Replacing Media on my H2S+iron filter.

Users who are viewing this thread

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,202
Reaction score
4,736
Points
113
Location
IL
I am in the process of replacing the Centaur Carbon media on my H2S+iron filter.

5600SXT valve. 10x54 tank. Metal 3/4 inch bypass. Rigid copper plumbing.

I removed the screws holding the clips that hold the valve to the bypass. Wrestled the tank away from the wall. To loosen the valve, I used my biggest pipe wrench to turn the plastic ring molded into the valve housing. Measured 4.1 inch diameterI was surprised that the distributor tube lifted up as I pulled the valve up. I twisted and pulled the distributor tube against the top basket. Got it apart.

Top basket has a lot of rust on the fine slots. Is that readily separable from the valve body for easier cleaning?

Could not lift the distributor tube out due to ceiling clearance. I did have the bottom basket on top of the media, but could not make the turn.

I sucked out water and media by running a piece of 3/4 pex (had on hand) down beside the distributor tube. Used my hand and later a shop rag to close the gap between the wet vac's 2.5 inch hose and the pex.

Still working on that aspect. I am not in a big hurry. Filter in bypass is not that bad.

For now, any comment on removing that top basket from the valve body?

I can soak in iron out without wetting the main part of the valve.

I switched to a 2 inch PVC pipe to stick into the tank to suck media. That went a lot faster.

To be continued...
 
Last edited:

Rjh2o

Member
Messages
80
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Location
Michigan
I am in the process of replacing the Centaur Carbon media on my H2S+iron filter.

5600SXT valve. 10x54 tank. Metal 3/4 inch bypass. Rigid copper plumbing.

I removed the screws holding the clips that hold the valve to the bypass. Wrestled the tank away from the wall. To loosen the valve, I used my biggest pipe wrench to turn the plastic ring molded into the valve housing. Measured 4.1 inch diameterI was surprised that the distributor tube lifted up as I pulled the valve up. I twisted and pulled the distributor tube against the top basket. Got it apart.

Top basket has a lot of rust on the fine slots. Is that readily separable from the valve body for easier cleaning?

Could not lift the distributor tube out due to ceiling clearance. I did have the bottom basket on top of the media, but could not make the turn.

I sucked out water and media by running a piece of 3/4 pex (had on hand) down beside the distributor tube. Used my hand and later a shop rag to close the gap between the wet vac's 2.5 inch hose and the pex.

Still working on that aspect. I am not in a big hurry. Filter in bypass is not that bad.

For now, any comment on removing that top basket from the valve body?

I can soak in iron out without wetting the main part of the valve.

I switched to a 2 inch PVC pipe to stick into the tank to suck media. That went a lot faster.

To be continued...
The basket on the bottom of the fleck valve is not designed to be removed once it is installed. It is there to prevent media from being backwashed out during regeneration. You can clean it with a brush and just flush it with water. It generally gets plugged with precipitated iron and can cause low water pressure through the iron filter. Also while you have the whole thing apart I would at the very least take the valve apart, clean it thoroughly, and lubricate the piston and shaft with some silicone lube. Take the injector housing apart as well and clean it. It's best just to put a new nozzle, and throat in the assembly. Depending on the age I would consider putting a new piston and seals in it.
RJ

1651465449280.png
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,202
Reaction score
4,736
Points
113
Location
IL
Not with my media. I could see it in lower concentration to treat softener resin.

It looked impressive -- what came off. But it did not do its H2S job after. Not doing its H2S job was what motivated my efforts. So now I know. Just swap Centaur Carbon media.
 

Skyjumper

Member
Messages
213
Reaction score
8
Points
18
Location
Midwest
the top basket is a pain to remove. easier to just cut it off and replace. or just soak the whole valve body/basket in iron out to clean it.

you could tilt the tank to pull the riser? or just cut it and replace it and the bottom basket. either way you're going to have to get the tank out of your basement to empty and clean it. then bring it back downstairs, tilt/insert the riser and refill the media. when i replaced my softener resin I just bought a new tank and got it all ready to go, then just swapped tanks, and dealt with the old tank some months later. now I have a spare tank I can prep for next time.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
40,202
Reaction score
4,736
Points
113
Location
IL
1. Top basket was hard to remove. I soaked in in Iron Out. And then use as much force as I could, and it came. Did not need to save it, but I did.

2. I was able to pull the riser until I hit the basement ceiling/joists right away. Surprised, me. I sucked out water and some media. Then tilted to pull the thing on an angle. I then used a 56 inch long piece of 2 inch PVC to extend the wet vac hose. Sucked up media much faster that way.

Took the empty tank outside, and sprayed with hose to remove residuals.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks