Replacing pressure tank - fittings question

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Reach4

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I am not a pro. When I had my pit demolished and a pitless installed, I had a 12 year old Sta-rite pump put back down June 2014 . It's still working. There were some major changes for pretty much all makers after my pump was built, and some pumps were no longer as good.

It would be interesting if counties who require permits when the pump is changed, would release longevity data for the various pumps.
 

vic4news

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View attachment 63920 View attachment 63921 Hi. I want to replace my failed pressure tank with a larger one and need some advice. First the ball valve is cracked and leaking. In order to remove the valve should I sweat the fitting off the copper pipe or should I cut the copper pipe and solder on a new fitting once a put on a new valve? Would using some kind of union be better to make replacement of the tank easier in the future?

Second the old tank uses a 1” npt connection. The tank I want to replace it with has a 1 1/4 connection.
What should I use to connect the new tank? 1 1/4 pipe and some kind of adapter?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Vic

I put in the new tank yesterday. Had to cut and angle the 3/4 copper house supply line as well as move the lines forward for the new tank to fit. I put in 3 unions to make future replacement easy. Thanks for the advice and recommendation for supplyhouse.com
 

vic4news

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It’s been 24 years and my 30/50 psi swing doesn’t bother me.

I did seriously consider getting a csv, but I have poly pipe in my well and was concerned about cracking the pipe because of the pressure increase the csv would cause when restricting the 10 gpm pump down to 1 gpm.
If I had a metal well pipe I would have gone for it.
 

Valveman

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I understand. But nobody has steel pipe in the well anymore. Poly pipe with a CSV is very normal. If you know what size pump you have the back pressure is easy to figure. Or there are several ways to test for what size pump you have. As long as your pump builds less pressure than your pipe can handle, higher back pressure is a good thing. It is what eliminates the cycling and is actually easier on the pipe than water hammer from a check valve slamming repeatedly, as it does with any pressure tank only system. The higher back pressure is what makes the strong constant pressure on the user side. I have hundreds of reviews from people who went from "30/50 swing doesn't bother me", as that is all they had known, to "I never knew my shower pressure could be this good". Once they go constant pressure they never go back. Lol! Thanks for the consideration though. :)
 
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