Second water heater install

[MTy]

No they don't say that at all. The specs say it requires a minimum of 700 CUBIC feet (, say, 10' x 10' x 7'), preferably in a semi-conditioned space.....

Thanks Dana! That is incredibly helpful info. I definitely misread the specs. Although I knew the heat pumps had a min operating temp before switching to electric, I did not realize there was a max operating temperature.

Today was a good old fashioned scorcher with mid-upper 90s and 110 heat index. Above average temps. So good day for attic tempt test. Heat gun showed 120-140 depending on where I pointed it with 125 in the area of where the heater will be. Cheap weather thermometer placed on top of the current heater where the new one will also be registered 116.

Our January average low is 32 and average high is 50. Average low in Feburay and December is 36 with Highs in the mid 50s.

So with the Rheem I'm looking at that has confirmed specs of 37-145 operating temps, it should be most of the year on heat pump mode except for some days and nights during the winter.

It is my understanding from your post that even though an ice plug might melt before it gets warm enough for the heat pump to be within temp range, there is a possibility under the right conditions that the ice plug could get large enough that it wouldn't melt in time to drain condensate?

If I can't run it outside and a pump won't work I MIGHT be able to run 3/4 pipe down my wet wall(only 1ft. away) so that I can drain the condensate into the guest vanity. I wish the wall behind the guest bath was still open or I had considered the heat pump heater when it was open. Then it would be easy to run the piping. The guest vanity has some holes already in it from plumbing work that was done before I bought the house. Won't be hard to remove the panels I covered them with.

I'm beginning to think that the best thing to do, if I can, is to tie the condensate line into the vanity trap by running it down the wet wall?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks Dana! That is incredibly helpful info. I definitely misread the specs. Although I knew the heat pumps had a min operating temp before switching to electric, I did not realize there was a max operating temperature.
Never used a heat pump water heater but glad you checked your instruction book kinda wondered about the square footage being a factor . read it over real good if your going to proceed even contact manufacture

Today was a good old fashioned scorcher with mid-upper 90s and 110 heat index. Above average temps. So good day for attic tempt test. Heat gun showed 120-140 depending on where I pointed it with 125 in the area of where the heater will be. Cheap weather thermometer placed on top of the current heater where the new one will also be registered 116.

Our January average low is 32 and average high is 50. Average low in Feburay and December is 36 with Highs in the mid 50s.

So with the Rheem I'm looking at that has confirmed specs of 37-145 operating temps, it should be most of the year on heat pump mode except for some days and nights during the winter.

It is my understanding from your post that even though an ice plug might melt before it gets warm enough for the heat pump to be within temp range, there is a possibility under the right conditions that the ice plug could get large enough that it wouldn't melt in time to drain condensate?

If I can't run it outside and a pump won't work I MIGHT be able to run 3/4 pipe down my wet wall(only 1ft. away) so that I can drain the condensate into the guest vanity. I wish the wall behind the guest bath was still open or I had considered the heat pump heater when it was open. Then it would be easy to run the piping. The guest vanity has some holes already in it from plumbing work that was done before I bought the house. Won't be hard to remove the panels I covered them with.

I'm beginning to think that the best thing to do, if I can, is to tie the condensate line into the vanity trap by running it down the wet wall?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ncgeo]

Late last year I purchased a Rheem Proterra from HD. 2 things to note:

1. Often HD will run a region-specific sale on them, and through some magic with entering a qualifying zip code and then changing on checkout you will also get the sale price. Look on slickdeals for details of the magic. I managed to get the 50 gal heater for $799 this way.

2. A heat pump water heater qualifies for the Non-Business Energy Property Tax Credit (maximum $300) if you have not previously used this credit. So that brought the price down to $499

it’s a real no-brainer without evening considering the significant operating savings!

 

[MTy]

Late last year I purchased a Rheem Proterra from HD. 2 things to note:

1. Often HD will run a region-specific sale on them, and through some magic with entering a qualifying zip code and then changing on checkout you will also get the sale price. Look on slickdeals for details of the magic. I managed to get the 50 gal heater for $799 this way.

2. A heat pump water heater qualifies for the Non-Business Energy Property Tax Credit (maximum $300) if you have not previously used this credit. So that brought the price down to $499

it’s a real no-brainer without evening considering the significant operating savings!

Thanks for the tip. I need the 65 gallon one. Hopefully I can find it on sale. I've got some time.

Yea even if I factor in 50% less efficient than the energy guide claims I'm still saving good money over the life the heater over gas or electric only. I just need to figure this condensate line out.

 

[MTy]

Just picked up the Rheem Performance Platinum 65 gallon hybrid water heater for 300 off at Homers. With the tax credit factored in I got a bargain. A few things...

1. My current plan for the condensate is to tee into my drip pan's drain line about 1-2 feet before it goes through the wall to drain outside. I'm not too worried about a freeze plug at this point because our temps are usually mild and even if we get a vortex the heater will likely be in electric mode or I can switch it over.

In the future I will run the line through the other side of the attic and down the wall and connect it into my washer stand pipe. I need to replace my my washer shutoffs anyways so I can do both.

2. I am also installing an expansion tank and thermostatic mixing valve. My local codes don't allow flexibile tubing so it looks like no corrugated copper. Given the above and aside from the copper pipe and joints needed what do I need in the way of unions? Anything else specific to a water heater?

3. Lastly, it appears the Honeywell mixing valve has become hard to find. Watts makes one and it looks like supplyhouse has one that looks like the Honeywell but made by Ruud. One better than the other?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Tell you the truth often I forego the unions . As I never seem to be able to install a water heater with out breaking out torch and solder. and 99 percent don't put union on the T&P line either. We are suppose to have unions though, BTW my code requires a flexible connector (earthquakes)
No opinion on the Ruud Valve

 

[MTy]

Tell you the truth often I forego the unions . As I never seem to be able to install a water heater with out breaking out torch and solder. and 99 percent don't put union on the T&P line either. We are suppose to have unions though, BTW my code requires a flexible connector (earthquakes)
No opinion on the Ruud Valve

I'll have to break out the torch regardless. Interesting I'm in an earthquake area as well although nowhere near as active as the west coast. It's been over 200 years since the last big one. After hearing that I double checked the local amendments to be sure I hadn't read them wrong. Definitely says Ridgid connections only.

 

[Reach4]

After hearing that I double checked the local amendments to be sure I hadn't read them wrong. Definitely says Ridgid connections only.

I wonder if soft copper would be permitted. What is the actual wording?

 

[MTy]

I wonder if soft copper would be permitted. What is the actual wording?

503.3 Water connections to water heaters. All water connections to water heaters shall be
made with rigid pipe. No flexible connectors may be used.

My interpretation is that would exclude soft copper. Not a big deal really since I am going to have to do a decent amount of soldering anyways. Current heater has the cold and hot on the top. New one has them on the sides with cold on bottom.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Soft copper not allowed even for T&P connection. don't know why not because I've seen clean bends around the w/h look pretty clean with out swing joints or excessive fittings . but pretty sure its always been illegal here.
I made previous statement that a flex connector was required here on water but its not mandatory .

 

[MTy]

Soft copper not allowed even for T&P connection. don't know why not because I've seen clean bends around the w/h look pretty clean with out swing joints or excessive fittings . but pretty sure its always been illegal here.
I made previous statement that a flex connector was required here on water but its not mandatory .

Not certain but I suspect that the concern was things like PEX and braided lines. To simply things they just said nothing flexible.