Replacing Pedestal Sink with Vanity

[RMO194]

Big difference. IPC. https://www.ci.independence.mo.us/userdocs/ComDev/2018 INTL PLUMBING CODE.pdf

https://westernrooter.com/plumbing-glossary/ is a good list.
FIP is the same as FNPT (female National Pipe Taper). MIP is Male. On Supply house they might just say M and F in descriptions.

You're awesome, Reach4. Knowing that I am in a IPC location, does your original recommendation stand (those links to the Home Depot parts)?

I take it that others began listing other parts was due to thinking that I was under UPC codes??

 

[Reach4]

You're awesome, Reach4. Knowing that I am in a IPC location, does your original recommendation stand (those links to the Home Depot parts)?

Yes, but only as a solution-- an inexpensive solution.

The other solutions are good too. A 45 elbow may be a more elegant solution.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RMO194]

Yes, but only as a solution-- an inexpensive solution.

The other solutions are good too. A 45 elbow may be a more elegant solution.

A 45 elbow, like that Durham one that Jeff H Young suggested? To me, it doesn't make sense to mix iron and plastic. Am I missing something?

 

[wwhitney]

As you have a tubular connection at the wall, the tubular solution Reach4 proposed is fine, since you live in a suburb of Kansas City (and are subject to the IPC), rather than in Kansas City proper (which would apparently mean you are subject to the UPC). The only possible hiccup I foresee is if you want to maintain that escutcheon at the wall, the tubular 45 may end up far enough away from the wall that the trap geometry is difficult. Also if the current escutcheon is for 1-1/4" tubular, you'd need a 1-1/2" tubular escutcheon.

Another possible tubular solution would be to take the offset Reach4 pointed to, cut it into two 45 degree SJ x spigot sections, and use them to offset the tailpiece. [Sorry if this was already mentioned and I missed it.] That would obviously require a 1-1/2" tubular trap, with the 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" transition taking place at the upstream most SJ connection. Or else finding a 1-1/4" version of the double 45 SJ offset.

Depending on what exactly is behind the escutcheon at the wall, a non-tubular solution might be more elegant, but not really otherwise better.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[RMO194]

Thanks again. Assuming I go with the slip joint (and not an elbow) at the wall, do I need to get a Trap Adapter, or does the Reducing Washer serve that purpose? Also, should I need any additional PVC pipe--or should I have all that I need with the Offset Trap and P-Trap?

 

[wwhitney]

The photo you posted, behind the escutcheon there should be a slip joint connection. I'm pretty confident the tailpiece on the sink is 1-1/4" OD tubular. Not as sure about the trap and the piece sticking out of the wall. I see 3 possibilities:

1) The pipe sticking out of the wall is 1-1/2" OD tubular. Then you have a 1-1/2" SJ connection behind the escutcheon. You can use Reach4's suggestion. You'll need a 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" reducing slip joint washer at the place where you want to connect a 1-1/4" OD tube to a 1-1/2" SJ connection. That could be the trap inlet if you use a 1-1/2" tubular trap, or it could be at the 45 degree elbow inlet if you use a 1-1/4" tubular trap.

2) The pipe sticking out of the wall is 1-1/4" OD tubular, but the SJ connection behind the escutcheon is a 1-1/2" SJ connection with a reducing washer. Your options are the same as in (1) above.

3) The pipe sticking out of the wall is 1-1/4" OD tubular, and the SJ connection behind the escutcheon is a 1-1/4" SJ connection. [The DWV pipe in the wall has a 1-1/4" trap adapter installed on it.] Then for a totally tubular solution, you'd need to find a 1-1/4" 45 degree tubular elbow, and you'd use a 1-1/4" tubular trap, and no reducing washers.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

A 45 elbow, like that Durham one that Jeff H Young suggested? To me, it doesn't make sense to mix iron and plastic. Am I missing something?

If there is a problem, it's not with mixing iron and plastic. Iron+iron is not better.

Now maybe malleable iron rusts slowly and would be good for 100 years. I don't know.

Also, should I need any additional PVC pipe--or should I have all that I need with the Offset Trap and P-Trap?

PVC? Or do you mean the new white drain plastic which is polypropylene, or are you implying that the threads already coming out the wall are pvc?

 

[John Gayewski]

Repeat.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zurn-Open-Grid-Offset-Drain-Strainer/5000485137?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-PLA_PLB_208_Plumbing-Repair-_-5000485137-_-online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAip-PBhDVARIsAPP2xc0Kswkq21VxGqGFQF-pS5iEa1edwmf4nne2_9j0X7v33EAOp9HKslkaAtZ-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[RMO194]

If there is a problem, it's not with mixing iron and plastic. Iron+iron is not better.

