Replacing Toilet Flange Advice

[Wally3433]

I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel. My next step is to install the subfloor, and I want to get the subfloor as close to the flange/pipe assembly for the toilet as possible. My only issue is that I do not know my finished floor height yet, as I have not decided whether or not I am using an uncoupling membrane and/or what thickness of durock (if any) I am going to use.

So.....I wanted to see what the board would reccomend in this instance.

Should I cut the vertical pipe, then splice a new piece in well above the floor height and adjust/install the flange when I am done with the floor?

Or, since I have access to the toilet area from below, should I just cut the vertical piple down below subfloor level and deal with it later?

Also, flange reccomendations would be appreciated - want a good one that I don't have to worry about.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Dlarrivee]

Those are quite the floor joists.

I'm a little bit concerned with that vent coming off the w/c... Wait to see what a plumber says before covering that up.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Gary Swart]

I think either way of dealing with the flange would be OK, but I'd be inclined to put a long pipe without glue. Now, before I get jumped on about not dry fitting PVC, I am not suggesting that you try to fully seat the vertical pipe. Just enough to fit the floor. Then remove the pipe and cut it as needed to fit the flange. The best flanges have a stainless steel ring. Flanges are supposed to set on top of the finished floor (I gather you know that) I too have concerns about the vent and the floor joists. Joist should be on edge and you need more of them. I fear the inspector may not pass this.

 

[Wally3433]

Gary - I like the dry fit idea. I did not think of that. Basically it's a combonation of what I was thinking and would allow me the most flexibility.

What is the problem with the HVAC vent?

Those are not joists that you see, they are trusses. I put in some additional supporting members in there as well. Do you think I should put some additional crossmembers in there in the toilet area to "box it out". Let me know what your concerns are.

Thanks for the help.

 

[hj]

The vent will "work" but it is not how I would have done it, assuming that there is a sink connected to that does not show in the picture. I would also NOT make the toilet connection the way it was done. I would have used a 4x3 hub closet bend with a 4" riser, sticking above the floor, then after tiling, with a 3/8" space around the pipe, I would have glued a 4" "hub flange' onto the pipe after sliding it down to the floor. Then cut the 4" riser off FLUSH with the top of the flange. If you do not have any leaks, which would weaken the floor's plywood, you have enough structural support for the toilet.

 

[Wally3433]

HJ - Interesting idea as well. This would allow me to drywall the room below in the meantime.

 

[Dlarrivee]

What is the problem with the HVAC vent?

I'm not talking about the HVAC. I'm talking about the vent for your w/c.

You can drywall that ceiling any time, why would you make it so that you had to work from below?

 

[Basement_Lurker]

...all I can say is...wow

 

[Dlarrivee]

Is this a mobile home or what is it...? I've never seen a truss built like that and spaced so far apart, used for a floor joist.

 

[Wally3433]

Trusses are engineered to allow a wide variety of spans, spacing and loads. They are much stronger than joists - and always used in 3/4 flat condo construction in Chicago - regular joists and/or microlams are never used in this application.

Regarding the vent, can anyone reccomend a better location for it?

 

[Wally3433]

The wc vent does connect to the same vent stack as the sink (and the shower), but it does so "after" the sink. As you can see, I don't have much room to work with - that wc drain goes downstairs and ties directly into the main waste stack about 4-5 feet away.

Thanks for any advice

 

[Wally3433]

I'm not talking about the HVAC. I'm talking about the vent for your w/c.

You can drywall that ceiling any time, why would you make it so that you had to work from below?

I installed a radiant floor heating system and a steam unit and needed access.

 

[PlumbPowerHouse]

If it were me, I would put down the floor then put the flange in. I believe it would be a lot easier that way as well, seeing that you can access it from below.

 

[Wally3433]

Powerhouse - never even thought of that. Thanks for the advice - that's the way I am going to approach it.

 

[Jadnashua]

A hub flange doesn't have a stop on it...it fits entirely over the pipe, and you slide it onto the pipe with the pvc cement until it is sitting flat on the finished floor. Then, you cut off the excess vertical pipe sticking through the flange. You'd just leave the pipe long, and ensure it is nice and plumb with enough gap around it so you can add cement and slide the flange over when the time comes. Cut off the excess after gluing it up.

Dry fitting pvc (or abs) pipe is a fool's errand. You won't be able to seat the pipe into the sockets, and you'll end up as much as 1/2" short on each connection...just measure, cut and put it together once. They rely on the cement MELTING the plastic so it will fit into the socket to the stop...normally, you can't get it in that far until you add the cement - it's called an interference fit...the socket is smaller than the diameter of the pipe at the bottom near the stop.