Replace pipe out of well casing?

[JoeJee]

Hello everyone,

I had to dig up around my well to replace a yard hydrant. Previous owners let several trees grow up over the last 30 years so it has taken a LOT off work to get through all the roots. Since I have it clear I am going to install a CSV. I am thinking of replacing the pipe (looks like galvanized) that come out of the casing when I refit the valve and new hydrant. Can I just back this pipe out without a problem or would I have to do something on the inside of the well?

A few things about the picture: the pipe that is unhooked looks to go to an abandoned yard hydrant. The pvc pipe that goes to the house turns to 3/4 copper somewhere before it comes up out of the slab... not sure where the transition is or why they did it.

 

[Valveman]

If it doesn't break off, that first rusty nipple should unscrew from the pitless adapter, which should be brass. Put back a 6" brass nipple then the CSV1A and cover it with a valve box and lid. From the CSV1A you can go to any hydrant, tee to irrigation, house, and pressure tank/pressure switch, which can be anywhere the power comes from.

If that nipple does break, just take it out in pieces.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[JoeJee]

Thank you for the prompt response. The two main plumbing supply houses (not big box) have moved more to carrying SS. Is that ok instead of brass or is brass better?

Also, to allow access (with a valve box) I was going to 90 up a bit before installing valve. Is there a preferred placement of the valve? Figuring it doesn’t matter as long as it is accessible and flow is correct.

 

[Valveman]

Thank you for the prompt response. The two main plumbing supply houses (not big box) have moved more to carrying SS. Is that ok instead of brass or is brass better?

Also, to allow access (with a valve box) I was going to 90 up a bit before installing valve. Is there a preferred placement of the valve? Figuring it doesn’t matter as long as it is accessible and flow is correct.

Yes Stainless is fine. And yes the CSV can be installed in any position. However, elbowing up gets it closer to the freeze line. Probably best to just add a few extensions to the valve box and keep it as deep as possible.

 

[JoeJee]

I will see if I can still reach the valve without going up. Another question I thought of; I have a chlorine injection at the pressure tank that turns on with the pump. Can I still use it as is or do I need to make some type of modification?

 

[Reach4]

I will see if I can still reach the valve without going up. Another question I thought of; I have a chlorine injection at the pressure tank that turns on with the pump. Can I still use it as is or do I need to make some type of modification?

Before, the flow into the tank was relatively constant while the pump ran, so a constant feed rate of chlorine was OK. With the CSV, the gpm will vary quite a bit, so you would want chlorine injection to be proportional to use.

 

[Valveman]

Like Reach says a proportional injector would be best. However, most regular injectors work fine with a CSV. You just need to reduce the injection amount to the average flow rate instead of the max flow rate. Start out slow and add more if needed until you get it the strength you want.

 

[Reach4]

The yard hydrant will add a consideration factor. I presume you don't chlorinate the yard water, yet chlorine will continue to be injected. So when doing considerable irrigation from your yard hydrant, you may want to turn off the chlorine injector.

 

[JoeJee]

You are correct, I wouldn’t be using the Chlorine for lawn. May have to figure out a different sanitation setup. I have been hearing a lot about UV lately so may look into that. Pretty sure I will need a water softener though...

 

[Reach4]

You are correct, I wouldn’t be using the Chlorine for lawn. May have to figure out a different sanitation setup. I have been hearing a lot about UV lately so may look into that. Pretty sure I will need a water softener though...

UV won't remove H2S ("sulfur" smell), but there are alternatives. Softeners will remove some iron. Was bacteria your only motivation for chlorine? For a deep well that has been sanitized since well work, most positive coliform bacteria tests are because of bad sampling technique.

 

[JoeJee]

Update:

Found time to unhook everything and re-pipe. I allowed for hooking up the line for the shop and yard hydrant but ran out of time. Later this week I will level the box with sand, install yard hydrant, and backfill. I’ll post update of yard hydrant when done. I do a lot of pvc and copper work as an HVAC tech but not much plumbing. I have found that ANY type of plumbing easily takes me 3 times longer than I think it will. This wasn’t even that hard of a job but still took most of the day.

The CSV seems to work great. One thing I noticed, after the water is shut off and the pressure builds before the pump kicks off the high pressure gauge fluctuates a lot. Is this normal? I can take a video tomorrow morning if it will help.

 

[Valveman]

Looks good! The discharge gauge is attached to the downstream side of the CSV. That is OK but there is a lot of turbulence there and the gauge will vibrate. A liquid filled gauge would not vibrate, but I like the cheap gauges so I can see every flicker. Gauge probably won't last long. But once everything is set you can take it off or valve it off with a 1/4" ball valve. That way you save the gauge so it will work next time you want to check things. A gauge at the tank should show the same pressure and will not vibrate like that one.