Now maybe malleable iron rusts slowly and would be good for 100 years. I don't know.

PVC? Or do you mean the new white drain plastic which is polypropylene, or are you implying that the threads already coming out the wall are pvc?

I removed the chrome piece that was in the wall (see photo to follow). The wall opening is 1-1/2, and the chrome piece is 1-1/4. You can see the reducing washer on it.

 

[RMO194]

Here is the photo.

https://flic.kr/p/2mYd1u3

 

[Reach4]

I removed the chrome piece that was in the wall (see photo to follow). The wall opening is 1-1/2, and the chrome piece is 1-1/4. You can see the reducing washer on it.

That sure seems different than what I thought I saw in this photo:

So now are you going to need to find 1-1/4 inch double offset to make a slip joint 45? Here is one in chrome"

Oatey 1-1/4 in. 20-Gauge Chrome-Plated Brass Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Pipe Offset C1046-1 - The Home Depot

1-1/4 in. Double Slip Joint Trap Offset features outstanding strength. Options include brass nuts. Available in 1-1/4 in. or 1-1/2 in. double slip joint traps.

www.homedepot.com

It's a little harder to cut than plastic, but not bad. I would think cutoff wheel in an angle grinder if I had one, or a very fine blade hacksaw.

 

[RMO194]

That sure seems different than what I thought I saw in this photo:



So now are you going to need to find 1-1/4 inch double offset to make a slip joint 45? Here is one in chrome"

Oatey 1-1/4 in. 20-Gauge Chrome-Plated Brass Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Pipe Offset C1046-1 - The Home Depot

1-1/4 in. Double Slip Joint Trap Offset features outstanding strength. Options include brass nuts. Available in 1-1/4 in. or 1-1/2 in. double slip joint traps.

www.homedepot.com

It's a little harder to cut than plastic, but not bad. I would think cutoff wheel in an angle grinder if I had one, or a very fine blade hacksaw.

I will be using PVC, not chrome. Chrome is just what the pedestal sink used. With the new vanity, all plumbing will be enclosed in the cabinet. All other bathroom sink plumbing in the house uses PVC.

 

[wwhitney]

So now are you going to need to find 1-1/4 inch double offset to make a slip joint 45?

I don't see why. The OP says there was a reducing washer, so it's a 1-1/2" trap adapter, and can accept a 1-1/2" tubular pipe with 45 degree bend.

BTW, another option is to use a a 1-1/2" trap along with a Pasco "Freedom Arm".

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

I don't see why. The OP says there was a reducing washer, so it's a 1-1/2" trap adapter, and can accept a 1-1/2" tubular pipe with 45 degree bend.

Good point.

 

[RMO194]

So no problem mixing the chrome with plastic tubing? Sorry, I may have used the wrong terminology earlier. By 'PVC,' I meant white plastic (or as I have learned--polypropylene). Thanks again, guys!

 

[John Gayewski]

So no problem mixing the chrome with plastic tubing? Sorry, I may have used the wrong terminology earlier. By 'PVC,' I meant white plastic (or as I have learned--polypropylene). Thanks again, guys!

Almost all chrome trap assemblies drain into plastic nowadays. So no, no problem.

 

[RMO194]

Can a J-bend be used in place of a P-trap? Thanks again everyone!

 

[John Gayewski]

Can a J-bend be used in place of a P-trap? Thanks again everyone!

Take a picture. I don't think a j bend is a thing.

 

[Reach4]

Can a J-bend be used in place of a P-trap? Thanks again everyone!

A J-bend is the low part of a p-trap. https://images.thdstatic.com/produc...n/white-oatey-pvc-fittings-hdc9654-64_100.jpg If you buy the whole p-trap, you know that the pieces are going to fit together.

Did you get pieces? What is the problem? Maybe make a new photo with the new pieces and show what doesn't fit right.

 

[RMO194]

Is this the 45 elbow I need?

Oatey 1-1/2 in. 45-Degree White Plastic Double Slip-Joint Sink Drain Elbow Pipe C9665 - The Home Depot

1-1/2 in. Plastic 45-Degree Slip Joint Elbow can be used to repair sink trap tubing. The elbow has a maximum working pressure of 15 psi. The elbow includes a captured PVC nut.

www.homedepot.com

If so, is this the adapter I would then need?

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White Plastic Threaded Sink Drain Pipe Adapter with Slip-Joint Nut and Washer C9000A - The Home Depot

Use Everbilt's 1-1/2 in. PVC threaded trap adapter to maintain your drain's flow performance. Designed to fit most tubular drain application, this universal adapter is constructed from PVC plastic and

www.homedepot.com