Replacing a commode pex-b water supply valve

OldSalt

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This supply valve to one of our toilets is frozen up due to corrosion (probably resolved root cause with a new water softener last summer, but ... the fun continues).

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When I built this house, I asked the plumbers to use a Pex to copper "L" shaped stub out to mount these valves, for just this reason, but my "pro's" told me "no one in this area uses those things - they just go pex through the wall". I didn't fight it, as I had bigger fish to fry, but I should have required it (or done it myself). Anyhow, I'm now converting these by adding a threaded adapter to use with threaded replacement valves, for any future valve maintenance/replacement.

My problem is, of course, that when I cut this valve off, there will be insufficient pex pipe left in which to attach the adapter, add a copper ring, and crimp it. I won't be able to get the crimping tool in that close to the wall. The first repair I did worked out, because there was some give on the pex through the wall, but the result wasn't a clean repair, either. I'm considering trying one of those "push to connect" Sharkbite type fittings, if I still have enough clean pex pipe to use, but I hate those things - don't trust 'em.

Plan "C" gets ugly. I can do drywall, but I don't like to do drywall, and I don't like project "scope creep" even more.

Any ideas? Better solutions I may have missed. Thanks a bunch!

(Note: If you think you see a leak behind that toilet, you may be right. Could be an active leak, or just dirt and residue from a prior toilet overflow. In any case, this repair proceeds removing and resetting the toilet, using a flange extension kit due to the raised tile floor, which is 3/4" higher than the original flange. Repairing the valve is step 1. Resetting to toilet, etc., step 2.)
 

Slomoola

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Could be the supply hose too. Those get cholesterol inside the hose and choke it down and maybe completely off. Are you sure it is the valve? Pull the hose and test the valve for flow.

You might have enough to connect the toilet back up without using a shut off valve. If you are thinking future issues, get rid of this valve. Use your house shut off for future issues. Having shut off valves all over is kinda wasting money. Anything water touches degrades. Only a matter of time till something else needs replaced.

I plumbed my house up in halves. Can shut off one side completely and still have toilets, showers and cooking going in the other side.
 

Reach4

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My problem is, of course, that when I cut this valve off, there will be insufficient pex pipe left in which to attach the adapter, add a copper ring, and crimp it. I won't be able to get the crimping tool in that close to the wall. The first repair I did worked out, because there was some give on the pex through the wall, but the result wasn't a clean repair, either. I'm considering trying one of those "push to connect" Sharkbite type fittings, if I still have enough clean pex pipe to use, but I hate those things - don't trust 'em.
I am not a plumber.

I would consider cutting the ring without damaging the pex. Pull the old valve, and crimp in a new one. I know this is much more easily said than done. If you google remove pex ring you will find people who think it is doable.

I like Sharkbite.

If you are over an accessible area, you could consider fishing copper tubing from below. 3/8 OD is plenty big for filling toilets.


 
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Slomoola

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Is a flood worth all this? Think, a 1/2" pipe running at full bore pressure while you are away.

Have you priced carpet these days? Mold removal?

Have a qualified plumber, whatever that is these days do the work. I would call around insisting they are a master plumber before letting them on my property.

So many of these companies around here hire handymen to plumb houses. My last plumbers had never installed PEX A before. They did everything in PEX B. Told them about the advantages of PEX A. They are now converted to PEX A installs.
 

OldSalt

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Could be the supply hose too. Those get cholesterol inside the hose and choke it down and maybe completely off. Are you sure it is the valve? Pull the hose and test the valve for flow.

You might have enough to connect the toilet back up without using a shut off valve. If you are thinking future issues, get rid of this valve. Use your house shut off for future issues. Having shut off valves all over is kinda wasting money. Anything water touches degrades. Only a matter of time till something else needs replaced.

I plumbed my house up in halves. Can shut off one side completely and still have toilets, showers and cooking going in the other side.
It's the valve. It will only turn part way, won't turn back. It's bound up by corrosion. (Lol, it's happened before on other houses, and once on another commode in this house. This ain't my first rodeo, with this problem. Just looking for a better solution than the one I chose.) I want cut off valves at the toilets - not sure if it's code, but it is for me. A lot flooding can occur before I can reach the main to turn off the house water.
 

OldSalt

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I am not a plumber.

I would consider cutting the ring without damaging the pex. Pull the old valve, and crimp in a new one. I know this is much more easily said than done. If you google remove pex ring you will find people who think it is doable.

I like Sharkbite.

If you are over an accessible area, you could consider fishing copper tubing from below. 3/8 OD is plenty big for filling toilets.


I am not a plumber.

I would consider cutting the ring without damaging the pex. Pull the old valve, and crimp in a new one. I know this is much more easily said than done. If you google remove pex ring you will find people who think it is doable.

I like Sharkbite.

If you are over an accessible area, you could consider fishing copper tubing from below. 3/8 OD is plenty big for filling toilets.


The pex pipe once used with a fitting and ring develops memory. It's pretty tough to re-seal another fitting on that same spot of pex. (Don't ask me how I know this. Tried before.) I've even tried it in another situation, on a piece of pex where most of the old fitting area had been removed, and half the length was new. Nope, leaked. Pex needs to be fresh with no prior fitting or you're risking a leak problem.

As far as access, I have it from the crawl space below, but like the example you cited below, that pex pipe is properly secured inside that wall It's not moving unless I open the wall and remove the clamp. If I have to open the wall, I'll probably just use a copper extension and add a new piece of pex (or even install a proper copper stub out, i.e. once I'm cutting drywall, nothing else matters, there are multiple ways to fix it.)

Thanks.
 

OldSalt

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Is a flood worth all this? Think, a 1/2" pipe running at full bore pressure while you are away.

Have you priced carpet these days? Mold removal?

Have a qualified plumber, whatever that is these days do the work. I would call around insisting they are a master plumber before letting them on my property.

So many of these companies around here hire handymen to plumb houses. My last plumbers had never installed PEX A before. They did everything in PEX B. Told them about the advantages of PEX A. They are now converted to PEX A installs.
Pex B passes code, and works fine. Pex A is nice if you have the pricy equipment. Professional plumbers used Pex B on this home. I'm not a tradesman, but am competent enough with plumbing (as long as I do my research, because I've made errors, too, particularly with the original commode installs as vanity drains, but those are another topic). If my house should flood, it'll be me doing the debris removal, bringing in the fans to dry it out, the plumbing and drywall repair, new installs (wood floors, carpet, etc.), just as I did when I built the house. But, thanks!
 

Eman85

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I'm not a plumber and I don't like finishing sheetrock but I think I'd pull the toilet and cut the wall. Not fun but at least you can do it once and be done.
 

Reach4

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The pex pipe once used with a fitting and ring develops memory. It's pretty tough to re-seal another fitting on that same spot of pex. (Don't ask me how I know this. Tried before.)
I would have thought the new ring/clamp would have overcome the memory.

EMan85, Have you tugged on that pex to see if there might be some slack vs being held securely?

Imagine if you cut the PEX close to the wall. Then you drilled into the PEX with a 5/8 drill. I am thinking you could cut out a path that would then support fishing 3/8 OD copper. This would be for somebody with a lot of time to devote, but really wanted to avoid the wall work.

On another note, generally plumbers don't do drywall repair.
 
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