Running water supply line outside pole building going under ground in freezing climate

[TurboMan]

Live in the Chicago suburbs and need to run a copper water supply line which needs to be on year round. Only option is to go through the wall to outside and then go directly underground. Once underground a few feet plan to convert to PEX. Pole building is kept comfortable year round so the pipe is safe inside the building but how do you protect the pipe from freezing once it is outside the pole building and the first few feet underground? I know they sell the black foam insulation but is that enough for a pipe directly exposed to the elements?

 

[WorthFlorida]

You'll probably need to build an insulated box around the pipe to the building and use heat tape for heat. Better off with heat tape, some have build in thermostat. You only need to keep it above 32º, maybe around 40º. With sever cold days, running the water very slowly will also minimize freezing.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Can you go down through the floor, and then keep the underground pipe below the frost line? Check your county info for their number. Kane, for example, says 42 inches.

So drill concrete. Undermine concrete from outdoors, and run pipe thru trench and up.

 

[Terry]

Pipe insulation doesn't do enough. If it's below freezing outside, the insulation also gets cold. I like the heat box. Heating the pipe, and then preventing the cold near it.

 

[TurboMan]

Revisiting this. Want to be ready for spring. Existing pole barn has radiant heat tubes in the concrete floor. Wanted to run the new pipes (water, electric, and communication) all in the same run. How close to the edge of the slab are radiant tubes typically? From images I have seen they are a few feet away from the edge of the slab. If true I would be able to drill holes INSIDE the existing pole barn against the wall without fear of drilling into a radiant heat tube. Walls are 9 inches thick so new pipes would be 9 inches from the edge of the slab. I would go straight down to 44" and then use a sweeping 90 to go horizontal. From my research that would protect the water pipe from freezing. I could still wrap the water pipes with insulation for the first 3 feet or so down. Would like to avoid the heat strips if possible. Does this sound correct?

Inside the barn I plan on putting a concrete walkway as well as one of the stalls with concrete to use as an office / tack room. Was planning on bringing the pipes up in the office wall where the concrete walkway meets the concrete office. So the water pipe would have at least 5 ft of concrete all the way around. Would that be enough to protect the pipe from freezing?

 

[DKH53]

I don't know about Illinois but here in Maryland the Home Depot rents thermal cameras. Turn the heat up high for a few minutes and you will see exactly where the radiant tubing is with the thermal camera. Some home inspectors and many places that do "home energy audits" would likely give you the same pictures but you'll have to pay for their time.

 

[John Gayewski]

Radiant tube doesn't have a standard distance. You put it where it won't be in the way for the walls.

If you need to locate tubing you can turn the heat up and mop the floor. Or the thermal camera.