Replacing Pedestal Sink with Vanity

[RMO194]

I am removing a pedestal sink and installing a vanity in its place. The drain and the p-trap are not lining up with the old plumbing (a little more than an inch apart). I know not to use flex pipe. The existing pipes are galvanized; I am assuming it best to start over with PVC.

I was hoping for recommendations and part names for a clean install for a DIYer.

Thanks in advance!
Ryan

 

[John Gayewski]

I am removing a pedestal sink and installing a vanity in its place. The drain and the p-trap are not lining up with the old plumbing (a little more than an inch apart). I know not to use flex pipe. The existing pipes are galvanized; I am assuming it best to start over with PVC.

I was hoping for recommendations and part names for a clean install for a DIYer.

Thanks in advance!
Ryan

Take a picture of your problem. Hard to know what you mean by an inch off.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

How about a photo? You want to put a trap adapter at the wall, and use a slip joint p-trap to connect to the tailpiece of the sink.

The p-trap can be like A or B in the photo -- whatever fits best.

Those are easier if there is a couple of inch or so offset, but may work fine. If you use a 1-1/4 p-trap it is more likely to fit.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

RE: a photo -- I am getting the error, 'The uploaded file is too large for the server to process'. Is this common?

Yes. In a photo editing software you need to resize the photo so that the largest dimension is 800 pixels or less.

Since there are so many configurations of vanities with either drawers or just cabinets or shelves, its hard to come up with a one sized fits all scenario.

However since you had a pedestal, and their installs are usually pretty tight you should be able to get the swing of a p-trap to hit the center of the drain. Reach4 has a picture that indicates the swing that traps are capable.

 

[RMO194]

Finally, here is that photo. Thanks again!

 

[Reach4]

Can you unscrew that chrome piece at the wall, and if you do that, what do you have?

Do you have a 1-1/2 inch pipe thread (about 1.900 inch OD)?

 

[RMO194]

Can you unscrew that chrome piece at the wall, and if you do that, what do you have?

Do you have a 1-1/2 inch pipe thread (about 1.900 inch OD)?

Yes, I just checked this evening, and the chrome trap simply unscrews. From what I've read, the waste trap is 1 1/2, while the p-trap is 1 1/4, so an adapter is necessary.

 

[Reach4]

Based on the photo, I think I would screw a washer and slip joint nut to the end of the 1.5 inch pipe coming out of the wall.
You could use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2698C/205154062 for plastic nut and washer.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-985-6-1-1-2-Die-Cast-Slip-Nuts-Chrome-Plated is a chrome plated metal nut. Still needs a washer.

Alternatively, you could screw FIP trap adapter onto the thread at the wall if that plastic nut and washer doesn't work for some reason.

BrassCraft 1-1/2 in. O.D. Compression x 1-1/2 in. FIP Brass Waste Connector with Tube Stop in Rough Finish-197CX - The Home Depot

BrassCraft 1-1/2 in. O.D. compression x 1-1/2 in. FIP waste connector with tube stop, with a rough brass body and nut. This adaptor is used to connect the p-trap to the drainage systems. It has an extruded

www.homedepot.com

Cut one of these in half.

The Plumber's Choice 1-1/2 in. Polypropylene Offset Trap for Tubular Drain Applications-22212P - The Home Depot

The Plumber's Choice offers a broad range of high quality plumbing products, to fit all your commercial and residential needs. Our tubular drainage products are manufactured with highly durable polypropylene

www.homedepot.com

That one is plastic, but they also sell chrome.
Stick the cut end into the nut at the wall, and point the uncut end toward the trap. Then run a trap into that. I have shown plastic pieces, but they are all available in chrome too.

So at some point you use a reducing washer to adapt 1-1/4 to 1-1/2. That can be done at the input to the 1-1/2 inch trap.

