Reverse osmosis water filter brass valve leak

[Charlac]

Greetings all,

Well I tried installing the Watts Premiere osmosis water filter from Costco. It seemed pretty easy, except the valve keeps leaking. At first I couldn't shut off the valve so I replaced the whole valve. So I fixed the valve and no leaks.

However the male end of the valve, that connects to the female end of the adapter keeps leaking. I tightened with all my might and broke the adapter and bought a brand new one. I used teflon tape and liquid teflon. I put rubber washers, reinstalled it over 10 times, replaced all the pipes and still it leaks! I talked to my father about it and my mother said it leaks a bit at first. She had her water filter installed by a specialist and that is what they told her. This is beyond my father's conventional wisdom as he is an apartment manager who's done dozens of fixes himself.

So my question is should I wait it out or is there something I'm missing? I looked at the manual and it doesn't say much about that part. I called customer service and they don't seem knowledgable in plumbing.

Thanks in advance.

BTW I couldn't complete the install fast enough, and the red light blink indicating I need to change the filter. That's only 3 days. Thank goodness for Costco's return policy.

 

[Plumbworker]

let me guess plastic junk..?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charlac]

let me guess plastic junk..?

What do you mean?

 

[Charlac]

*Correction*

I now see a small leak from the supply valve.

 

[Charlac]

Sounds like you are having problems with the self piercing valve. Do you have an adapter that converts 1/4" male thread to 3/8"ale thread? If so, there is a small plastic washer that sits in the adapter. This is the sealing point so no teflon tape is needed. Let me know if this is what you are talking about.

I believe they are all standard 1/4 thread and 1/2 inch threads. The plastic washer on the 1/4 inch is there. I did try it with and without teflon with the same results of no leaks at all. I have entirely replace the pipes but it still leaks.


This isn't my pic but it is the female connector on top where it joins the valve. That is the where the leak is coming from.

*Update* The hot water is now leaking! I haven't touched it with a spanner/wrench. I did close the valve though when I was working on the install. The faucet is dripping as well.

 

[hj]

leaks

The only way that connection should leak is if you lost the rubber washer or did not tighten it enough. The other leaks may just need tightening depending on where they are. "The hot water is now leaking" doesn't tell us anything about WHAT or WHERE it is leaking. And saying a valve is leaking is also a broad statement.

 

[Charlac]

The only way that connection should leak is if you lost the rubber washer or did not tighten it enough. The other leaks may just need tightening depending on where they are. "The hot water is now leaking" doesn't tell us anything about WHAT or WHERE it is leaking. And saying a valve is leaking is also a broad statement.

There was no rubber washer to begin with and the DIY kit that came with it had no washers at all. I have tried it on and off and it still leaks. It did have teflon tape which is I'm sure all that should be needed. Believe I have tighten them to thel point where it has cracked and leaked even more. It is constantly leaking from the male end of the main valve. The hot water began to also leak from that end.

They are all copper valve from Ace hardware.

 

[Jadnashua]

The chromed 1/2" part probably needs either pipe dope or teflon tape (some people use both) to make the seal. That is a tapered thread - the threads hold it together, the tape and/or pipe dope seal between the threads. Without the tape or dope, a tapered pipe thread will leak.

The compression fitting needs a ferrule that fits over the outside of the pipe. The nut compresses that to the pipe and pushes it against a seat in the valve to make the seal...it is all compression and if you use tape or dope, it will likely leak. That ferrule could be an o-ring, but could also be either plastic or metal; depends on the design.

If the small tubing coming out of the valve is not copper, then usually, you need an additional sleeve that fits inside of the tubing to support it while the ferrule compresses against the tubing from the outside.

It's hard to overtighten a tapered pipe thread without a really long wrench. If it has a properly applied layer of tape or dope, and is tight enough, it should not leak. Hassle is, a lot of the junk sold today has threads that are cut with dull tools or with improper diameters. This can make sealing tough - it may need more wraps of teflon tape than a to spec fitting. A tapered pipe fitting should not allow the pipe to bottom out in the fitting...it should be tight before that happens.

You need to indicate where in the thing it is leaking...the valve has numerous parts and each place may dicate a different fix. That male 1/2" fitting needs pipe dope or teflon tape. If it leaks, it needs to be tighter. The filter should only be on the cold side...how is it leaking hot?

No properly designed water pipe fittings should leak when installed properly - either initially or later on. Anyone that says it will leak then stop doesn't understand. Yes, it can happen, but it is not a design thing. It just shouldn't leak at all.

 

[Charlac]

This is a complete kit without a ferrule on the valve. I would think this works straight out of the box if it is sold at a commercial chain like Costco.

The filter is only on the cold side. I have turned off the hot side before using only my hands on the knob and for some reason now it leaks. I'm pretty sure it didn't leak before.

I'm afraid to torque it even more because on my 13th or 15th try it leaked more than when I gave it a heave finding a good seating that leaked less.

 

[Ladiesman271]

This is a complete kit without a ferrule on the valve. I would think this works straight out of the box if it is sold at a commercial chain like Costco.

The filter is only on the cold side. I have turned off the hot side before using only my hands on the knob and for some reason now it leaks. I'm pretty sure it didn't leak before.

I'm afraid to torque it even more because on my 13th or 15th try it leaked more than when I gave it a heave finding a good seating that leaked less.

If you are trying to say the original shutoff valves (hot and cold) are leaking, then you need to repair the shutoff valves. Turnoff the main water valve. Then take apart the shutoff valves and replace any old seals, O rings or stem seals.

I recently relocated copper water pipes in my house. All the old shutoff valves (sink,toilet, etc.) needed work of one sort or another. Some leaked after I turned them. Some would not shut the water off 100%. Some would not turn. Some valves needed to be replaced, some only needed new washers.

Note that my shutoff valves are 50 years old, and the shutoff valves were not used for 20, 30 or so years.



If you are saying that the valve is leaking with the old ferrule in place, then replace the ferrule or the connector pipe from the shutoff valve to the faucet (or whatever it goes to). I replaced a few of my faucet connector pipes with a new flex pipe.


You have found out that small "plumbing" jobs are a pain. You have to fix parts that have just gotten a bit old in addition to your new work.

 

[Jadnashua]

It's still not clear...is it leaking from the 1/2" connections or the 1/4" tubing connection?

The 1/2" connections need tape or dope (try both!). The other connection going to the filter will leak if you use tape and most also contain a ferrule.

Is the tubing coming off of the added valve plastic or copper?

Unless the copper is preformed with a flared end, it needs a ferrule to seal. This would likely be a conventional compression fitting. You slide the nut on, then the ferrule - if it is plastic, insert the strengthener inside of the tubing; then push the tubing to the bottom of the fitting and tighten up the nut. If you tighten it too much, it will leak. Best practice is to get it finger tight, then about another 1/2-turn. If it still leaks keep going by about 1/8-1/4 at a time until it stops giving it a minute or so to weep out, if it is going to. Was the 1/4" stuff just a straight piece, or did it have something on the end, and was the nut already attached, or was it loose?

WIthout the ferrule, you can just pull the tubing out of the in-line valve fitting you have shown in your picture.

 

[Charlac]

It's still not clear...is it leaking from the 1/2" connections or the 1/4" tubing connection?

The 1/2" connections need tape or dope (try both!). The other connection going to the filter will leak if you use tape and most also contain a ferrule.

Is the tubing coming off of the added valve plastic or copper?

Unless the copper is preformed with a flared end, it needs a ferrule to seal. This would likely be a conventional compression fitting. You slide the nut on, then the ferrule - if it is plastic, insert the strengthener inside of the tubing; then push the tubing to the bottom of the fitting and tighten up the nut. If you tighten it too much, it will leak. Best practice is to get it finger tight, then about another 1/2-turn. If it still leaks keep going by about 1/8-1/4 at a time until it stops giving it a minute or so to weep out, if it is going to. Was the 1/4" stuff just a straight piece, or did it have something on the end, and was the nut already attached, or was it loose?

WIthout the ferrule, you can just pull the tubing out of the in-line valve fitting you have shown in your picture.

It is leaking from the 1/2.

The end going to the filter is not leaking at all.

The tube going to the filter is plastic but I'm positive that isn't leaking. I can see water droplets coming out of the 1/2 even whether the 1/4 is rightsight up or upside down.

The 1/4 inch is just a straight pipe. I guess I may experiment with the 1/4 turn suggestion and find a good seating.

I called the company to troubleshoot again and they told me to just wrap it with teflon 10 times. I thought duct tape was for that.