Requesting Feedback on Shower Liner Install

[MikeGA]

This is the first time I've installed a shower liner. I've seen a few videos online and everybody seems to have their own technique. I took some pictures and I'm curious as to what the pros who have done this many times before think. I'll take all feedback because I'd rather rip it apart and get it right than be lazy and keep it there.

I'm mostly interested in:
1. How are my corners in the outside shower curb?
2. Do I need to install those Oatey corner pieces on the inside and outside of the shower curb, totaling 4?
3. On the picture with the curb (highlighted in red). I cut it too short because I didnt pull the liner in tight from the inside, so I unscrewed it, pulled it tight from the inside and left with about 1/4" gap.
4. On one of the pictures, I'm trying to show that the 2x6 block was slightly recessed so that it sits behind the studs and so that the fold will make it more flush when the rock goes on.

Thoughts/Feedback?

Thanks!

 

[Jadnashua]

Well, a few things:
- it works best if you notch the studs so the folds from the corners can be slightly recessed so you don't end up with a bulge there
- is the liner flat on the floor, or is there a preslope underneath? The LINER is the waterproofing, and it needs to be sloped to the drain
- over the curb, you want the liner to go outside rather than being folded back, and then the corners seal both the edges and insides of the curb. The slight gap at the bottom isn't critical.
- you want blocking between the studs so that the liner is supported and will have room to anchor the cbu when you install that (note, no penetrations within 2" of the top of the curb!). That means no cbu on the curb held on with screws!

The type of cbu you use determines the method of how you attach the bottom of the cbu. For example, should you choose Hardiebacker, you MUST keep the bottom edge above the mud bed at the bottom, while the other types you can embed it. That makes securing the bottom of a HardieBacker cbu tougher. With compatible cbu, you can embed the bottom in the deck mud, securing it in place without screws...can't do that with HardieBacker or any of the fiber-cement boards (the fiber in Hardiebacker is cellulose).

Did you put some silicone on the top of the bottom of the drain body prior to laying the liner on it?

Probably the best site for help in building your shower is www.johnbridge.com

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MikeGA]

Well, a few things:
- it works best if you notch the studs so the folds from the corners can be slightly recessed so you don't end up with a bulge there
- is the liner flat on the floor, or is there a preslope underneath? The LINER is the waterproofing, and it needs to be sloped to the drain
- over the curb, you want the liner to go outside rather than being folded back, and then the corners seal both the edges and insides of the curb. The slight gap at the bottom isn't critical.
- you want blocking between the studs so that the liner is supported and will have room to anchor the cbu when you install that (note, no penetrations within 2" of the top of the curb!). That means no cbu on the curb held on with screws!

The type of cbu you use determines the method of how you attach the bottom of the cbu. For example, should you choose Hardiebacker, you MUST keep the bottom edge above the mud bed at the bottom, while the other types you can embed it. That makes securing the bottom of a HardieBacker cbu tougher. With compatible cbu, you can embed the bottom in the deck mud, securing it in place without screws...can't do that with HardieBacker or any of the fiber-cement boards (the fiber in Hardiebacker is cellulose).

Did you put some silicone on the top of the bottom of the drain body prior to laying the liner on it?

Probably the best site for help in building your shower is www.johnbridge.com

Thanks Jad,

-If you can tell from one of the pictures, I notched the inside corners and also moved the 2x6 block so that the folded liner sits flush with the wall, it's as straight as I can get it. Is there another fold that you see that's bulged out?
-There is a pre-slope, I used the Oatey pre slope form underneath it
-I'm not following...over the curb, you want the liner to go outside rather than being folded back? Can you send me a pic or something?
-I used 2x6 blocking between each stud, however, I didnt screw each block because i thought it would be too low. I screwed at the highest point of the liner, which is about 8" high, the block is 5 1/2" high. should I screw the liner at each block?


-Question---How do I install the cement board on the curb with no screws?

 

[Jeff H Young]

I've studied the liners never put one in or seen one in my home state but seen them in Florida. In my area Plumbers don't build shower pans a few tile guys will. Its either up to owner or us to hire a hot mopper hot tar . Its mainly a specialty but some roofers do them. Something I've been trying to figure out is why it seems only California hot mops showers ? A lot of jobs don't use cement board but , it gets lathed with wire paper a scratch coat and floated with cement. now a days we do see a fair amount of the cement board probably half the jobs. high dollar jobs mainly all floated.
Liner looks good I have looked a lot online but no real experience. It looks like the curb area. should come up the wall several inches though to me.