Replacing leaky shut offs that need to be used daily

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Wade D

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I have the need to be able to turn my sink shut offs on and off nightly as my mother with dementia is now living with us and most mornings lately, I find she has left a sink running hot water down the drain for who knows how long. Nothing has overflowed, so no damage other than to my water and gas bills.

I've looked in to alternatives and haven't found any good ones. Automatic faucets are a pain in the butt at the kitchen sink when doing dishes and my wife doesn't want them... plus mom can never make them work right in public restrooms, so I'm sure she won't be able to use them at home. Every other product I've found, like little valves that install at the aerator, is too gimmicky/unreliable/fragile

My home is 20 year old construction and the shut off valves throughout the house are cheap Eastman Speedflex that are starting to drip when I turn them on and off and have to be 'finessed' into JUST the right position so they don't drip. I want to replace them with something less leak prone and easier to turn on and off in case my kids need to turn the sinks on for themselves during the night or in case I forget to turn them back on in the mornings.

I figure while I'm at it, I'll just replace the other shut offs in the house (toilets, dishwasher, etc.) so that they are updated and less likely to fail from age when they are needed.

I believe that the pipe is CPVC and the old Eastmans (they look like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eastman-...ompression-Angle-Stop-Valve-04345LF/205995240) have the glued on female threaded connections similar to Dahl 611-46-31, which is the part I am thinking of replacing them with.

First question: Is the Dahl part 611-46-31 the very best valve for my application? I really want the best because I need it to be reliable and durable for daily on-off use and because it is CPVC, if I have to cut pipe every time I replace valves, I don't want to run out of pipe or have to splice, so I'd rather just change this ONCE. If there is some better valve, please let me know.

Next question: Would I be able to leave the glued on female threaded Eastman piece on the CPVC pipe and just screw off the Eastman valve, clean the threads and teflon tape then, then thread on the Dahl valves without having to cut the pipe and glue on the threads that come with the Dahl valve? If the threads are standard between brands, I assume this would work okay and all of the moving parts of the valve would still be replaced. Then I don't have to worry about straight cuts in some very hard to reach places or pipes that are too short to easily glue a new threaded end on to if I have to cut off the old end first. If I really can't just leave the old threads on, that would be okay, but I'd rather if possible as it is one less failure point for me to mess up and it will save a bit of time with the 14 or so shut offs that I will be swapping out, bearing in mind that I will be doing this work while still caring for my mother, and she will interrupt me... OFTEN.

Thanks so much for any input.
 
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hj

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Why not just install a solenoid valve on the water line where it enters the house with a switch located where she cannot get to it, but you, the wife, and kids could when they need water. ANY fixture angle stop is going to fail if it is used daily, since they are not made for that kind of usage.
 

Cwhyu2

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The Dahl valve will work and is good valve it may or may not thread on the old adapter.
 

Wade D

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Why not just install a solenoid valve on the water line where it enters the house with a switch located where she cannot get to it, but you, the wife, and kids could when they need water. ANY fixture angle stop is going to fail if it is used daily, since they are not made for that kind of usage.

Partly because I don't want to turn of the water to the whole house at night. Really just two or three sinks. I still want the toilets, ice maker, washing machine, dishwasher and master bath to work all of the time. The only reason I would consider doing that is if she started running the bath tub, which she never has. She hasn't been able to get into a tub for 25 years due to injuries, so she isn't in the habit of touching it or the controls on it. So, partly that and partly the expense because I'd not be interested in wiring switches up for each sink, dealing with electrical and all of that. Plus I don't have any idea how long she will live with us to know if it is worth major expense. It just depends on her health. She's been with us for 3 1/2 years and it could be another 10 years or another 3 months if she takes a turn for the worse.

If using quality angle stops for the nightly shut off isn't going to be okay, then plan B is to replace them anyway because the old ones suck, then just hook up some PVC quarter turn ball valves in-line under the sinks... so I'd have a braided line from the stop to the valve, then another braided line from the pvc valve to the sink. Those are pretty cheap and would be super easy to replace if they failed due to use, plus they would save the wear and tear on the stops. Only downside I foresee is that it would look ghetto and have more bulk of lines under the sink than I would prefer, but I'm sure it would okay and would be easy to reverse at such a time it was no longer needed.
 

Jadnashua

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It's fairly common in medical facilities to have a solenoid operated shutoff for areas where they send people to give urine samples, etc. so that they can't just fill the thing with water from the sink.

A typical shutoff valve is not designed for daily use, but a ball-valve (1/4-turn) one should last a fair amount of time. They are not designed for daily use.

The odds of being able to leave the existing part attached to the CPVC may or may not pan out, the threads would have to match. This Dahl valve has a chance of just fitting on the existing stubout with the threaded part left attached. If not, you'd have to cut off the existing and hope there's enough of a stub to attach the new valve.
Dahl valve.jpg
 

Wade D

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Reach4

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First question: Is the Dahl part 611-46-31 the very best valve for my application? I really want the best because I need it to be reliable and durable for daily on-off use and because it is PVC, if I have to cut pipe every time I replace valves, I don't want to run out of pipe or have to splice, so I'd rather just change this ONCE. If there is some better valve, please let me know.
I just noticed that valve is for CPVC. CPVC copper pipe sized (CPS) is smaller than PVC, not to mention the glue situation.

Measure the OD of your plastic pipe to see which you have. 0.840 is iron-pipe sized PVC, and 0.625 for copper-pipe sized CPVC.

I don't know if the thread on that piece of the "Eastman" is a standard thread. You could try to measure the OD of the thread between pieces with your digital caliper.
 
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Wade D

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I just noticed that valve is for CPVC. CPVC is smaller than PVC, not to mention the glue situation.

Sorry, I was guilty of using the terms interchangeably when I know that they aren't. I'm not certain what is in the house, but assume it is CPVC. I'll measure the OD to be sure, because I can't see any identifying markings in the short areas of the stubs. I'll go back and edit my original post.
 

Reach4

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If CPVC, the Sharkbite valves are pretty decent. But yes, the Dahl would be best probably.
 
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