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White Plastic Sink Drain P-Trap with Reversible J-Bend C9704B - The Home Depot

The Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Plastic P-Trap is made using durable polypropylene plastic and ideal for tubular drain applications. Easy to install and includes a leak proof washer, reversible J-bend and threaded

www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Sink Drain Pipe Plastic Slip-Joint Nut with Rubber Reducing Washers C2698C - The Home Depot

Features of the 1.5 in. Plastic Slip Joint Nut include a polypropylene construction for added durability. It is finished in white and designed for use in tubular drain applications. Sizes are in 1.25 in. or 1.5 in.

www.homedepot.com

 

[RMO194]

Based on the photo, I think I would screw a washer and slip joint nut to the end of the 1.5 inch pipe coming out of the wall.
You could use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2698C/205154062 for plastic nut and washer.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-985-6-1-1-2-Die-Cast-Slip-Nuts-Chrome-Plated is a chrome plated metal nut. Still needs a washer.

Alternatively, you could screw FIP trap adapter onto the thread at the wall if that plastic nut and washer doesn't work for some reason.

BrassCraft 1-1/2 in. O.D. Compression x 1-1/2 in. FIP Brass Waste Connector with Tube Stop in Rough Finish-197CX - The Home Depot

BrassCraft 1-1/2 in. O.D. compression x 1-1/2 in. FIP waste connector with tube stop, with a rough brass body and nut. This adaptor is used to connect the p-trap to the drainage systems. It has an extruded

www.homedepot.com

Cut one of these in half.

The Plumber's Choice 1-1/2 in. Polypropylene Offset Trap for Tubular Drain Applications-22212P - The Home Depot

The Plumber's Choice offers a broad range of high quality plumbing products, to fit all your commercial and residential needs. Our tubular drainage products are manufactured with highly durable polypropylene

www.homedepot.com

That one is plastic, but they also sell chrome.
Stick the cut end into the nut at the wall, and point the uncut end toward the trap. Then run a trap into that. I have shown plastic pieces, but they are all available in chrome too.

So at some point you use a reducing washer to adapt 1-1/4 to 1-1/2. That can be done at the input to the 1-1/2 inch trap.

Oatey 1-1/2 in. White Plastic Sink Drain P-Trap with Reversible J-Bend C9704B - The Home Depot

The Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Plastic P-Trap is made using durable polypropylene plastic and ideal for tubular drain applications. Easy to install and includes a leak proof washer, reversible J-bend and threaded

www.homedepot.com

Everbilt 1-1/2 in. Sink Drain Pipe Plastic Slip-Joint Nut with Rubber Reducing Washers C2698C - The Home Depot

Features of the 1.5 in. Plastic Slip Joint Nut include a polypropylene construction for added durability. It is finished in white and designed for use in tubular drain applications. Sizes are in 1.25 in. or 1.5 in.

www.homedepot.com

This is great, Reach4! I assume I will also need this (I am going with PVC, not chrome)?

Oatey 8 oz. Purple CPVC and PVC Primer and Regular Clear PVC Cement Combo Pack 302483 - The Home Depot

The Oatey 8 oz. Purple Primer and PVC Regular Clear Cement Handy Pack gives you everything you need for a smooth installation and convenient storage, at the best value. Recommended for DWV, pressure pipe,

www.homedepot.com

 

[Reach4]

This is great, Reach4! I assume I will also need this (I am going with PVC, not chrome)?

Oatey 8 oz. Purple CPVC and PVC Primer and Regular Clear PVC Cement Combo Pack 302483 - The Home Depot

The Oatey 8 oz. Purple Primer and PVC Regular Clear Cement Handy Pack gives you everything you need for a smooth installation and convenient storage, at the best value. Recommended for DWV, pressure pipe,

www.homedepot.com

I presumed a threaded connection at the wall. Then screwing something to that-- ideally a slip joint nut.

So nothing I envision would involve pvc cement. The white plastic on the slip joint parts is polypropylene. No glue. Just cut to length, fit together, and tighten the nuts to clamp washers around the actual 1.5 inch OD tubes.

