Securing supply pipe to the wall

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Riker1384

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On one of our toilets, the supply pipe slides in and out of the drywall. I worry this might fatigue or break it sometime. There's a (rusted) chrome-type cover that hides the hole in the wall. This also slides, up and down the pipe. What should I use to hold these in place?
 

Jadnashua

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Normally, a clamp is used in the wall to attach the pipe so it is stable. But, since a toilet valve is rarely used, fatigue is not usually a problem.
 

Riker1384

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jadnashua said:
Normally, a clamp is used in the wall to attach the pipe so it is stable. But, since a toilet valve is rarely used, fatigue is not usually a problem.
Can it be installed when the pipe is already in and the hole is small? There's a space under it, smaller than the pipe. I guess I could cut it out bigger though if I had to.
 

Cass

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You may cut the wall only to find there is no place to attatch it to that is close by. I wouldn't worry about it as long as your not going to be swinging on it. :)
 

Riker1384

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Here's another question: it's an American Standard Chamion and I have to replace the flush tower. The stop valve won't close so that I can work on the toilet. I'm not sure what the different types of valves look like, but it has hex shapes for a wrench at the front and back of the valve.

Is the loose pipe going to be a problem when the valve is replaced, and is it something I should try myself?
 

Verdeboy

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riker1384 said:
On one of our toilets, the supply pipe slides in and out of the drywall. I worry this might fatigue or break it sometime. There's a (rusted) chrome-type cover that hides the hole in the wall. This also slides, up and down the pipe. What should I use to hold these in place?

I'm having the exact same problem with my shower arm in my shower. Since I don't have access from behind, I'm thinking of wedging a home-made shim in there to keep it from moving around. If that doesn't work, I just might fill the excess space with caulk--and let my slumlords deal with it if they ever have to get in there.

As for the chrome cover, you can remove the rust with some WD-40 and a green scrub pad. Then, you can keep it from moving around by wrapping some electrical tape on the pipe to increase the pipe diameter. Then push the cover over the tape and it should stay in place.

As for replacing the stop valve on a loose pipe, it's always a good idea to use a second wrench (sometimes called a counter-wrench) to hold the valve steady on the other side of the nut you are loosening. That should not be a problem at all.
 
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Jadnashua

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If the hex part looks like a nut, then it is probably a compression fitting, if it is cast into the body of the thing, then it is a screw on valve. If it is a compression fitting, you use one wrench to hold the valve, then unscrew the compression nut. There should be no appreciable torque on the pipe, so no problem.

If it is a screw on valve, then you should try to support the pipe with a wrench or pipe wrench or something, then use another one to unscrew the valve.

What kind of pipe is this attached to?
 

Mikey

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If it is a compression fitting connecting the stop valve to the supply, you might be able to install a new valve without removing the old ferrule and nut, which can be a major problem.
 
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