replace/repair jet pump

[Pete C]

I have a flotec 3/4 hp jet pump. It has been getting noisier over the last few years. It is now showing signs of what I suspect may be bearing failure. In addition to being noisy, it is starting to have speed fluctuation. I have replaced bearings before on other types of motors. Is it reasonably easy to do? Would I need a press? Am I better off replacing the entire pump? Not sure of its age other than it is more than 13 years old.

 

[Pete C]

Just talked to the guy from my local well service company that has done work for me in the past. He said not worth trying to rebuild a flotec. He quoted me $755 for a new Gould. Said it was much better than flotec. I can but a new flotec at HD for under 300. Kind of leaning towards that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[DonL]

I guess no one repairs pumps much anymore.

Is it the Motor bearings that you suspect ?

The Flotec cast Iron pumps are fine. Not so sure about the cheap plastic ones.


Good Luck.

 

[Craigpump]

I don't know,

What lasts better? Cheap ass tires from Pep Boys or Michelins.

What tastes better? Steak from WalMart or from Costco.

Usually you get what you pay for

 

[Pete C]

Yes, I do realize you get what you pay for. So, the question is, is the gould that much better? I have had good service from the existing flotec, until now. How long should one last? I found a Gould J10 on CL locally. It says used for 2 weeks while waiting for submersible. The pics do look new. Asking 425.

Seems kind of odd that someone would go to the trouble of installing a jet pump temporarily? Aren't they plumbed different? 1 pipe vs 2?

One other thing. My water is very hard and corrosive. Is this a factor in chosing a pump?

As for my steak, I go no neither. My local butcher's is much better.

 

[Reach4]

I know nothing about your Flotec, but http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialProduct_fl_hw_jt_FP4022_08.aspx says parts are available and identified in the downloadable manual.

 

[Valveman]

You got 13 years out of the Flotec. That is like getting Michelin mileage from “Cheap Ass” tires. You got more than your moneys worth. You can either gamble on a new set of “Cheap Ass” tires or splurge for the Michelins. With your luck I don’t know which is better. And could I get you to put 10 dollars on black for me the next time your in Vegas?

 

[LLigetfa]

You got 13 years out of the Flotec...

I wonder how today's Flotec compares with what they made 13 years ago?

 

[DonL]

I wonder how today's Flotec compares with what they made 13 years ago?

Just looking at them, there is no comparison, Unless it is Cast Iron, They still look good, and you pay for it.

I sure would not buy a Plastic one, Unless I had no other choice.

I have only seen a cast iron Flotec at one BB store in my area.

They do not sell as many Cast Iron ones because people that go to a BB store, Need it now, and have little money.


My guess is that the iron ones cost more money because they are much better than plastic crap.

 

[Pete C]

As I stated earlier, my water is very corrosive. It eats pipes and fixtures like you wouldn't believe. I am not sure that given my water, "cheap ass" plastic just might be the way to go. Also, my old pump has the larger diameter pump housing which is less wide. Last year I bought a new, to me pool pump of a similar design and that thing moves an amazing amount of water on its low setting. I am no pump design expert, but, I suspect this larger diameter design is more efficient and possibly more quiet.

There are cast iron pumps at the BB stores. They are all no name made in china ones. I would prefer to buy american made, but, not sure I am willing to pay more than double for it.

 

[DonL]

As I stated earlier, my water is very corrosive. It eats pipes and fixtures like you wouldn't believe. I am not sure that given my water, "cheap ass" plastic just might be the way to go. Also, my old pump has the larger diameter pump housing which is less wide. Last year I bought a new, to me pool pump of a similar design and that thing moves an amazing amount of water on its low setting. I am no pump design expert, but, I suspect this larger diameter design is more efficient and possibly more quiet.

There are cast iron pumps at the BB stores. They are all no name made in china ones. I would prefer to buy american made, but, not sure I am willing to pay more than double for it.

Plastic may work fine, But if your water is so bad a good Cast Iron pump will not work, Then you need to test your water.

What is the model of the pump that you have ?

If you find a pump that is made with all parts made in the USA I would like to know the model number.

 

[Pete C]

I ended up buying the Gould J10 I found on CL. It was used 2 weeks. It appears to be brand new. Paid 350. Installed it and it works beautifully. Its cycle time is less than half the old pumps and I can barely hear it upstairs.

the old pump was a flotec fp4332.

 

[LLigetfa]

Its cycle time is less than half...

Make sure the bladder has a proper precharge on it so you don't short cycle the pump to death.

 

[Pete C]

Make sure the bladder has a proper precharge on it so you don't short cycle the pump to death.

Yes, I was wondering about that. I suspect there are instructions here somewhere to do it. I will see if I can find them. I think I also need to look at cut on/off pressures.

Thanks

 

[Pete C]

Pump is doing fine so far. Haven't had a chance to check the expansion tank numbers yet. I do have one more question.

Is it worthwhile to switch the pump over to 220V? It would be easy enough to do. Just change one jumper on the pump, install a 220V breaker at the panel. I think I may even have one kicking around. I do get a bit of light flickering when the pump kicks on and I would think that going to 220 might help this as I would be using half the current.

 

[Reach4]

Is it worthwhile to switch the pump over to 220V?

Yes.......

 

[DonL]

Pump is doing fine so far. Haven't had a chance to check the expansion tank numbers yet. I do have one more question.

Is it worthwhile to switch the pump over to 220V? It would be easy enough to do. Just change one jumper on the pump, install a 220V breaker at the panel. I think I may even have one kicking around. I do get a bit of light flickering when the pump kicks on and I would think that going to 220 might help this as I would be using half the current.

Any motor will operate more efficient on 240V, You have less voltage drop on the wire.

But I am not sure by code, if you can use the same wire, You may be allowed if you mark that the White is a power conductor, Using red tape. Normally White is a neutral.


Good Luck.

 

[Craigpump]

Electricians wire up 230 volt pumps all the time using 12/2 w ground ROMEX®, doesn't seem to bother the inspectors here in Ct.

 

[DonL]

Electricians wire up 230 volt pumps all the time using 12/2 w ground ROMEX®, doesn't seem to bother the inspectors here in Ct.

They do here also.

The correct way to do it, is to mark it.

They do not even do that here, But most Good inspectors want it flagged, as it should be, on both ends.


Your results may vary, and depends on the inspector. You are the inspector. lol . And it is safe for the most part.

 

[Pete C]

It is 12/2 ROMEX®. There is a switch in a duplex box next to the pump. From there to the pump, about 4 ft, it is old armored BX. I would replace that with new ROMEX®.

Time to go digging through my box of junk in the basement for a dual pole CB.