Routing new plumbing with Softener loop

[Bob from accounting]

I have been tearing out my ceiling to begin a remodel job in the garage.
Currently all my pipes hang down from my ceiling in the garage. Looking forward to tucking it up into the ceiling with new dry wall. I wanted to configure a loop for a water softener while I am at it. knock it all out at once.
Helping pre-visualize what I will need and where to run the pipes I put together some visual aids for myself. Inspired by some of the renders I saw on this forum a few days ago, thought it was helpful to see. It is not to scale and does not represent all the fittings, but it helps me wrap my head around it. I have been making a list from supply house while getting a since for the fitting that I will need.

Just wanted to get some feedback or suggestion on this configuration. I am sure I will update it, but for now seems like a starting point.

 

[Reach4]

City water and sewer?
Need drains for sink and softener.
Brine tank for softener is shorter and wider.

Most, but not all softeners have the inputs on the right as you face them, but flex lines can be crossed to do that in your diagram.

WH seems hard to change. Classic electric? Electric hybrid?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bob from accounting]

City water and sewer?
Need drains for sink and softener.
Brine tank for softener is shorter and wider.

Most, but not all softeners have the inputs on the right as you face them, but flex lines can be crossed to do that in your diagram.

WH seems hard to change. Classic electric? Electric hybrid?

WH, Brine tank and Softener are not to scale, but size discrepancy is noted thanks for the attention to detail. WH is gas, already in place and is on other side of wall, I added that in last minute so it is represented. This is more about the route of the copper piping and getting it right in my head and now on a diagram to visualize.
I too just read that the softener has it's drainage on the right, I will try to use an air gap near the sink or tie that into the sink, so crossing that down with some 1/2" poly might work? I bet can can figure something out with out kinking it?
I did not build out a diagram of the drainage yet as I have been just working out the the maze of copper pipes in my head.
I should work on drainage soon, thanks for the reminder. My Sink will be a Utility sink, this temp bathroom vanity seems to visually get the point across , you get the idea.
Thanks for the input.

 

[Reach4]

I too just read that the softener has it's drainage on the right, I will try to use an air gap near the sink or tie that into the sink, so crossing that down with some 1/2" poly might work? I bet can can figure something out with out kinking it?

I was referring to the main input and output of the softener. The drain is often done in flex.

One way to handle the softener drain is to discharge above the utility sink. Otherwise you would need a standpipe if routing the softener drain to the sewer.

Your concept looked good to me, other than I would probably add a sediment filter on my city water coming in. That is not common, and is not required. Did you ever see sand in a sink aerator? A sediment filter would have stopped that. They flush the lines maybe once per year. A sediment filter would stop solids that might be kicked up with that. A wye strainer would stop sand, but then a softener would probably stop sand too. A cartridge filter would stop smaller stuff. If a filter fails, such as an o-ring going bad as you change cartridges, you are out of water until you get that fixed. A 3-valve bypass would let you bypass that, or maybe you could figure an alternate for that. I just keep extra o-rings on hand.

 

[Bob from accounting]

A pre-filter is something I have considered. Yea it is city water. I am still on the fence on where to discharge the softener, utility sink or stand pipe. I have not gotten that far. My other thought was if I should run these pipes on the underside of the new ceiling or keep it run along the side of the wall. I know it is preference but keeping the pipes off the ceiling may be easier to install the dry wall on the ceiling. Maybe for now I will keep it routed against the wall. Does it matter how close these pipes are together?

 

[Bob from accounting]

Based on my configuration, maybe I should widen the Softener Loop so the pre filter is horizontal right before the Softener. Rather than vertical. Looking around on line and seems this is the way to go.

 

[Reach4]

Based on my configuration, maybe I should widen the Softener Loop so the pre filter is horizontal right before the Softener. Rather than vertical. Looking around on line and seems this is the way to go.

Interesting idea that you have: share the bypass.

From a space-saving point of view, the filter could go above the brine tank. However the sump can be heavy when full of water at arms length. Since this is city water, you won't need a 4.5 x 2o, so the weight can be light enough to reach for.

 

[Bob from accounting]

Interesting idea that you have: share the bypass.

From a space-saving point of view, the filter could go above the brine tank. However the sump can be heavy when full of water at arms length. Since this is city water, you won't need a 4.5 x 2o, so the weight can be light enough to reach for.

I updated and roughed this in now, pre-filter , new brine tank with soften drainage and main drainage. Not all to scale, you get it though. In regards to where to drain the Softener, looks like for 15$ I can run a secondary stand pipe up for the sink tailpipe. It could be a permanent drain line, instead of pulling the line it in and out of the sink. Plus the sound of that 1/4" drain line falling a foot down into the sink could be annoying at 2am.