Rusted and Leaking Top Well Casing

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by JRC3, Oct 2, 2018.

  1. JRC3

    JRC3 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Location:
    S.W. Ohio
    Hey, guys...

    I noticed this thing looked a little sketchy a year or so ago and I decided to put the hose on it and sure enough it's leaking. I dug it last weekend and have confirmed the problem.

    I have a few questions.

    1. They did not have the 2 wire 230v pump grounded, could that cause the casing to rust or the pump to work harder? Not really important, but I am curious.

    2. Should I replace the down pipe? I think it's black poly with the silver strip like what's coming out of the pitless. If replace, what should I use? https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...085-c-8570.htm?tid=107851993523426455&ipos=10 or https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...20-c-8570.htm?tid=-2473861120355006986&ipos=8

    3. Should I replace the pump cable? Or if there are no abrasions or cuts should I not worry?

    4. Am I on track with the replacement casing and coupler? I was just gonna use a shielded Fernco coupler but I know Ohio wants a Dresser type. That and if I'm still here I don't want to worry about it in 20 years in my late 60s or so.

    5. What is the best way to cut below the weld into the good casing? I imagine an angle grinder. Maybe that almost all the way through, and then a recip saw.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. JRC3

    JRC3 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Location:
    S.W. Ohio
    Talked to the next door neighbor who still knows both the last owners and she asked and the pump was probably done in the early 90s. That doesn't mean it wasn't done after that considering it had a 20G PT and a 10G (old one sitting next to it) before that.

    Dropped a string with some chain today. Hit water at 35' below the pitles. Hit the top of the pump or a torque arrestor or cable guard at 53'. Hit the bottom at 66'. Pulled back up and hit the bottom of the pump at 57'. I really confirmed and got a good feel on all these measurements.
     

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  4. JRC3

    JRC3 Member

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Location:
    S.W. Ohio
    Parts: Below.

    I cheaped out on the pump. I want to see what's down there and maybe have it serviced for future use. I'm also one person in the house with a CSV and figure this pump should last at least 5 years.


    Old groundhog burrow right next to casing...Little bastard ched the feed wire so I'll run new.
     

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  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    No.
    The SIDR 160 PSI. Use 2 stainless steel worm gear couplings on each barb, with the worms on opposite sides. Use brass or stainless steel barbed fittings for the connections taking the weight.
    I would probably keep it.

    Ohio is OK with a Dresser coupling? I would have thought they would want welding.

    I don't know. With whatever you use, I think you want to pull up as you finish the cut.

    Are you thinking a 1/2 HP 7 gpm pump, or 1/2 hp 10 gpm pump? Ahh... I see the 10 in your picture.

    I am not a pro.
     
  6. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    A dresser is better than a Fernco. But welding a new piece of steel would be best. I would clean that wire up, tape it and reuse it.
     
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