Running new supply line under parking area

[John-Charleston]

I have a rental and tree roots have broken the supply line 2x now. I want to run a new line from the meter but it pretty much needs to cross a 23' asphalt parking area. I've read about these kits that people seem to have good success with (based on Amazon reviews) has anyone ever tried something like this or do the pro's have an industrial version?

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Sprink...ocphy=9010496&hvtargid=pla-520924634820&psc=1

The option is to cut the asphalt and I'd like to avoid that if possible.

 

[Jadziedzic]

Search for "directional boring" companies in your area, or check with irrigation companies in your area. The Orbit tunnel gadget is best suited for short distances, like under sidewalks. (There's also the question as to whether the gadget would undermine your parking area and cause a depression or cave-in of the asphalt.)

 

[Sponsor]

 

[John-Charleston]

Search for "directional boring" companies in your area, or check with irrigation companies in your area. The Orbit tunnel gadget is best suited for short distances, like under sidewalks. (There's also the question as to whether the gadget would undermine your parking area and cause a depression or cave-in of the asphalt.)

I was afraid that was going to be the answer. I'm imagining they're pretty expensive and I'd probably rather do a cut. I might experiment with the Orbit concept and see how it goes.

 

[James Henry]

Jadziedzic has hit on some good points. I think also that if you use the orbit their is no way to properly compact the dirt after you run the new line and considering that you will be driving over it makes me imagine the asphalt will eventually sink in possibly damage the pipe. an option I would consider is to cut a slit in the asphalt just large enough to drop a pipe in then you can properly back fill everything.

 

[John-Charleston]

Jadziedzic has hit on some good points. I think also that if you use the orbit their is no way to properly compact the dirt after you run the new line and considering that you will be driving over it makes me imagine the asphalt will eventually sink in possibly damage the pipe. an option I would consider is to cut a slit in the asphalt just large enough to drop a pipe in then you can properly back fill everything.

Yeah his points are well taken. We have no natural rocks here (Charleston, SC) but there might be construction debris under the parking area. Otherwise I would expect it to go through fairly easily. I thought if I do cut the asphalt, I'd only cut it wide enough to drop a run of 1" PVC and then run the 3/4" PEX through that to make it all stronger/more protected. Sound like a good idea?
Before family matters called me out of town for a week I had called 4 plumbers. 1 never called back, 1 was 3+ weeks out, another was laid up with a broken foot and the 4th was supposed to take a look last Monday (while I was out of town) but I never heard back from him. I ended up running the temporary line myself before I left.

 

[James Henry]

I thought if I do cut the asphalt, I'd only cut it wide enough to drop a run of 1" pvc and then run the 3/4" pex through that to make it all stronger/more protected. Sound like a good idea?

Sounds like a very good idea. Also look for alternative paths to reroute the water line that may be less destructive.

 

[Terry]

I have rented a mole before and used that to put pipes under driveways. It was an air impact hose that hammered it's way through.

And here is a thread about work like this. I saw these guys working and took some pictures.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ice-sewer-line-repair-outdoor-plumbing.73835/

 

[John-Charleston]

Sounds like a very good idea. Also look for for alternative paths to reroute the water line that may be less destructive.

Oh of course I've tried to think of an easier route but it would mean cutting through a lot of that tree's roots which not only might hurt the tree but would also put the new pipe right in the midst of the root system again. The tree is too close to the road so there's not enough room to go around it.

Another question... I used one of those Sharkbite push fittings when I ran the temporary line (copper to PEX). It's a bear to get down in there partly due to roots near the meter as well. I know Sharkbite co says it's ok to put them underground as long as they're protected by their "waterproof" tape. Opinions on that? Can I use something like the Orbit 20ml pipe wrap tape (which I think I already have) as well? Seems like it would provide the same function.

 

[Reach4]

I'd only cut it wide enough to drop a run of 1" pvc and then run the 3/4" pex through that to make it all stronger/more protected. Sound like a good idea?

3/4 inch PEX is undersized for water service for a house, I think.

 

[John-Charleston]

3/4 inch pex is undersized for water service for a house, I think.

That's what's there previously and it's a duplex with one meter actually. 2bdrm/1ba places and only one tenant in each. I've not had any complaints.

 

[Reach4]

That's what's there previously and

3/4 inch PEX??? Maybe steel, copper or PVC instead?

 

[John-Charleston]

Not PEX, but 3/4. Coming off the meter is copper. At one point there was a PVC repair but I think it's copper under the house. 3/4 id is 3/4 no matter the material though, right?

 

[John-Charleston]

There was actually some polybutylene with plastic fittings under the building when I bought it. The 3/4" line that carried the supply to the rear unit. I replaced that with PEX early on.

 

[Reach4]

3/4 id is 3/4 no matter the material though, right?

No.

PEX ID: 0.681

Type L copper: 0.785

PVC schedule 40: 0.804

 

[John-Charleston]

No.

PEX ID: 0.681

Type L copper: 0.785

PVC schedule 40: 0.804

Really? PVC is almost 20% bigger than PEX?

 

[James Henry]

I know Sharkbite co says it's ok to put them underground as long as they're protected by their "waterproof" tape. Opinions on that? Can I use something like the Orbit 20ml pipe wrap tape (which I think I already have) as well? Seems like it would provide the same function.

It wouldn't be wise for me to suggest anything other than the manufacturers recommendations. I would read the SharkBite warranty literature.

 

[John-Charleston]

So looking this up I find that you're right about the dimensions but I also see this from a fine homebuilding discussion:

"Having recentely spent several weeks researching PEX for an upcoming article in FHB, I can answer a couple of your questions. First, PEX, like CPVC, comes in the same ODs as copper pipe. So, your intuition about the ID is correct. Except....PEX is smoother and has fewer fittings, so the codes accept PEX on a size for size basis with copper. If you can use 1/2 in. copper, you can use 1/2 in. PEX and expect the same or a better flow. In fact, you can often drop a size with PEX, although the savings are minimal and I wouldn't bother. Except.... You'd have to flush far less cooled water out of a 3/8 in. PEX line than any 1/2 in. line if you want hot water in your upstairs bathroom faster."

 

[John-Charleston]

Gone for the evening but thanks for all of the help!

 

[Terry]

For a new water service if you're doing PEX

1 bath home, 1" PEX
3 bath home, 1.25" PEX

PEX is a lot smaller than poly or PVC and when we plumb, it's noticeable.
Most jurisdictions want 1.25" PEX for a three bath home.

 

[Jeff H Young]

A duplex I wouldn't be going smaller than 1 inch . I'm guessing frost is no issue? I'd also sleeve it under the asphalt