Replace washing machine gate shutoff valve w/ 1/4 turn ball valve screw-on. Is mine screw-on?

[njweb]

I need to replace my washing machine hoses, so I figured I may as well remove my old gate valves at the same time (21 - 22 year old home) and replace them with 1/4 turn ball valves.
Before I embark on this project, I wanted to confirm the connection type (first question below) and get some recommendations (other two questions below).

1) I scraped at the teflon tape / pipe dope to expose what APPEAR to be threads.
Can someone please check my photo and confirm from my photo these are simply screw-on gate valves? I want to replace them with screw-on ball valves similar to the following: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Q...rn-Brass-Screw-On-Ball-Valves-38529/205062252

2) If the answer to question 1 is that mine are indeed screw-on (I do not want to deal with other connection methods), are there any reliable ball valves for washing machines?
The ones above have leak complaints (based on reviews).

3) Lastly, I have been searching for washing machine hoses and while the hoses themselves appear to be good, people are often having issues after 6 months to a year with leaks at the connectors...
Any reliable steel washing machine hoses that do not have inferior connectors?

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Whether they are gate valves or another form of multi-turn valves does not really matter IMO.

1) I scraped at the teflon tape / pipe dope to expose what APPEAR to be threads.
Can someone please check my photo and confirm from my photo these are simply screw-on gate valves? I want to replace them with screw-on ball valves similar to the following: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Q...rn-Brass-Screw-On-Ball-Valves-38529/205062252

The Oatey data that I found does not say what thread they use. Is it proprietary, or is it 1/2 NTP?


Looks to me as your existing thread may be 1/2 NTP. If that is the case, I would consider Dahl
221-01-04-PK2 If it fits, expect it to be very reliable.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-22...-Male-Hose-Boiler-Drain-Pack-of-2-Rough-Brass

What you want to do is to look up the dimensions of 1/2 NTP, and see what you think. Use your digital caliper to sanity check the thread OD. Look at a thread gauge to see if the thread pitch looks like 14 TPI. You can push a piece of soft wood or clay against the thread, and compare the impression to a thread gauge or known 1/2 inch NTP thread.

You could take one of your existing valves loose, and compare the thread to a known 1/2 NTP thread.

I don't have a recommendation on hoses, but I would not tend to prefer hoses covered with metal braid over others based on just that.

 

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[njweb]

Whether they are gate valves or another form of multi-turn valves does not really matter IMO.

The Oatey data that I found does not say what thread they use. Is it proprietary, or is it 1/2 NTP?


Looks to me as your existing thread may be 1/2 NTP. If that is the case, I would consider Dahl
221-01-04-PK2 If it fits, expect it to be very reliable.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-22...-Male-Hose-Boiler-Drain-Pack-of-2-Rough-Brass

What you want to do is to look up the dimensions of 1/2 NTP, and see what you think. Use your digital caliper to sanity check the thread OD. Look at a thread gauge to see if the thread pitch looks like 14 TPI. You can push a piece of soft wood or clay against the thread, and compare the impression to a thread gauge or known 1/2 inch NTP thread.

You could take one of your existing valves loose, and compare the thread to a known 1/2 NTP thread.

Thanks for the advice and prompt reply!
The threaded portion looks like a perfect length too.
So I would just be able to screw it on right? Obviously I would use some PTFE tape or compound to create a water tight seal.

Also, to confirm, before I order the Dahl one you recommended: I guess boiler drains do not have a restriction on water flow that would be too severe for a washing machine application?
I see others using them for washing machines in the reviews and had read some posts about boiler drains being used for washing machine supply line shutoffs, but just for my plumbing education.

Regarding removing the existing valve for measurement purposes, I am leery of having to shut off the water when I am not ready to start the job.
Instead let me check using another method.
I always hate turning on faucets and especially using toilets after air builds up in the pipes after water is turned back on when the main has been shut off and worrying about any stress on the water pipes, so I prefer to do it all once.
Just had a ball valve in basement replaced earlier this week and while I was able to carefully open each faucet SLOWLY after the water was turned back on, when we went to flush one of the toilets 16 hours later for the first time since water was turned back on, it sounded like a bomb went off for a split second - I think the metal circular floor 'plate' (disc) around the toilet supply line jumped up and hit the pipe and fell back onto the tile at the same time contributing to the sound effect.

In the meantime, I ordered Fluidmaster washing hoses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911CIEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for the advice and prompt reply!
The threaded portion looks like a perfect length too.
So I would just be able to screw it on right? Obviously I would use some PTFE tape or compound to create a water tight seal.

I don't have relevant experience. I can guess, and often I am right. I can tell you a good place to find a digital caliper. I can suggest a test you can do before you order.

Also, to confirm, before I order the Dahl one you recommended: I guess boiler drains do not have a restriction on water flow that would be too severe for a washing machine application?
I see others using them for washing machines in the reviews and had read some posts about boiler drains being used for washing machine supply line shutoffs, but just for my plumbing education.

I suggest you read the reviews on the page I linked to.

When screwing in NTP, I use both good PTFE tape, such as Oatey pink, and thread sealant both.

When removing or inserting valves, use two wrenches: one on that copper female thread, and one on the valve.

I would also get a garden hose thread pressure gauge. A laundry tap is a good place to mount a gauge temporarily, as is the drain on the WH. Pressure should be under 80 normally when you are trickling water. Your experience turning on the water sounds much more exciting than what I am used to. For that toilet with the event, maybe turn off the stop valve, and open it slowly once the pressure is back on.

 

[njweb]

I don't have relevant experience. I can guess, and often I am right. I can tell you a good place to find a digital caliper. I can suggest a test you can do before you order.


I suggest you read the reviews on the page I linked to.

When screwing in NTP, I use both good PTFE tape, such as Oatey pink, and thread sealant both.

When removing or inserting valves, use two wrenches: on on that copper female thread, and one on the valve.

I would also get a garden hose thread pressure gauge. Pressure should be under 80 normally when you are trickling water. Your experience turning on the water sounds much more exciting than what I am used to. For that toilet with the event, maybe turn off the stop valve, and open it slowly once the pressure is back on.

Right, I meant screw it on assuming the fit (diameter) is correct.
Looking at the white threaded pipe, looks like 1/2 NPT (and of course 3/4 outlet).
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

Good suggestion regarding using both compound and tape.
These are the ones I had ordered just before your reply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKVWL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DE8F5I2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I already ordered wrenches (was planning to use 8 and 10 inches simultaneously for exactly the reason you noted); actually came in set of three:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QQ8P5K6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regarding toilet, was thinking the same in fact. I had one toilet shutoff valve fail (1/4 turn type) when shutting it off to replace a toilet fill valve and flapper over the summer.
I think I should 'exercise' the various shutoff valves in the house periodically (every 6 months) to prevent calcium / lime buildup or other issues which would cause them not to shut water off fully...

Thanks again!

 

[Reach4]

Good suggestion regarding using both compound and tape.
These are the ones I had ordered just before your reply:

The compound looks good. I would have preferred a higher density tape. 3.5 is thicker than most.

I like yellow "gas" tape for water. It has density >1.3 as well as being thicker. The tape you ordered is probably better than what most people use.