OldSalt
Member
This supply valve to one of our toilets is frozen up due to corrosion (probably resolved root cause with a new water softener last summer, but ... the fun continues).
When I built this house, I asked the plumbers to use a Pex to copper "L" shaped stub out to mount these valves, for just this reason, but my "pro's" told me "no one in this area uses those things - they just go pex through the wall". I didn't fight it, as I had bigger fish to fry, but I should have required it (or done it myself). Anyhow, I'm now converting these by adding a threaded adapter to use with threaded replacement valves, for any future valve maintenance/replacement.
My problem is, of course, that when I cut this valve off, there will be insufficient pex pipe left in which to attach the adapter, add a copper ring, and crimp it. I won't be able to get the crimping tool in that close to the wall. The first repair I did worked out, because there was some give on the pex through the wall, but the result wasn't a clean repair, either. I'm considering trying one of those "push to connect" Sharkbite type fittings, if I still have enough clean pex pipe to use, but I hate those things - don't trust 'em.
Plan "C" gets ugly. I can do drywall, but I don't like to do drywall, and I don't like project "scope creep" even more.
Any ideas? Better solutions I may have missed. Thanks a bunch!
(Note: If you think you see a leak behind that toilet, you may be right. Could be an active leak, or just dirt and residue from a prior toilet overflow. In any case, this repair proceeds removing and resetting the toilet, using a flange extension kit due to the raised tile floor, which is 3/4" higher than the original flange. Repairing the valve is step 1. Resetting to toilet, etc., step 2.)
When I built this house, I asked the plumbers to use a Pex to copper "L" shaped stub out to mount these valves, for just this reason, but my "pro's" told me "no one in this area uses those things - they just go pex through the wall". I didn't fight it, as I had bigger fish to fry, but I should have required it (or done it myself). Anyhow, I'm now converting these by adding a threaded adapter to use with threaded replacement valves, for any future valve maintenance/replacement.
My problem is, of course, that when I cut this valve off, there will be insufficient pex pipe left in which to attach the adapter, add a copper ring, and crimp it. I won't be able to get the crimping tool in that close to the wall. The first repair I did worked out, because there was some give on the pex through the wall, but the result wasn't a clean repair, either. I'm considering trying one of those "push to connect" Sharkbite type fittings, if I still have enough clean pex pipe to use, but I hate those things - don't trust 'em.
Plan "C" gets ugly. I can do drywall, but I don't like to do drywall, and I don't like project "scope creep" even more.
Any ideas? Better solutions I may have missed. Thanks a bunch!
(Note: If you think you see a leak behind that toilet, you may be right. Could be an active leak, or just dirt and residue from a prior toilet overflow. In any case, this repair proceeds removing and resetting the toilet, using a flange extension kit due to the raised tile floor, which is 3/4" higher than the original flange. Repairing the valve is step 1. Resetting to toilet, etc., step 2.)