RO drain adaptor

[Bob from accounting]

( When reading this, please understand I am not open to using a drain saddle, I despise them, and refuse to use them, so if you could work with me knowing that caveat.)

I was considering use my RO drain adapter which is a Y and does have a 3/8th push connector. My photo make it look like a a tail pipe or a straight barbed pipe but it is a Y.
Well, the black Dish Washer line coming down from the Air gap, it is being bent tautly and hitting this hard turn. The length might be maxed out.

So if I install this RO barbed Y the black drain line will not longer fit and will kink up as I would have to bend it even further.

So I am trying to figure out if I should get a longer black drain line, or find a way to drain the RO system using some type of ABS Y that allows a 3/8th push fit? I never seen or heard of one.

I was hoping to get a few ideas other that would be reasonable to do, other than an easy drain saddle, I know, I know, I know.

 

[Breplum]

Your 7/8" DW drain hose is not actually installed to code. Code requires pure gravity slope without a low point. To remedy that, we will sometimes use either a long sweep 3/4" copper 90 or a 45, using hose clamps and soldering copper pipe stubs into those fittings.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Bob from accounting]

Can you help me understand how to connect a copper long sweep to the plastic barbed dishwasher tube connector coming out of the disposal. Maybe I can kill two birds with ones stone here.

 

[Bob from accounting]

Could I just get a new 7/8 drain line that is coming from the air gap, heat up a bend to give it a sweep 90. All while maintaining proper drop. I could configure my RO adapter after the 90.

 

[Reach4]

3/4 inch copper pipe would be 7/8 OD. So if the fitting were "spigot" (pipe-sized), I would think it could be inserted into 7/8 ID hose, and secured with a clamp.

3/4 CPVC pipe would also be 7/8 OD.

 

[John Gayewski]

New black hose from the air gap.

 

[Breplum]

You'd need a short section of 7/8" DW drain hose (and two SS clamps) to connect to the DW barbed branch stub.
Is your water that bad? I've de-installed more R.O. units than installed in muni water supply locales.

 

[Bob from accounting]

Also, if anyone happens to have any thoughts on the RO adapter I have here. Is this really something a plumber would do here and considered as it seem like alot of hose clamps for this and parts. So here is the recap.
3" length of the black 7/8 tube this is connected to the Drain tube coming out of the disposal. Hose clamp on each end. This rubber hose then connects to a drain sweep 90 copper fitting using springs, Than a 3" length of 7/8 hose, hose clamps on each side, then the RO Y adapter, then the 7/8 black rubber drain hose running from the adapter a few feet up to the air gap.

My instinct is to just get a longer 7/8 black rubber drain line with the RO Y adapter at the front of it and not insert a sweep 90 to simplfy it. But out of these two options here, to allow this RO adaptor inline with this set up. Longer Drain line or insert a sweep 90?
Thanks again.

 

[Bob from accounting]

You'd need a short section of 7/8" DW drain hose (and two SS clamps) to connect to the DW barbed branch stub.
Is your water that bad? I've de-installed more R.O. units than installed in muni water supply locales.

Interesting I have never considered the option of drinking city water over RO water if I had the option? Pushing city water through a filtration process, carbon block, then a membrane to filter just your drinking water seems like a consideration many of us should explore now and in the future. There seems to have more benefits than cons in having this as an option over city water. My town did shut down one of the 7 wells due to PFAS levels. That well is now active again to help with demand. It would be hard for me to not recommend someone having RO as an option if they can afford it. It runs about $350 for the remineralisation RO package and cheaper for a simple RO setup minus a perm pump and post mineral filter.

 

[Reach4]

I think https://catalog.nibco.com/item/meta...long-radius-ftg-x-ftg-wrot-607-2-2-lt/9082100 is an appropriate long bend.

I did not follow your verbal picture. The RO, I think would be injecting on the input side of an air gap, so the 7/8 on the output of the air gap to the disposal dishwasher input would not have a wye carrying drainage directly from the RO. I think they recommend a 3-port air gap for use with dishwasher and RO.

So maybe you are talking about only the RO going thru the air gap, and the dishwasher going into an all-7/8 wye into the disposal.

 

[Bob from accounting]

The RO manufacture does recommend installing this specific RO adapter, to connect inline with the disposal dishwasher input carrying drainage from the RO. But I can double check on that here.
However taking the RO through the air gap is interesting.

 

[Reach4]

The purpose of an air gap is to isolate the supply water from the sewer water.

I think the drainage from the RO would be considered supply water.

Some RO spigots have a built-in air gap.

 

[Bob from accounting]

The purpose of an air gap is to isolate the supply water from the sewer water.

I think the drainage from the RO would be considered supply water.

Some RO spigots have a built-in air gap.

Yeah I think you are right. I was reading more about my adapter and there was a recommendation to install a check valve. So all these points bring up some insight I never thought of. But there is a check valve in the RO system at the waste line output.
I saw this three way air gap which I think you where talking about. Which now renders my 26$ adapter no longer needed.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Air-Gap...ted-Cap-5-8-x-1-4-OD-Inlets-and-7-8-OD-Outlet

 

[Bob from accounting]

I might consider just cutting the hose midway up, insert the Wye RO adaptor on the down slope. Rather than connecting close to the disposal tube inlet, just connect into the same hose but higher up? Seems like a good idea to my small brain? Or I make the low point worse? Haa, shooting at the hip here.