Keesa
Member
If I pop the rubber bleeder out I have to pull the well pipe anyways yes? Thanks for all the help btw.
Replacing pneumatic tank with bladder tank
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Unfortunately yes.
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Keesa
Member
If I run with the bleeder popped out what happens? Air in the lines? Or short cycle the pump?
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
Pump would never shut off and you would heat the recirculating water.
Keesa
Member
Seems to me I should focus on getting the well pipe up then...back to the drawing board
To amplify on what Valveman is saying, if you remove or disable the check valve before the pressure tank, the leakage out of the bleeder may be negligible. So in that case, you could leave the bleeder in place until you are pulling the pump at some point.
The reason is that the bleeder would be designed to only open if the pressure in the pipe at that point is below 10 psi or some other pressure. The pressure tank, together with the pump, would keep the pressure well above 10 PSI. They don't always use a bleeder valve, and sometimes just put in a small hole. Or there could be a bleeder valve, but it does not hold sufficiently. The pump would cycle. Once every 10 minutes? Every hour? It depends on your pressure tank and how much leakage there is from the bleeder.
Keesa
Member
So if I remove the snifter valve near the old tank, while replacing the old tank I should be fine??? Pump going on every 10 minutes doesn't sound very good for the pump....
The point is that you would not know unless you tried.
You don't have to remove the snifter valve. You could just put on a sealed valve cap that is made for car wheels.
Keesa
Member
Ya, but if I can't get the well pipe up and it doesn't work I'm in big trouble...
If the pressure stayed up for an extended period, the snifter would never open. I suspect that even the new brass bleeder valves are designed to leak a tiny bit.
I can imagine a little test hose. One end goes to the snifter valve. The other end goes to a pressurized water valve. I envision a small flow from the pressure side, through the hose, and through the snifter valve. If the pump does not cycle significantly, I would think that indicates the bleeder valve is holding sufficiently.
Keesa
Member
LOL I have no idea how this helps me.
It was more a technical discussion with Valveman or others who might want to discuss on the topic. It could potentially develop into something that could help you.
Don't let that stop you from trying to pull the pipe as described in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/cant-pull-up-well-pump.72984/ . If you could pull that pipe and hold it at the right level, you could maybe put a screw in place blocking the hole.
Why are you replacing the existing tank? Because it looks like it could fail, or because the function is not good?
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I've yet to see this question answered, for which the answer may determine whether or not you should attempt to pull it by hand. You also cannot go by what your neighbor said or did. Two of my neighbors have wells that are hundreds of feet deeper than mine.
Also, what is the static water level? The portion of pipe that is above the water is heavier than what is under water.
Keesa
Member
It is an old pneumatic tank and is very rusted and starting to leak a bit. Supplier up here said we can only get them in industrial sizes, very expensive, hence the change to the newer style.
Keesa
Member
I can see the water about 15 feet down.
They are available, some of them are in [rustproof] fiberglass.
Keesa
Member
Available yes, but about four times the cost here.
If you can see 15', you should be able to see the tee with the bleeder?
Keesa
Member
I read on previous posts the bleeder is about four feet below the t on the well pipe itself. Can’t see past the t.
Keesa
Member
Sorry long time since Ive responded, tackling the tank today, does this trick only work if I have a CSV? Thanks!
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