Replacing Valves for Washing Machine - Not Sure if I Should Use an In-Wall Box

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cai24

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I would like replace the valves for my washing machine. I believe they are original from the early 80s. The cold water valve has started to leak, even after repacking it. I was thinking about using Dahl 3/4" Mini-Ball Hose Valves. I want something not made in China. They are made in Canada (USA made would be great too). My other thought was that maybe I should install an in-wall box. I don't know if it's worth the effort though, as my drain is still outside the wall (the trap is also outside the wall at floor level). My concern is that the copper pipes wouldn't line up properly, but I guess I could always reroute them or use a small PEX run. I am very indecisive, and I was hoping I could get some advice on the best way to deal with this. Also, should I swap out the rubber hoses with braided stainless?

Valve: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-621-64-04-3-4-MIP-x-Male-Hose-Mini-Ball-Hose-Valve-LF-Brass

IMG_4249 (1).jpg
 

Mr tee

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I am in the minority in not liking WM boxes, they look neater if you are trying to impress a customer, but really, how much time do you spend admiring the wall behind your washing machine. It can be more complicated changing the valves down the road and in your case not worth the effort anyway, particularly with the trap outside the wall.
 

John Gayewski

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Your question depends on your preference. The wall box is more attractive particularly if the water is coming from above. If everything is coming from below the washer covers most, if not all, of the area the piping takes. I don't think it's worth anything other than looks. As said its just harder to replace the valves 40 years from now.
 

cai24

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You have a 1/2" tee there don't you?
I would pick up some of the Dahl washer stops. It's an easy fix and they are very nice.

View attachment 79669

https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/...rain/iron/hose-boiler-drain-221-01-04-PK2.php

Thanks. I can tell that the incoming water line is 1/2", but the water hammer and valve side look wider to me. I guess that's because they are threaded. I believe it is all 1/2". Is there an easy way to tell without disconnecting?

**Ignore my original question about lead-free. I see SupplyHouse carries a lead-free version, so I can get that one anyway.
 

Terry

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Thanks. I can tell that the incoming water line is 1/2", but the water hammer and valve side look wider to me. I guess that's because they are threaded. I believe it is all 1/2". Is there an easy way to tell without disconnecting?

**Ignore my original question about lead-free. I see SupplyHouse carries a lead-free version, so I can get that one anyway.

Weird, not for potable. Though for a washing machine I'm not sure if that matters.
I had no idea though.

dahl-211-01-04-PK2.jpg
 
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John Gayewski

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Weird, not for potable. Though for a washing machine I'm not sure if that matters.
I had no idea though.

View attachment 79670
They have to put that by law. There's nothing wrong with them. There are many parts (for RPZ's and probably other things) that there is no lead free version of but they can/ must be installed

But yes if someone can comply with the law they should.

The law went from 8 percent maximum lead content to .25 percent (going from memory). I wonder how much actual lead is in one of those valves that aren't lead free.
 
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