Replacing tub and brass drain

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Bschooly

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Im replacing an old tub on a slab in a 60s era home. The old drain assembly was brass. See picture of female brass fitting.

I assume somewhere buried beneath that fitting is a p trap. I poked around and didn't feel one though.

How should I proceed? Should I verify a p trap exists? Should I replace it?

How do I plumb this? I plan on a PVC assembly but unsure how to secure to brass. Brass pipe was just pressed into fitting. Should it be sweated?

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Bschooly

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Also what about venting? Nearest vent is about 5 ' away on opposite wall. Is that acceptable?
 

Sylvan

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Normally a trap should be with in 2 feet of the fixture and the trap with in 2 feet of the vent (MAX)
 

Terry

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If you're installing a new PVC tub waste and overflow, dig down and replace the p-trap.
You can make the connection to the existing line there with a shielded coupling.

In Texas, a 1.5" trap arm can go 42" to the vent and a 2" trap arm can go as far as five feet.

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Bschooly

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Thanks Terry. Wow that trap is going to be deep. The picture I provided is 16" from the floor surface.
 

Reach4

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I assume somewhere buried beneath that fitting is a p trap. I poked around and didn't feel one though.
If you add a gallon of water, you could stick a stick down there 10 minutes to a week later. The trap will hold water, so if the stick comes up wet the bottom 2 or more inches, that is probably a trap down there.
 

Bschooly

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Yea there's water there. So a trap for sure. I like Terry's idea as I'm going to have an alignment issue with the tub assembly. Though it may be hard to get to it...
 

Bschooly

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Well having a terrible time getting the remainder of the trap out. All that's left is an inch or inside a female end. It turns freely, is loose yet it won't come out. I may have to hack saw it out. Any other ideas?
 

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Terry

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That is a lead and oakum joint. You can drill and pry the lead out of the joint, and replace with a rubber donut.
I bevel the end of the new pipe and lube it with liquid soap. Tap it in with a piece of wood and a hammer. Install a longer piece than you need and after it's tapped in, cut to the length you need.

washer_b4.jpg
 

Bschooly

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Thanks. I was afraid I'd bugger up the coupling so I didn't try prying it out, Instead I was moving the pipe back and forth then trying to pull it out. Spent an inordinate amount of time on it so far :(

Anyway I'm concerning about venting. I assumed the line would head across the bathroom where I have the vent stack. Instead it appears to come from the center of the house where I believe it intersects (T's) with the main line that runs across the whole house.

I didn't have drainage issues before but I'm guessing at the least this is not code compliant. Anything I can do to rectify or sure this up?
 

Terry

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I didn't have drainage issues before but I'm guessing at the least this is not code compliant. Anything I can do to rectify or sure this up?

Without seeing what you have, I can't assume it's wrong. I would guess that it was plumbed and inspected at the time.
The lead will come out and the new pipe will push in with the donut found at the hardware store. If they have a few donuts there, pick whatever you can find for that size. They vary some. You can take back the one(s) you don't use.
 

Bschooly

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Well there was an old utility closet across the hall from the bath. It had at one time a HVAC unit. There was a 3" drain there at one point, but nothing to indicate a vent through the roof. I have a one story. That drain is now capped and the floor patched up. I estimate maybe 7-8 feet to the old drain from the tub drain.

As for up to code. the house was built in '62 and there were definitely things done that weren't kosher.

Assuming I don't have it properly vented, what are my options to vent it and do so with the lease amount of expense/effort? See image. Bathroom is 9 X 7 feet.

PS. Sent a small tip your way. I'd say go grab a starbucks. But I guess you are locked down like the rest of us...
 

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Reach4

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Do you have an attic? The vent should not open into the attic, but should go through the roof. Even when you have AAVs, there needs to be a roof vent. AAVs can admit air, but cannot exhaust it.
 

Bschooly

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Yes to attic. Can vent run up the wall then go horizontally to the vent stack (about 10 feet)? Is this needed. Maybe wet venting is sufficient. Trouble is I don't know how things are connected. If you look at the image. The 2" drain appears to come from the hall (assuming no turn). When I look into the WC it turns towards to hall as well. I would have expected it would have gone towards the vent stack.
 

Reach4

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There was a 3" drain there at one point, but nothing to indicate a vent through the roof
Are you saying that there is a vent thru the roof, but it does not seem to be connected with the pipes you are describling? Or that there is no vent through the roof at all?
Yes to attic. Can vent run up the wall then go horizontally to the vent stack (about 10 feet)?
Are you saying there is a vent thru the roof? If yes, you should be able to do that. Make the horizontal 42 inches or more above the floor of the level the vent serves.

Also, you can use an AAV if you have a roof vent somewhere. But a real vent connection is preferable.
 

Bschooly

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There was a 3" drain there at one point, but nothing to indicate a vent through the roof

The above refers to a spot across the hall. The bath room does have 3 inch vent stack behind the toilet and yes it goes thru the roof.
 

Bschooly

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Thinking I just need to know if I need more venting. Thinking I may plumb enough to test the drainage before tub is installed.
 

Bschooly

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Re the new dry vent...

So the idea would be to tie into the line beyond the p trap, then at a 45 degree angle head towards the wall, then up the wall, then head back to the stack which is on the wall opposite the one shown.

Is this crazy? Is it needed?
 

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Bschooly

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I think so. The trap is deep so the 45 degree section should go under the slab, not through the existing opening... Just have to poke a hole at the wall to take the vertical pipe. Or I might be able to make the connection in the dead space under the tub. The tub is getting a surround hence the 2x4s. Suggestions welcome. Love this site. I was talking with my nephew, a construction engineer, and he asked "where are you getting this information?" He was impressed.
 
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