Replacing tub valve set: which side of the wall to work from?

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AcidWater

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I'll call a pro to do the replacement. But I will need to have the pipes exposed.

The other side of the wall is the other bathtub. So either way, I want to cut in a way that does not ruin the tiles, since I cannot match them from 1966. The grout line is very thin, less than 1/8" wide. How did they set them that close? They don't make the little plastic x's that narrow.

I'll use a vibratory saw to cut thru the grout lines. Cut the top edge last, after putting shims into the bottom to take the weight. Then re-install the cutout piece into the hole (see below for that issue).

How big a hole does the plumber need to work with copper pipes? I guess a rectangle from the other side is easier than trying to cut "over & around" the valves coming out of the wall ??

The spout is about 4" above the edge of the tub.
The tiles are 4 1/4" square, and the lowest row of tiles is cut short.

I think I should NOT cut below the bottom tile -- this would probably mar the bathtub, and cutting thru the cement board is a leak path for water, so I want that flaw up higher. So I'll cut along the top edge of the bottom tile.

When replacing the cutout piece, I guess I should seal the cut lines with something waterproof. Construction cement in a tube says "not for immersion" and I know that grout allows water to penetrate, as well as patching plaster. So how should I seal the cement board?

I'll have to use the stud finder to see where they are. Hopefully there's not one right in the middle.

I might have to choose between cutting out a smaller piece in the center, or a really big piece that overlaps a stud so I can glue it back onto the stud. But there might be a drywall screw in that area, and it would be behind a tile, so I might end up breaking some tiles. So probably best to cut to avoid the studs, and put an "extender" piece of wood onto the backside of the hole edges, and glue the cutout piece onto that.

Any way I examine this job, a real PIA. I don't mind catching a slow drip in a bucket & using it in the sink, but the drip just got much faster. Its from acid erosion of the valve seat -- which I cannot remove because the square hole eroded and when I tried, the wrench just created a round hole. Tried using a broken-screw extractor tool, but its too deep & I could not find a tool that would reach it. Or I did & the valve seat just crumbled more. It was a long time ago.

If only they made a thin disk that I could superglue onto the top of the existing valve seat, to provide a new sealing edge...
 

Jadnashua

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This is the prime reason why there are many remodel/rennovation plates out there. Do a search on that term and you'll see what I mean. These are a decorative plate (they come in various shapes and finishes) that covers the hole needed to replace an old shower control valve. You use the trim plate from the new valve on top of the remodel plate to then cover the hole in the middle. I've used this one before, but there are lots of others out there. You do not necessarily need one from the same company as your valve. It comes with a template to show you the size of the hole. It sounds like you have a soft, bisque tile, and a glass tile bit or a carbide bit usually will cut it easily. You can make a series of holes, then carefully break away the section...the rough edges will be covered by the new plate and those wings and screws anchor it to the wall. The valve's cover plate would be screwed into the new valve in the wall.
Delta remodel plate.jpg
 

AcidWater

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How big is that plate? 18" long? But this is 1966. Two valves & a spout.
 

Jadnashua

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There are probably at least a few dozen different ones out there not all the same size or shape. That particular Delta one is 15.13 x 0.38 x 9.00 inches. Some are longer, some narrower, but that's probably about average.
 

AcidWater

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How do I specify what I'm looking for? this is a tub, not a shower -- so the plate needs to cover the hot/cold on 8" center, the shower/spout diverter valve, and the spout itself.
 
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Reach4

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How do I specify what I'm looking for? this is a tub, not a shower -- so the plate needs to cover the hot/cold on 8" center, the shower/spout valve, and the spout itself.
Post a photo or sketch of what you have. Describe what you want to have.
 

AcidWater

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I want the same as I have. A standard 3 valve set, hot/cold are on 8" centers, with the diverter valve in between, and the spout below. All one assembly.
 

Jadnashua

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What you want, and what an inspector will allow, are not necessarily the same thing! You can repair what you have, but to remain code compliant, you cannot replace what you have with a new one. All of the remodel plates (that I've seen, anyways) are designed to enable you to make the transition to one that will meet code. In some states, it's even illegal to sell or buy or trade a non-compliant valve!

There are two handle, compliant valves out there but most are single handle since they are the least expensive way to become code compliant. Those with two handles come in two varieties: volume/temp, or volume, thermostatic control. Most do not include a diverter, but it's simple to use a diverter tub spout. They do also make separate diverter valves, but that would likely require you to tear up more of the wall to replumb things.
 

AcidWater

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No inspectors are involved. Had no trouble replacing the other one (got to it from the closet behind, so no tile issues). What's the supposed problem with this style, other than lining the pockets of manufacturers & "make work" for Govt employees?
 

Terry

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The advantage of a pressure balanced faucet is that the temperature stays the same even if someone is working the kitchen faucet or toilet while you are in the shower.
Also, since the three handle faucet is no long code legal, at some point parts are going to be a problem.
Price Pfister still makes a three handle valve.
 
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