Replacing a main shut-off valve

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Redline

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are there any tricks or potential (obvious) issues to this other than shutting off the water at the curb-stop, breaking the union, un-threading the gate valve and replacing? The valve wont stop dripping (slightly) and you cant tighten the packing nut any further. The galvanized pipe looks worse for wear, but its just been ironically painted "corrosion green" - looks fine under the paint. The house is from 1894, so the galvanized probably replaced lead sometime in the 50-60's.

This is a branch line to an outdoor faucet, but there is no main shut-off in the house (other than the curb stop) since St Louis City doesnt meter water usage. Ie, i have to call the city to come find/turn off the curb-stop, then i can replace the valve, then get them back out to turn it back on.

can i use a ball valve or does it have to be a gate? I will probably just replace everything downstream of the new valve w copper and a new freeze-proof stopcock.
 

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Reach4

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Turn off the valve. Clean the stem between the packing nut and knob. This is to clear the way for the packing nut to slide over the shaft. Maybe use Scotch pad or steel wool.

If dripping slows a lot or stops, as expected, loosen the packing nut and pull toward the knon. Wrap additional packing cord around the shaft between the valve body and the loosened packing nut. I think clockwise. Tighten the packing nut. I am not in position to tell you how much to use.

I like the white PTFE (Teflon) packing cord. Others have a preference for the black kind with graphite.

An alternate would be to remove the handle and pull the packing nut off completely. Pick out the old packing and put in new. I have never done that.

I am not a plumber.
 

Redline

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can i open the packing nut with full pressure behind it (w the valve closed)? I cant turn off the pressure w/o having the city close the curb-stop, at which point i might as well replace the valve...
 

Reach4

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Suppose your valve is like this, and the water comes in from the left. If you close the valve, you should be able to relieve the inside pressure, and only deal with water that comes to the valve from inside due to gravity.

If you close the valve, and loosen the packing nut, and the flow decreases or stops, then you should be good to undo the packing nut more.

valve-packing.jpg
 
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hj

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OPEN the valve all the way. That will keep water from flowing out of the opening when you remove, or loosen, the packing nut. If you close the valve, and it does not completely shut off, the water will flow while you are working on it. But, since that is the worst type of valve for a main shutoff, I would replace it with a ball valve.
 

Michael Young

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are there any tricks or potential (obvious) issues to this other than shutting off the water at the curb-stop, breaking the union, un-threading the gate valve and replacing? The valve wont stop dripping (slightly) and you cant tighten the packing nut any further. The galvanized pipe looks worse for wear, but its just been ironically painted "corrosion green" - looks fine under the paint. The house is from 1894, so the galvanized probably replaced lead sometime in the 50-60's.

This is a branch line to an outdoor faucet, but there is no main shut-off in the house (other than the curb stop) since St Louis City doesnt meter water usage. Ie, i have to call the city to come find/turn off the curb-stop, then i can replace the valve, then get them back out to turn it back on.

can i use a ball valve or does it have to be a gate? I will probably just replace everything downstream of the new valve w copper and a new freeze-proof stopcock.


USE A FULL-PORT BALL VALVE

You're working with Galvanized. GET THAT SHIT OUT OF THERE! You're going to disturb that coat of rust inside that pipe and that rust is going to travel through your water pipes where it will create a blockage or partial blockage somewhere. I strongly suggest you repipe the entire house with brand new pex. Do beautiful work. Color code your hot and cold. Strap it every 3-feet. All perfect straight lines. All you need is some pipe, some fitings and pex rings, and a pex tool from home depot that you can buy for only $60.
 

Redline

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USE A FULL-PORT BALL VALVE

You're working with Galvanized. GET THAT SHIT OUT OF THERE! You're going to disturb that coat of rust inside that pipe and that rust is going to travel through your water pipes where it will create a blockage or partial blockage somewhere. I strongly suggest you repipe the entire house with brand new pex. Do beautiful work. Color code your hot and cold. Strap it every 3-feet. All perfect straight lines. All you need is some pipe, some fitings and pex rings, and a pex tool from home depot that you can buy for only $60.


funny. ill get right on that. (that is no way helpful to my actual question)
 
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