Replacing outdoor spigot, setup not like Youtube vids

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The harrymanimus

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I've never done this so my go to is Youtube usually. But the ones I find aren't helpful.

I have nothing to grip to to prevent the pipe going into the wall from turning. The grip-able hex part of the pipe is in the wall. When I turn the spigot with a wrench, the pipe in the wall turns. Maybe that is the way it is supposed to be and I need one of those spigots with a length of pipe on there, like 6 inches or something. I just don't want to break something.

Advice?
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Thanks
 
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Jadnashua

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When you loosen a threaded fitting, unless you take it apart and add fresh pipe dope, it may leak. This is probably a two person job...one inside holding the pipe, and the second, loosening the valve from the pipe. You could just let the pipe come loose inside, put a new valve on the stub, then put some pipe dope on the end and tighten things back up...but, it might be hard to align since you can't see it. That is not a frost-freeze sillcock. Those would have a length inside (the actual valve seat is way back at the end inside the wall). But, if the pipe is not sloped towards the outside, adding one wouldn't work, since it could not drain properly. Someone did install a vacuum breaker on the old valve. A new one would likely have that built-in.

If there isn't a fitting inside, turning could just end up twisting the pipe and damaging it.
 

The harrymanimus

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When you loosen a threaded fitting, unless you take it apart and add fresh pipe dope, it may leak. This is probably a two person job...one inside holding the pipe, and the second, loosening the valve from the pipe. You could just let the pipe come loose inside, put a new valve on the stub, then put some pipe dope on the end and tighten things back up...but, it might be hard to align since you can't see it. That is not a frost-freeze sillcock. Those would have a length inside (the actual valve seat is way back at the end inside the wall). But, if the pipe is not sloped towards the outside, adding one wouldn't work, since it could not drain properly. Someone did install a vacuum breaker on the old valve. A new one would likely have that built-in.

If there isn't a fitting inside, turning could just end up twisting the pipe and damaging it.

With this, there isn't an "inside" place to hold/stabalize the pipe, it's in the wall. Would a plumber do anything different than just turn it? Do they have some special tool? My wife had a plumber replace this many years ago I'm assuming that is just what they did. So I'm thinking I "might" just go ahead and unscrew, put new spigot on the pipe that comes out, and yes it might be difficult to line up putting in back in, but just a bunch of trying should get it I'd hope. Do plumbers have a technique for aligning? A larger pipe that goes over the pipe in the wall?
 

Reach4

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I would do as you say. Click Inbox, above. I am not a plumber.
 

Dj2

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Can you tell what type of nipple you have inside the wall? A threaded brass/galv nipple or a short copper pipe?
 

Jadnashua

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If it turns fairly easily, there must be a fitting inside. If it doesn't, you're just twisting the pipe and will damage things. Depending on the length of the nipple, it may be fairly easy to align the pipe to get it started. You do not want to cross-thread it, though. You should be able to start it by hand without needing a wrench. COde does require a vacuum breaker on the valve...you could either buy a new one with it, or they sell add-on ones.

FWIW, if it's just leaking a little, you might be able to just replace the sealing washer. Some of those may not have a removable valve seat, but if it does, replacing both the valve seat and the washer would return it to like new condition.
 
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