Slip joint gives easy adjustablity. It also comes apart for cleaning if the need for that ever comes up.

 

[wwhitney]

FWIW, the UPC only allows one slip joint fitting after the trap, which would be the trap adapter.

Chapter 10 Traps and Interceptors: Traps and Interceptors, California Plumbing Code 2019 | UpCodes

UpCodes offers a consolidated resource of construction and building code grouped by jurisdiction

up.codes

So if you are subject to the UPC (I'm unclear on the Kansas City plumbing code), then the proper solution would be to add a threaded or solvent weld 45 at the wall, then a trap adapter that can accept the trap outlet directly.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

FWIW, the UPC only allows one slip joint fitting after the trap, which would be the trap adapter.

Interesting. So no slip joint 45 at the wall if UPC, and it looks like KC itself uses UPC. Most of MO is IPC.

I looked for a 1.5 NPT street 45 in brass, bronze, or plastic, and did not find.

If no better solution found, maybe use the old LA form trap, and jog the tailpiece.

Or just use 2 slip joints before the trap, and expect nobody will care.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I think reach 4 PVC tubular offset be fine . might be and probably is a code issue . so yea you'll have a slip joint there. got tons of them on double and triple kitchen sinks . I wouldn't prefer that but don't consider it overly shoddy under the circumstances.

What's wrong with screwing a 1 1/2 durham 45 on there?

 

[wwhitney]

I looked for a 1.5 NPT street 45 in brass, bronze, or plastic, and did not find.

There's been some discussion in the past that while a 1-1/2" MIP end and a 1-1/2" trap adapter have the same threads, the radial cross section on the trap adapter is somewhat different, more of a bevel inner edge for a slip joint washer to seal to. I.e. a 1-1/2" MIP trap adapter is a little different from a 1-1/2" nipple.

So it would probably be better to use a 1-1/2" FIP x FIP 45 degree elbow and a 1-1/2" MIP trap adapter, anyway.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Reach4]

So it would probably be better to use a 1-1/2" FIP x FIP 45 degree elbow

Here is a schedule 80 one in CPVC. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-819-015C-1-1-2-FPT-CPVC-Schedule-80-45-Elbow

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Everflow-BRFL0112-NL-1-1-2-FIP-45-Degree-Brass-Elbow-Lead-Free is brass.

Note for a trap adapter, see https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=trap adapter m
I suspect the photo is wrong for the
1-1/2 x 1-1/4" Copper DWV Male Trap Adapter (M x Slip Joint)
SKU: 46144 Elkhart

 

[John Gayewski]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zurn-Open-Grid-Offset-Drain-Strainer/5000485137?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-PLA_PLB_208_Plumbing-Repair-_-5000485137-_-online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAip-PBhDVARIsAPP2xc0Kswkq21VxGqGFQF-pS5iEa1edwmf4nne2_9j0X7v33EAOp9HKslkaAtZ-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[RMO194]

Ugh, feeling a little overwhelmed with all the recent replies and new abbreviations (MIP, FIP, etc.).

I am actually in a Kansas City suburb (Independence, MO), if that makes a difference. In light of the new information, has the recommended parts changed from Reach4's original suggestion?

Thanks for your patience and help everyone!
Ryan

 

[Reach4]

I am actually in a Kansas City suburb (Independence, MO), if that makes a difference.

Big difference. IPC. https://www.ci.independence.mo.us/userdocs/ComDev/2018 INTL PLUMBING CODE.pdf

https://westernrooter.com/plumbing-glossary/ is a good list.
FIP is the same as FNPT (female National Pipe Taper). MIP is Male. On Supply house they might just say M and F in descriptions.

 

[Jeff H Young]

its a simple fix unless I missed something . screw a 22 or 45 on ! same as I said before as did Wayne, I don't think I ever used or saw a plastic one but they probably make one for drainage . I was talking Durham but same thing easy as heck.

 

[Reach4]

I was talking Durham but same thing easy as heck.

Iron?