Roughing in Brizo shower body and diverter

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GBruzze1

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hey guys,

First time posting here. I am a contractor in New York, but not a plumber. All my plumbing work is subbed out to a licensed master plumber. However, this job is for my own house, and am having difficulty getting my plumber to show up and finish the job. I have a baby coming in April, so I don't have much time to wait around for my plumber to have availability for me.

So here's my question, in case I have to resort to worst case scenario and rough this bathroom in myself...

I have a Brizo multi touch universal shower body. A Brizo 3 port diverter. Tub filler, shower head, and handheld sprayer. The tub filler is a non-diverter tub filled. So if I rough in the shower body with hot and cold coming in left and right, top outlet going to diverter, does bottom outlet go to tub filler? I'm confused because doesn't the shower body only control water on/off and temperature? Since the tub filled has no diverter to it, how will I control it so water only comes out of the tub filler when I want it to? I'm pretty sure the answer is no, but I wouldn't go shower body, to diverter, then to tub filler, right?

Any advice is appreciated. Like I said, I know a little plumbing, but just enough to be dangerous.

Thanks all

Gary
 
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Jadnashua

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It looks like that valve works like this: port 1 only, port 2 only, both port 1 and 2. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, you'd need either a different diverter valve or a tub spout with a built-in diverter to control three individual things. What is the model number of the diverter valve you have?
 

GBruzze1

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It looks like that valve works like this: port 1 only, port 2 only, both port 1 and 2. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, you'd need either a different diverter valve or a tub spout with a built-in diverter to control three individual things. What is the model number of the diverter valve you have?

delta_multichoice.jpg

Shower body: r60000-unws

delta_r60700.jpg

Diverter: R60700
 
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Terry

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If you are using a diverter with the valve and no diverter on the tub spout, then it all diverts with the R60700.
You can use the lower port on the valve for the most volume and cap the top. The six way trim is better in that you have more operating choices.

delta_r11000.jpg


This shows the diverter for operating off the top portion, normally only for the showers. If you don't have a diverter on the tub spout, then you need to include the six-way for that too.
 

GBruzze1

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If you are using a diverter with the valve and no diverter on the tub spout, then it all diverts with the R60700.
You can use the lower port on the valve for the most volume and cap the top. The six way trim is better in that you have more operating choices.

delta_r11000.jpg


This shows the diverter for operating off the top portion, normally only for the showers. If you don't have a diverter on the tub spout, then you need to include the six-way for that too.


Thank you.

If I understand you correctly, cap off top port of shower body. Bottom port loops around and goes into diverter. Diverted then has all 3 outputs in use, for shower head, tub fill and handheld.

If this is what you're saying, should I pipe from valve to diverted in pex since I'm looping all around? Is there an issue with running tub filler from the diverter, being that it's going to be a long run with a few elbows?

Simplest thing seems to be to just get a new tub filler with diverter.
 

Plumber01

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Come out of the bottom outlet and bring it up and around the valve to tee into the top outlet of the valve. From there go into the bottom of the diverter.

Or

Plug the top outlet of the valve. Use the bottom outlet on the valve to feed the diverter. The orifice on the bottom of the valve(that typically feeds the tub spout) is bigger than the one on the top of the valve(that typically feeds the shower head).
 

GBruzze1

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Is this what you guys are talking about?

image.jpg


Is using a tub filler with a diverted preferred or is this just as good?

The directions for the shower body show the tub filler coming from the bottom outlet of the valve. It indicates the piping needs to be copper and between 8-18". Does this change anything from the advice given, and the drawing I've attached?

Thanks againView attachment 32649
 

Jadnashua

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There is an advantage to using a diverter tub spout...the lines to the showerhead will drain once the diverter opens, meaning less cold water in the lines just sitting there for the next time. If you do not use copper for the tub spout and use one with a diverter in it, the smaller diameter pipe of say pex or cpvc will create some backpressure and force water out the showerhead as well.
 

Asktom

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I agree with using the twin ell and diverter spout. The water drains from pipes in the wall and you can adjust the temperature at the spout before you switch to the shower - no blast of cold water at the start. Also, if you ever have a problem with the diverter, the spouts are generic but, down the road, Brizo diverter parts may be difficult to find &/or expensive.
 

GBruzze1

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UPDATE:

I hadn't seen the last 2 posts about twin ells until just now when I came on to post a picture of what I had done. Nothing is soldered in yet, just set in place. I checked another thread on this forum with a similar situation as mine and I believe this is what was suggested.

Any feedback is appreciated,

Gary

image.jpeg
 

GBruzze1

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Here's another bathroom in my house I'm posting for review.

The components are a Brizo thermostatic valve, (3) Brizo volume controls, a rain can, shower head, and a hand held.

The valve and volume controls are all 3/4". My plumber stubbed 1/2" to the shower, but it's possible for me to change it to 3/4" if need be. I called Brizo tech support, and they said it doesn't matter whether I use 1/2" or 3/4" lines, because the fixtures are all 1/2" and 2.5 gpm, so the extra volume from a 3/4" line is not necessary.

I just want to get some other opinions here and see what others think.

Don't mind the big loop of blue PEX. I had to connect the rain head to the supply coming up so I could test the connections on the rain head before the ceiling was sheet rocked.

image.jpeg
 

Jadnashua

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If you'll only use one device at a time, it does not matter. If you want to use more than one, it will probably work better with 3/4" pex feeding it. It depends somewhat on how hot your hot is, as the combined volume of both the hot and cold lines can feed than one, but if your hot is not very hot or the incoming cold is quite cold, that means you're trying to use mostly all hot, and that could limit the performance.
 

GBruzze1

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Here's the riser the plumber brought up. That's 3/4" coming up, teeing off to the right is 3/4" and to the left is the 1/2" going to the shower in question.

I'm worried about cutting out this 3/4 X 3/4 X 1/2 tee, because with wirsbo pex, I need to cut about an inch off the existing pex in order to re-expand it, right?

It looks like the hot supply should be no problem. I have plenty of room from the joist to cut the existing 3/4" back and put a new tee on. But the cold supply is 3" from the joist. I'm worried once I cut that tee out I'm gonna be screwed.

Could I cut the risers before the tee, put another 3/4 tee in going to the shower, then just cap that 1/2" line? When I renovate the 1st floor in a year or two, I'll be able to remove one of the tees and get rid of the capped 1/2".

What should I do?

image.jpg
 
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GBruzze1

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Here's what I've got now. Everything up to the volume control output is 3/4".

I have an 1/8" gap between the ring and the shoulder of a fitting, shown in the attached pic. Does this need to be replaced?

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 

Jadnashua

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On the expansion fittings, the reinforcement ring is supposed to be slightly back from the end of the tubing. How much of a problem yours is and whether it is recommended to change, I do not have enough experience. My guess, probably not a big deal. But, I'm not sure.
 
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