A hole in the drop pipe or the pitless leaking will usually let air into the system. Leaking back but no air from the faucets usually means a bad check valve.
Replacing a Jacuzzi Hydrocel with...?
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Received the CSV1A today; will install it next weekend. I won't be using the two threaded ports currently filled with PVC plugs. Do I need to get brass plugs to fill these ports long term or will the PVC plugs be sufficient? Thank you.
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PVC plugs are good as they will handle more pressure than anything will ever see.
Thank you all!
Closing the loop on this project. Well guy came up and checked both the check valve and the pitless -- both were OK. He tells me: a) the periodic cycling due to loss of pressure is due to a pinhole leak somewhere between the pump and the house; b) the periodic cycling (takes about 10 minutes for pressure to drop from 60 to 40 psi, even with no water use) is not going to hurt the pump; c) when the cycling gets down to a minute or two, it will be time to dig and fix the pinhole leak; and d) he did not laugh at my DIY water system (with your help; thank you very much). Enjoying the constant pressure from the CSV1A!
Thank you and hope you enjoy the CSV for many years. But cycling every 10 minutes is 144 times a day. I would plan of fixing that leak as soon as possible. In the meantime, install another check valve before the CSV and tank. The extra check valve will cause some water hammer on pump start, and maybe some air in the lines, but the pump won't cycle every 10 minutes. You can move the check valve to the pump when you get the leak fixed.
The family cabin where this water system is located is only used periodically, less than a week continuously. When not in use, the pump is off and the system depressurized. When I am there using the cabin, I have taken to turning the pump off at night -- the pressure in the morning is zero, but at least it did not cycle at night when no pressure is necessary. I don't relish the cost or mess of digging up the line to find the leak at this point, but I know both are in my future. The system was installed initially in the early 70s so it has had a good run. The well guy said the pump -- installed in the mid-90s -- is still running strong. I guess I should have had the well guy remove the check valve on the pump so I could install one before the CSV -- which (if I am thinking this through correctly) would "fix" the leak and do so without the water hammer. True?
Valveman was not suggesting removing the check valve at the pump, but rather to add the check valve indoors as a temporizing measure.
I did understand Valveman was suggesting a second check valve. My question is if I install that suggested check valve inside the cabin before the CSV, can I then remove the check valve at the pump thus avoiding the water hammer potential (and at the same time stopping the every-10-minutes cycling of the pump)?
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
No!
Without a check valve at the pump, a leak in the supply line after the pump but before the above ground check valve, will allow air, or potentially contaminated water to be drawn in through the leak while water is draining back down through the pump.
The suggestion to install an above ground check valve, was to be only a quick temporary measure to stop the cycling until the first opportunity to investigate where the leak is occurring so as to perform the appropriate permanent repair.
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And that, gentlemen, is why I come here for advice! Thank you all! Left to my own devices I would have royally messed things up.
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