Securing horizontal pipe in the basement not near joists

[sschoe2]

So I finally gave up on salvaging the hot old gate valve on my washing machine and ended up cutting out both valves repiping it with copper and a new WM ball vallve. I now can't figure out how to secure it. There is a very heavy duty sturdy gas and a sump pipe. My only idea is use 3 heavy duty cable ties one on each pipe and one connecting the two and do a few of those. Right now I have some copper wire as that is all I had at 9pm on a Saturday night. I saw some threaded rings that attach to masonry wall but they are $35 each and I'd need several so cost prohibitive. Any suggestions?

OLD



NEW

 

[Themp]

I would have run the new copper pipe along that ledge that the old pipe was on. Not sure how you did the sink connection, but that could have been cleaned up so it looks better than the old way that ran up in the window area. They make very cheap copper tube straps that you could have attached to the cement block. You do want some separation on the pipes so the hot does not affect the cold. Maybe run the hot water line above the cold.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories-Pipe-Hangers/Copper/N-5yc1vZbqjcZ1z0vifv

If you leave it as is, why not use a 2x4 in the corner attached to the wall and then attach the pipe to that. And do a similar support for the valve at the washer. The run from the corner to the sink seems to be quite far from the wall. Again you could do some wood supports attached to the wall.

I would not go down the cable tie route...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Michael Young]

6" cuts of 2x4 lumber attached to the block wall using tapcons and liquid nails. Support every 4 feet
Use talons to secure the copper to the wood blocks. Or better, insulate the pipe and use rolled strapping to secure

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

As above, but get the washing machine block supported, then support the elbows and another near the laundry sink. You definately want to reduce the stress on the fittings, especially as the washer adds vibration to the system.

 

[TheOverThinker]

Definitely go with insulating the hot pipe, or both. The rubber pipe insulation with cement works best, rather than the regular self stick foam version,

Then use plumber's tape or a large 2" two hole strap, and tapcon screws. If the gap is too big, tapcon a bit of redwood to the cinder blocks first, then the insulated pipe.