This first picture is of the lock lever of the pitless adapter that is cracked. I will attach another picture that shows the lever before I removed it.4 inch ID steel casing?
I don't know what the first picture shows. The second picture shows what looks functionally similar to my Merrill SMCK stainless SMCK4 pitless. The MCK is in brass. There are other sizes too. The leg pushes the o-ring firmly to the wall of the casing. If you put SMCK into the search box above, you will see references.
If the outside connection is intact, I don't see why you could not replace the existing inside part with an SMCK or MCK. I am not a pro.
The point of this type of pitless is to give the full diameter of the casing to pass the pump up and down.
There is a pipe that supports this piece vertically, and is cut to length during installation. The casing is marked during install to locate the hanger bar direction so that you can put the pitless back the same way during re installs.
Hi I know this is an old post but was hoping somebody could help as it related to this post. I have a Merrill SMCK fitless adapter that was removed but not marked. Is there a way to ensure that is lined up with the hole in the casing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated? I will post a picture of the type of pitless adapter I have.4 inch ID steel casing?
I don't know what the first picture shows. The second picture shows what looks functionally similar to my Merrill SMCK stainless SMCK4 pitless. The MCK is in brass. There are other sizes too. The leg pushes the o-ring firmly to the wall of the casing. If you put SMCK into the search box above, you will see references.
If the outside connection is intact, I don't see why you could not replace the existing inside part with an SMCK or MCK. I am not a pro.
The point of this type of pitless is to give the full diameter of the casing to pass the pump up and down.
There is a pipe that supports this piece vertically, and is cut to length dug installation. The casing is marked during install to locate the hanger bar direction so that you can put the pitless back the same way during re installs.
Thank you for the info sorry for the posting in the wrong location I will not let that happen again. Yes everything is there The t-bar at the top The bar that goes down to the pitless adapter and then the hole on the side of the case. It was just removed and not marked. The depth or length of the rod to the hole is probably going to be okay that hasn't changed. It was just rotated so the orientation is probably the only thing off and needs to be set. If I try to look down the hole and put a string line maybe with a plumbing bob would that be a good way of doing it? I do have a 5-in PVC casing with a 3-in submersible pump. Do you think I should just get rid of this thing and go with a better pitless adapter? I guess I would have to dig it out but if there's a benefit here I guess I'm open for it1. Do you have the piece that went down the hole? Do you have the whole maybe 40 inch, or so, assembly with the bar on top and the piece with the big o-ring on the other end? If so, measure from the underside of the support bar to the middle of the output.... There will be a hole in the casing that far down. Light the inside of the casing with a bright flashlight in the dark, or shine the sunlight down there. Note where the hole is, and mark that on the casing top.
If you cannot see, for some reason, you will need to use something to feel for the hole. Don't drop anything down the well.
2. I understand that you did not how to start a new thread, but why would you choose to add your question to this thread (which is discussing a different pitless)?
For future reference, to post a new thread:
If you see the name of the forum you want to post into, try clicking that. Otherwise, click Forums, which gets you to http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php
Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.
On the right, click on "Post New Thread".
Thanks for the update and the information I have a new pump coming tomorrow I'm going to give it a try. Information you gave me will definitely help Thanks againIf you use a plumb bob, make sure the string is plenty strong. But yes, a weight on a string, while you eyeball the string bisecting the hole sounds plenty accurate.
"O ring" is MCKOR. Use silicone grease on o-ring, whether you replace the o-ring, or reuse.
These links still work:
MCKOR MCK Heavy O-Ring from MERRILL MANUFACTURING
Kelly Supply Company (DBA: KSCdirect.com) is a general line wholesaler of industrial maintenance, repair, and operating supplies. We have multiple physical locations in Colorado, Iowa, and Nebraska, and sell nationwide via KSCdirect.com. We also sell plumbing, heating, electrical, HVAC, and...kscdirect.com
See post #32 of https://terrylove.com/forums/index....ess-adapter-question.41692/page-2#post-597115, which has instructions. It explains how to make the tool you need to tighten the pitless into place: smash the end of a 1/2 inch steel pipe to make a wrench.
Once installed, I suggest sanitizing the well and plumbing.
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.
If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.