Running a Washing Machine drain under slab

Users who are viewing this thread

datrik

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Hello there,
long time reader, first time poster.
I'm about to do something that my gut is telling me to check with you guys and gals first. I'm moving my front loading washing machine inside my slab foundation house to a place that has no immediate drain. The closest drain is a bathtub about 8 ft. away. The main sewer line on the exterior of the house is about 16 ft. away. I was thinking about using the waterjet method to bore a hole in the dirt and meet up with one of the drains I've mentioned.

I'd rather meet up with the main sewer line. Is 16 ft. too far for the water jet method? Is there another option that would be easier?

Can you all give your two cents on this? Any precautions I need to know about?

Thanks so much in advance! :D

Daniel
 

Kingsotall

Plunger/TurdPuncher
Messages
1,238
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
I've never even heard of "the water jet method" so I guess I should just stay out of this one.
You will need a vent and 2" standpipe with a trap.
 

datrik

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
wash away dirt?

yeah, I dont' know if this is leggit or not for interior plumbing. I've done this several times with outdoor landscaping pipe running under sidewalks/driveways. I don't plan on washing away too much dirt. Every other time I've done this in an outdoor setting, the amount of dirt displaced is not that substantial.

kingsotall, btw, a water jet is where you plug one side of the pipe and drill a few holes in the plug and attach a hose to the other end of the pipe. The water pressure from the spigot shooting out the tiny holes cuts through the dirt and allows you to push the pipe rather easily underneath the ground.

If you guys have never heard of this, what have you done instead?

Thank you,
Daniel
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
Cut the concrete out so you can trench and plumb the thing right. Even if you used your water jet to bore the hole, how are you going to get the pipe in the tunnel and then how are you going to keep it from sagging and making a low spot? You can hire a professional concrete company to cut the concrete or you can rent a saw that will do it. As already noted, you must use a 2" standpipe, a P trap, a vent, and tie into a sewer line that is at least 2".
 

TedL

New Member
Messages
602
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
NY Capital District
Consider whether draining into a "catch box" (I can't think of the right name) and pumping across the attic to the existing drain line might make more sense, price and disruption wise.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,600
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
water jet

Have you considered the fact, that if you are going to water jet a 12' distance, you need a 12' trench where you are jetting from for the jet pipe? If you intend to use short pieces glued together, there is no way you can be sure that they will make a straight pipe.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
Are you saying to start with a 3" standpipe then reduce it to 2" at the trap? That is contrary to the principal of never reducing a drain size.
 

Chris8796

New Member
Messages
100
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Illinois
I would cut the concrete, rather than trying to tunnel. Water jetting does not provide any control of pitch. Houses also have footings to work around. I've jetted plenty of sidewalks for irrigation, I couldn't imagine trying to go 16 ft with 2" schedule 40 under a slab house. I would be looking for a concrete cutter, preferably with a water-cooled hydraulic saw (no dust).
 

FloridaOrange

Plumbing Designer
Messages
1,298
Reaction score
2
Points
36
Location
SW Florida
Are you saying to start with a 3" standpipe then reduce it to 2" at the trap? That is contrary to the principal of never reducing a drain size.

Not to hijack the thread but:
It would be only reducing the drain size if you were to start with a 3" trap and then dump to a 2" standpipe.
FPC 2007 406.3 Waste Connection. The waste from an automatic clothes washer shall discharge through an air break into a standpipe in acordance with Section 802.4 or into a laundry sink. The trap and fixture drain for an automatic clothes washer standpipe shall be a minimum of 2 inches in diameter. The automatic clothes washer fixture drain shall connect to a branch drain or drainage stack a minimum of 3 in diameter. Automatic clothes washers that discharge by gravity shall be permited to drain to a waste receptor or approved trench drain.
The local AHJ interprets as a 3" up to trap, then a 2" trap (slab on grade).

End hijack.
 

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
OK, I misunderstood what you were saying. The 2" standpipe and 2" trap have to connect to a 3" or larger drain. I read it as the opposite.:D
 

datrik

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
sounds good

concrete saw it is. Thanks for all of your input. I'll have to tear up the floor, but I wanna do it right.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks