Tdy.617
New Member
Online research regarding correct basement insulation methods that avoid moisture intrusion is what prompted this post. My question is regarding the best method to retrofit a portion of insulation removed from stud framing behind the side of shower stall in basement bathroom that faces underground concrete foundation blocks.
The house is ranch style w/ walk-out basement built in Birmingham AL, 1983, basement living space finished early 2000's.
The shower encasement sits 8.5" off the concrete blocks, the stud framing around it sits 3.75" off wall. Kraft paper backed insulation was removed from only the first stud bay facing the foundation. The remaining insulation down the concrete wall is inaccessible, what's visible seems intact, no mildew odor exists.
The insulation piece was removed due to being halfway disintegrated (possibly caused by a hole in foundation grading on exterior side from misaligned gutter allowing rain water under structure). I discovered this after the sheetrock wall situated between garage & living space was taken down to upgrade electrical & water lines. The back of shower faucet faces the removed sheetrock wall / garage, not the foundation blocks.
Plastic wrapped R-13 fiberglass is what I purchased to replace in the frame studs along the removed wall. The vapor barrier side will be placed towards interior warm side, hopefully that is correct method?
Will be closing wall with Densarmor plus sheets.
Will the R-13 be sufficient to replace in the one stud bay facing concrete blocks or too much of a gamble to prevent future mold growth?
Overall, obviously whatever I use for replacement, the original insulation installed could trigger future moisture issues and may be the worrisome culprit. The Kraft paper side is faced towards concrete which I believe is incorrect. However, with no apparent moisture issue occurring over 20 years since bathroom was put in, is the 3.75" between concrete wall & framing leaving sufficient space for any moisture to dry out?
Just not sure how to move forward or if I possibly need a completely different plan. I truly appreciate knowledgeable insight, I am very confused & also new to DIY repairs!
The house is ranch style w/ walk-out basement built in Birmingham AL, 1983, basement living space finished early 2000's.
The shower encasement sits 8.5" off the concrete blocks, the stud framing around it sits 3.75" off wall. Kraft paper backed insulation was removed from only the first stud bay facing the foundation. The remaining insulation down the concrete wall is inaccessible, what's visible seems intact, no mildew odor exists.
The insulation piece was removed due to being halfway disintegrated (possibly caused by a hole in foundation grading on exterior side from misaligned gutter allowing rain water under structure). I discovered this after the sheetrock wall situated between garage & living space was taken down to upgrade electrical & water lines. The back of shower faucet faces the removed sheetrock wall / garage, not the foundation blocks.
Plastic wrapped R-13 fiberglass is what I purchased to replace in the frame studs along the removed wall. The vapor barrier side will be placed towards interior warm side, hopefully that is correct method?
Will be closing wall with Densarmor plus sheets.
Will the R-13 be sufficient to replace in the one stud bay facing concrete blocks or too much of a gamble to prevent future mold growth?
Overall, obviously whatever I use for replacement, the original insulation installed could trigger future moisture issues and may be the worrisome culprit. The Kraft paper side is faced towards concrete which I believe is incorrect. However, with no apparent moisture issue occurring over 20 years since bathroom was put in, is the 3.75" between concrete wall & framing leaving sufficient space for any moisture to dry out?
Just not sure how to move forward or if I possibly need a completely different plan. I truly appreciate knowledgeable insight, I am very confused & also new to DIY repairs!