Seeking opinions on my project

[Green Beam]

Hello all,

I live in a two family built in 1910, that has a large studio rental sitting over a crawl space. I'm attempting to renovate the bathroom and could use some advice. I originally planned to go with a walk-in shower and purchased two sheets of 3/4" ply to cover the joists. I have since ditched that idea and will be installing a tub. My original tub was approximately 66" long, cast iron set in mortar with a ledger. I measure around 67" stud to stud. I chiseled the mortar down so the plywood could rest against the joists (I was thinking walk-in shower at this point). I plan to install 3/4" kerdi board to blend into the 3/4" plaster walls.

1. Since I already have the plywood, would it be a problem if I used it to rest the tub on? I'm not concerned about weight, just not sure if there's an issue I'm not considering. The two layers of ply would make the tub floor level with the untiled portion of the floor.

2. There was a piece of pipe loosely fitted between the waste/overflow & trap. It wasn't leaking, but is this 'loose' fitment normal? I would have to get a longer piece if I use the plywood. I do plan to buy a new waste/overflow.

3. Would you change the shower valve body since the walls are open? This wasn't leaking either, but it has some years on it. The toilet is a flushometer type, I plan to have a plumber change the pipe so I can install a new toilet, I would have them change the valve body also, if necessary.

All opinions welcome, thanks!

 

[Breplum]

Get rid of all galvanized pipe and replace with modern materials, either copper or PEX.
You are not allowed to have wood like that with soil underfloor any more. You said it is over a crawl space, but I am not aware of what that gravel fill is. From what I see, it must be all torn out and a slab poured.
Dig out the drain down to the p-trap, replace the trap and upgrade now while you have a chance.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

To me it looks like they filled in the joist bays with mortar to lay tile with wood slats under the joists. But hard to say. The galvanzied should all be replaced as Breplumb mentions. The drain should be replaced with new and should in no way be loose. How you install your tub will depend on the type of tub and the installation instructions. Most tubs need support under the base, but steel tubs generally don't. The shower valve looks like its a Delta Universal valve which you can get new trim and cartridge sets for. But that steel pipe should be replaced as far as you can or at least into a location where you can access it without opening walls again.

 

[wwhitney]

I plan to install 3/4" kerdi board to blend into the 3/4" plaster walls.

A small note on this point: the new tub should have a tiling flange around the perimeter, and it's best practice that the tilling substrate lap over the tiling flange. So you'd be better off furring out the studs 1/4" for the thickness for the tiling flange, and then using regular 1/2" kerdiboard. I guess with 3/4" kerdiboard you could try rabbetting the outer bottom corner for the tile flange, but furring is probably easier.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Green Beam]

Get rid of all galvanized pipe and replace with modern materials, either copper or PEX.
You are not allowed to have wood like that with soil underfloor any more. You said it is over a crawl space, but I am not aware of what that gravel fill is. From what I see, it must be all torn out and a slab poured.
Dig out the drain down to the p-trap, replace the trap and upgrade now while you have a chance.

Ok, I'll get rid of the galvanized as mentioned. I'll hire this part out, since I work to slow & this is an unoccupied rental unit. I'm confused when you say I'm not allowed to have wood like that with soil underfloor? And are you thinking a slab needs to be poured where the tub will be? I believe the gravel fill you mention is debris from the mud wall I broke down plus the mortar used to support the tub. They only used mortar on the side close to the tiled floor, the side of the tub which was supported by a ledger had no mortar beneath it.

A small note on this point: the new tub should have a tiling flange around the perimeter, and it's best practice that the tilling substrate lap over the tiling flange. So you'd be better off furring out the studs 1/4" for the thickness for the tiling flange, and then using regular 1/2" kerdiboard. I guess with 3/4" kerdiboard you could try rabbetting the outer bottom corner for the tile flange, but furring is probably easier.

Cheers, Wayne

I have seen videos regarding the tiling substrate over lapping the tile flange of the tub. Thank you. I already purchased 3/4" kerdiboard, but I can return it for 1/2" if it'll make the install easier.

 

[wwhitney]

I'm confused when you say I'm not allowed to have wood like that with soil underfloor?

I think breplum misinterpreted the picture as showing soil between the joists, but it's actually a recessed mud bed.

I have seen videos regarding the tiling substrate over lapping the tile flange of the tub. Thank you. I already purchased 3/4" kerdiboard, but I can return it for 1/2" if it'll make the install easier.

I haven't worked with the material, so I'm not sure if rabbeting the rear bottom corner is feasible or not. If it is, that would seem simpler at this point that returning the 3/4" material and getting 1/2" material and shim stock. Also depends a bit on the size of the tile flange of your tub.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Green Beam]

I think breplum misinterpreted the picture as showing soil between the joists, but it's actually a recessed mud bed.


I haven't worked with the material, so I'm not sure if rabbeting the rear bottom corner is feasible or not. If it is, that would seem simpler at this point that returning the 3/4" material and getting 1/2" material and shim stock. Also depends a bit on the size of the tile flange of your tub.

Cheers, Wayne

I understand. Sounds like I should have bought the kerdiboard after the tub was installed to know what I was dealing with. I'll probably keep the kerdiboard I have since kerdiboard can be installed above the tub flange as well, although I do see the benefit of the board being over the flange! Do you think I should install two layers of 3/4" plywood to install the tub on? This would bring the tub floor level with the untiled portion of the floor.

I had a plumber come by yesterday & he quoted me $5K to replace the bathrooms galvanized with PVC & copper. This includes the bathrooms waste lines in the crawl space & installing the tub & fixtures. He would not be doing the walls. How does this price compare to your locations?

 

[Jadnashua]

It's fairly easy to put a rabbit joint on the bottom of the KerdiBoard. A straight-edge and a sharp utility knife works, and if you have a table saw with a dado head, you can cut it that way, too.

If you really have 67" stud to stud, had you considered getting a 66" tub? It'll cost you a bit more, and as a rental, you may not want to spend that, but if someone taller rents the space, that extra 6" tub length (they generally are available in 6" increments from 60" and up) can make actually taking a soak so much nicer!

Assuming as a rental you'll be getting a permit and inspection, the tub/shower valve must have anti-scald tech built in. I can't tell for sure, but I do not think that valve in the wall now has that (began to be required in the mid-80's). And, as a landlord, you don't want to have one without the current code's requirements.