Replacing Pedestal Sink with Vanity

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Reach4

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I think that works, but you need to convert to 1-1/4 at some point.

This stuff is cheap enough that you can buy some extra stuff, and if you keep them in good condition, you can return the leftovers with receipt.
 

RMO194

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I think that works, but you need to convert to 1-1/4 at some point.

This stuff is cheap enough that you can buy some extra stuff, and if you keep them in good condition, you can return the leftovers with receipt.
I thought that was the point of the adapter (to adapt it from 1-1/2 to 1-1/4).

Or is it more something like this one (it specifically mentions 1-1/2 to 1-1/4)?

 
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Reach4

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That Nibco you just posted is glue on, and not screw on.

You can convert from 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 with a reducing washer. See earlier posts that mention reducing washers.

The conversion could be made at the wall, and use a 1-1/4 trap, or at the input to a 1-1/2 inch trap.
 

RMO194

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That Nibco you just posted is glue on, and not screw on.

You can convert from 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 with a reducing washer. See earlier posts that mention reducing washers.

The conversion could be made at the wall, and use a 1-1/4 trap, or at the input to a 1-1/2 inch trap.
I have a 1-1/4 trap, so I plan to convert at the wall. Is the adapter installed at the wall, and then the 45 elbow attached to the adapter? And do you have a link to a Home Depot adapter that would be screw on? Thanks in advance!
 

Reach4

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Try screwing this right onto your pipe, and use the reducing washer. Stick your trap into one of these: The description does say it comes with a reducing washer.

Clean the pipe threads as best you can. Use pipe dope and/or ptfe tape.
 
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Reach4

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What is at the wall?
If (1.25 double slip joint 45) and (a trap adapter at the wall), you would need to have a short section of 1.25 OD slip joint pipe between the wall and the 45. You might have that available after shortening the trap arm of your 1.25 p-trap.

Or cut a 1-1/4 in. Double Offset and put the cut end into the wall.

Or get a 1-1/2 in. Double Offset and put the cut end into the trap adapter at wall, and put the reducing washer on the not-cut end.

Lots of options.

Did you get the nut and reducing washer already, or did you think the SJ 45 was going to somehow attach to the pipe from the wall?
 

Reach4

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I am not so sure the 45 won't do the job, and I don't know if you will find a slip 22.5.
You may have cut your p-trap trap arm too short. The U of the trap should swing out some, and then a longer trap arm may meet up with your 45.

I think you may also need a tailpiece extension to get the height right.
 

Jeff H Young

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there ya go almost have it I guess that's easier than my suggestion about using a threaded 45.
 

Reach4

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there ya go almost have it I guess thats easier than my suggestion about using a threaded 45.
The threaded 45 would have had the advantage of starting the bend closer to the wall. That trap now looks maxed out (vertical plane of the U is right angles to the vertical plane of the trap arm) to be inline with the 45 as is. But if it reaches, that's great.
 

Terry

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I do service calls. One time my brother flew me out to Arlington Virginia for some plumbing work. I was also able to go to his work place in DC and have coffee with Ralph Nader.
Just send me a round trip ticket and a bunch of money and I can swing out there.

TerryP1010037.jpg


Okay, the main floor here. Coffee with Ralph was in the basement in DC.
This was in 2001 right after 911
Also went to Manhatten that trip.
 

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Reach4

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Easy and cheap would be to switch to a 90 slip joint elbow instead of a 45. It might have to be out farther from the wall. A 45 is generally better than a 90, but being slip joint, it would be really easy to take apart if you had a clog.

This would be cheap and quick from Lowes.

A flexible tailpiece extension from Lowes would also be cheap and quick from Lowes. But that one is frowned on by a lot of people. I am not so sure. It will look less professonal than the 90.

But in direct answer to your question.
Is such a screw-on brass 45 something that can be found at Lowe's?
Not that I could find. Also, when you screwed that on, you would have to insure clearance with the stop valve to the right.

And you would want to assess if that is going to fit before ordering stuff.


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Everflow-BRFL0112-NL-1-1-2-FIP-45-Degree-Brass-Elbow-Lead-Free is where I find it. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-46142-1-1-2-Copper-DWV-Male-Trap-Adapter-M-x-Slip-Joint would be a trap adapter.

Another option would be an offset tailpiece or double offset piece. Vertical distance would need to be checked. To gain vertical distance, you would probably have to shorten your metal tailpiece, and even then I am not sure there is enough. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-240-9051C50-1-1-4-22-GA-CP-Offset is metal, but they exist in plastic. That one is 1-1/4 but 1-1/2 are commonly available. I figured the 1-1/4 might be shorter, but I did not find dimensions.

What you really would like is the mythical wide-U trap as in my avatar. That is not a real thing AFAIK. It sure would simplify things for you and some other people. So it ought to exist IMO.
 
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RMO194

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Easy and cheap would be to switch to a 90 slip joint elbow instead of a 45. It might have to be out farther from the wall. A 45 is generally better than a 90, but being slip joint, it would be really easy to take apart if you had a clog.

This would be cheap and quick from Lowes.

A flexible tailpiece extension from Lowes would also be cheap and quick from Lowes. But that one is frowned on by a lot of people. I am not so sure. It will look less professonal than the 90.

But in direct answer to your question.

Not that I could find. Also, when you screwed that on, you would have to insure clearance with the stop valve to the right.

And you would want to assess if that is going to fit before ordering stuff.


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Everflow-BRFL0112-NL-1-1-2-FIP-45-Degree-Brass-Elbow-Lead-Free is where I find it. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-46142-1-1-2-Copper-DWV-Male-Trap-Adapter-M-x-Slip-Joint would be a trap adapter.

Another option would be an offset tailpiece or double offset piece. Vertical distance would need to be checked. To gain vertical distance, you would probably have to shorten your metal tailpiece, and even then I am not sure there is enough. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-240-9051C50-1-1-4-22-GA-CP-Offset is metal, but they exist in plastic. That one is 1-1/4 but 1-1/2 are commonly available. I figured the 1-1/4 might be shorter, but I did not find dimensions.

What you really would like is the mythical wide-U trap as in my avatar. That is not a real thing AFAIK. It sure would simplify things for you and some other people. So it ought to exist IMO.
I have a Ferguson plumbing supply store very close to me. https://www.ferguson.com
Would they have these?
 

RMO194

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OK, I'm feeling this is it! Could I get some confirmation from the experts? I changed the 45 to a 90, and went from a 1-1/4 p-trap to a 1-1/2. Thanks Reach4! I really like how the piece that fits into the 90 stays parallel to the ground at just the right height.
 

wwhitney

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I really like how the piece that fits into the 90 stays parallel to the ground at just the right height.
To be exact, nothing should be parallel to the ground, if the ground is level. All the horizontals need to be sloped 2%.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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