Rheem hot water heater drain valve Melet?

Murphysf

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Hi

I would like to drain / flush a 11 year old rheem electric water heater.

It has one of these drain valves, first time I saw one. I guess Melet is the brand?


I guess I just twist it to the left to open it.

Anything to be concerned about? Do these usually work well and turn off without leaking / dripping. Just curious to hear about this type of valve from those that have experience with them.

Thanks
 
None of the factory compression type drains will pass sediment of any great size and I experienced an issue decades ago of sediment becoming caught under the washer and creating a slow leak. That was a miserably long day.
I now replace the drain valves immediately ... the first thing we do on a new unit.
We service our electric every six months and changed the drain not for flushing ( we use a wet vac through the lower element hole to remove the sediment ) but for the fact it drains the tank much faster.

Plastic parts "break" and wear out fast if actually used.

DRAIN.jpg
 
None of the factory compression type drains will pass sediment of any great size and I experienced an issue decades ago of sediment becoming caught under the washer and creating a slow leak. That was a miserably long day.
I now replace the drain valves immediately ... the first thing we do on a new unit.
We service our electric every six months and changed the drain not for flushing ( we use a wet vac through the lower element hole to remove the sediment ) but for the fact it drains the tank much faster.

Plastic parts "break" and wear out fast if actually used.

View attachment 106013
I was just about to fetch the same full port 3/4" drain and post exactly what you did Sarg.

My experience too is the stock OEM drains do not allow you to rid the tank of the cholesterol and minerals. Stock drains fill with junk and plug up.

This full port drain dumps the tank in record time.

I wouldn't even touch a plastic drain unless you have the above one ready to replace it.
 
They surprisingly work ok. Always be prepared to have to replace the valve though or just cap it.

As said, they don't open to a full port size. I don't understand why that's even legal especially on a gas water heater. But they are generally easy to change out if you have a drain nearby.
 
Some pressure washers can draw their supply from a bucket rather than requiring incoming pressure.

I had thoughts of draining into a tub, and using a small electric pressure washer wand thru the full-port valve, and wash out sediment. The wand heads seem to be bigger than 3/4 inch, but I have not looked intensively,

If electric, Sarg and others, could stick the wand into the lower element hole. Makes me wonder if the debris would be too large to pass thru the drain, especially if there is a wand in the bore.
 
Some pressure washers can draw their supply from a bucket rather than requiring incoming pressure.

I had thoughts of draining into a tub, and using a small electric pressure washer wand thru the full-port valve, and wash out sediment. The wand heads seem to be bigger than 3/4 inch, but I have not looked intensively,

If electric, Sarg and others, could stick the wand into the lower element hole. Makes me wonder if the debris would be too large to pass thru the drain, especially if there is a wand in the bore.
The method we use every six months is using a wet vac with a 3 foot length of automotive heater hose attached through the bottom element hole. Works quite well.
 
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