RV outlet

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Wilson01

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I installed a 30 amp RV plug a few years ago and I never planned on running the air conditioner or the electric hot water tank. Now I want to be able to use the AC but I only ran 10/2 wire and the voltage drops to 105 volts. The run is 135 feet from my panel box so I was going to run 6 awg copper thhn wire. My question is can I run a single strand of #6 and use the neutral and ground of the 10/2 I have run already ? Or does the neutral need to be the same size ? (The 30 amp for the RV isn’t 220v it’s only 110v)
Thanks for any help
 

Stuff

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Assuming you have 120 volts at your panel getting that much voltage drop means you are either drawing more than 30 amps or have some bad connections. Possibly old a/c is drawing too much power. If you don't have 120 volts at your panel then check with your utility. 220/110 is out of date. Current standards are 240/120.

No you can not add an external wire. All conductors need to be in the same cable sheath or conduit.
 

JerryR

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Neutral will carry the same current as the hot on a 120v circuit so IT MUST be upsized.

Wire size calculator estimates with a 120v single phase run of 135 ft 6AWG THHN will give you a 4 volt drop at 30 amps which is fine.

I regularly hooked up my RV to a friends 30a/120v RV outlet at his barn when visiting him. He also ran #10 probably 150+ feet. The voltage would drop below 105 when my AC would kick on and my EMS would shut down the power to my RV. I bought him a Hughes Autoformer to plug into the outlet and it allowed me to run the AC and if I remember correctly voltage only dropped to 112v with the AutoFormer. Even with the Autoformer, while I ran the AC I ran my water heater on propane to limit the RV load.
https://tweetys.com/hughes-autoformer-rv2130sp---30-amp-autoformer-w-surge-protection.aspx

The Autoformer will automatically boost voltage up to 10% only when needed.
 

Wilson01

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Well I checked the voltage at the outlet for my camper and it’s 112v. I pulled my panel cover off and checked it right at the breaker and it’s 115v so I opened my meter pan and checked it right from the pole and I’m getting 116v on one leg and 117v on the other. Between both legs I’m getting 230v. Forgot to mention I checked the voltage with my 15,000 btu air conditioner on(house ac not RV) and at my 30 amp breaker for my RV the voltage was 114 and the main breaker was 115v and 116v. Does that seem low ?
 
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WorthFlorida

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No, as long it is not below 110v normally. In NYC 110v's was the norm at one time. It's why you hear 110v circuit or 220v.

All alternating current motors will draw more current at lower voltages. If the voltage getS too low, like 90v under load, the motor will draw more current and start to over heat.
 

wwhitney

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Neutral will carry the same current as the hot on a 120v circuit so IT MUST be upsized.
Not really. For a 120V circuit, the neutral and the ungrounded conductor just need to be protected by the breaker. So for a 30A circuit, they both need to be #10 copper or bigger. If you were pulling individual wires in conduit, and you ran out of #10, you could substitute a #8 or a #6 for one of the circuit conductors. You'd get half the reduction in voltage drop as if you upsized both wires. If you upsize the ungrounded conductor, then you are required to upsize the EGC proportionately, 250.122(B).

I only ran 10/2 wire and the voltage drops to 105 volts. The run is 135 feet from my panel box so I was going to run 6 awg copper thhn wire.
10/2 sounds like a cable type wiring method such as NM (Romex) cable. Individual conductors like THHN can not be run unprotected, they are only for use in a conduit wiring method. So unless you have conduit installed, you can't just add one more THHN wire.

Also, you have a technical violation if you replace your 10/2 Romex with 8/2 or 6/2 Romex, as those both come with a #10 EGC. But when you upsize for voltage drop, you are supposed to upsize the EGC as well. So you could use something like Al 6-6 (or 4-4) SEU with #6 (or #4) ground.

The downside there is the receptacle and breaker lugs may not take that large a wire. In which case you'd need to pigtail short sections of copper wire to the aluminium wire, e.g. using Polaris style connectors. In fact, if you have space to set a junction box at each end, the easiest way to do it would just be to leave short pieces of the existing 10/2 NM at each end, and use the junction boxes to splice over to the larger wire size.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Wilson01

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I do have conduit run from my house to the pedestal with the 30 amp outlet. Inside my house I have the wire secured to the floor joist to the panel. Inside the house is 65 feet and from outside to the the pedestal is another 65-70 feet. I can run the other 65’ inside the house in conduit and use three #6 copper thhn ? The outlet should definitely allow a #6 wire but I’ll have to check the breaker. I thought I read somewhere that as long as it’s a 30 amp 120v circuit I can upsize the hot and neutral wire and still use the #10 ground rated for 30 amp ? Just trying to clarify not questioning anyone’s replies. Thanks for the help
 

wwhitney

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I do have conduit run from my house to the pedestal with the 30 amp outlet. Inside my house I have the wire secured to the floor joist to the panel. Inside the house is 65 feet and from outside to the the pedestal is another 65-70 feet. I can run the other 65’ inside the house in conduit and use three #6 copper thhn ?
Yes, although since the conduit runs outside, you'll need to use THWN (or THWN-2). Almost all THHN is also marked THWN, just double check. Conduit systems are limited to 360 degrees of bend between pull points, so you may need to add a C-condulet or other pull point somewhere in there.

I thought I read somewhere that as long as it’s a 30 amp 120v circuit I can upsize the hot and neutral wire and still use the #10 ground rated for 30 amp ?
That would not comply with NEC 250.122(B), which is perhaps a stupid requirement but it's there.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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