Same lady from ballcock with yet another question....

[madonetwo]

Ok, we got the new ballcock in place, supply line and cut off valve are all working but we have a new problem. There are two bolt/nut things that hold the tank to the toilet base. One of those is gone leaving a hole in the bottom of the tank. We need to replace these items. Our brand of toilet is a universal somethingorother. Is there a standard size bolt/washer/nut that fits all toilet tanks? I am almost........ALMOST....ready to call a plumber and get a new toilet. But I really hate to give up now.

 

[Terry]

Universal Rundle takes standard tank to bowl bolts. Any hardware store will carry them.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MACPLUMB]

Put the rubber washer under the head I
Always put a little bit of Plumbers putty
Under the washer the use the square headed
Nut and metal washer to tighten to tank
Reinstall tank using the last washers and finger nuts anchor to the bowl

 

[Terry]

I never use putty on a tank to bowl rubber gasket.

I do like a washer and nut under the tank though.

 

[madonetwo]

Ok, let me see if I have this right. I now have to disconnect the supply line to the ballcock, take the tank completely off and install both of the screw/nut/bolt units even though one of them is ok? I can't just do the one the is missing? I have to do something like the upside down tank shown above? OMG......just let me have a root canal.....it's much less painful!!! I could have built a dang toilet from clay by now. (Thanks, guys!)

 

[Reach4]

I am almost........ALMOST....ready to call a plumber and get a new toilet. But I really hate to give up now.

Yeah, that is the problem... you feel you have a significant investment in effort and money that you don't want to walk away from.

Normally you would not put in a new ballcock, unless this was a vintage/collectible toilet, or it was memorabilia for you. The replacement fill valves are simpler and cheaper, and I think they typically mount in the same hole in the bottom of the tank. I could be wrong of course. I am not a plumber.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Ok, let me see if I have this right. I now have to disconnect the supply line to the ballcock, take the tank completely off and install both of the screw/nut/bolt units even though one of them is ok? I can't just do the one the is missing? I have to do something like the upside down tank shown above? OMG......just let me have a root canal.....it's much less painful!!! I could have built a dang toilet from clay by now. (Thanks, guys!)

Note that a "fill valve" is the modern replacement for a "ballcock". They do the same job.

Sure you could just replace the one bolt now - but changes are that the other bolt is pretty close to failure too. It would be a shame to replace the missing bolt then have the other bolt leak or fail next year.

You don't need to remove the tank (like in Terry's picture) but it's not a lot of work (just one bolt remaining) and then you can replace the tank to bowl seal too. You can get a kit that has the bolts, the seal, and a new "flush" valve for around $20. Such as https://www.lowes.com/pd/Korky-Flush-Valve/3158681 Might as well do everything now since your halfway there.

 

[Dj2]

One more thing to add here:

If you run to the store to buy those tank-to-bowl nuts and bolts, make sure to get BRASS nuts and bolts only.

 

[madonetwo]

Yes, thanks, I got the brass set. We are not leaking!!!!. The new ballcock is in place with a new supply line....however, there is a slow leak. I suspect it's at the flapper. I first thought that the float wasn't coming up high enough to cut off the water as it filled up. There are some brass screws on the top of the ballcock: one in the center in about 3 around the perimeter. How do you use these to make adjustments? Thank you to everyone who's helped us. We at least can flush, then cut off the water.......a GREAT improvement over going downstairs. Ha.

 

[Jadnashua]

A few things to check if the tank is leaking past the flapper valve.

First, make sure that is it by letting it fill, then shut the water off. If the level drops to the point where the flapper seals, it's almost certainly the flapper. If it stops higher, come back, you have a different problem.

Second, with the flapper up, feel around the seal on the tank to make sure it is smooth.

Third, make sure that there is at least a little slack between the chain and the flapper when it is down...then, also make sure that the chain cannot hang down and get underneath the flapper.

Fourth, depending on your toilet, it will either use a ring, slid over the overflow tube to attach it OR have arms that snap over nubs...do NOT use both...cut the ring out if you have nubs.

Fifth, make sure that the flapper is not being caught when dropping and that it is not being pulled off kilter by the arm and chain.

Sixth...rarely, you'll end up with a defective flapper. It should not be warped or have nicks or blisters on the sealing surface.

 

[madonetwo]

Thanks, everyone. I believe the new flapper did the trick.......we are flushing without continuous water running.....and are the proud owners of a new ballcock and brass bolts holding the tank to the bowl.....what more could a person want that a newly renovated toilet? You folks were just wonderful to help us out.