Replace a float

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floatask

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Hello

I am new here. I hope this is the right forum (we didn't call to the devices in English so I tried to see in the forum some topic to understand where to post).

I replace the float. I have 2 question about this:
1. I assmeble what in the picture below

floatask.jpg


On the float. Than I assemble the pipe on it. When I tried to remove the pipe, I saw that the screw (I don't sure if this the right term for what in the picture) go out with the pipe.
How can I remove this screw from the pipe. I tried with my hands but this cut me.

2. Water go out between the screw and the pipe. I must to set screw? If yes, why water go out?
 

Reach4

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I don't know what you have there, but that hex is going to be to accept an Allan wrench (also sometimes called an Allan key).

Measure inside across the flats with a digital caliper to see the size you need. How big is it? If it is part of a flush valve, then you are talking about something pretty big, and you don't normally see Allan wrenches that big.

I also see there are some flats that you could use an open end wrench on.
 

floatask

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Hi
Thanks for the answer. I add here video. I hope that he will answer you question.
https://easyupload.io/373akj

I change the thing that in the picture in the first message in this topic (what is the name of this thing?).
It's was hard to remove this from the pipe and I wonder if there is easier option.

Why some of the water go out? I put brand new pipe ant thing. I only replace him while the pipe was the same and the water no longer go out.

edit: oh, now I understand for what you mean. I have Allen key. I will try to remove with this.
btw, what is the address of the forums? The only way that I can enter is from Google. If I try to type it, it take me to somewhere else and not to the fourm.
 

Jadnashua

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There are at least four methods to create a water tight connection:
- tapered pipe thread...this type requires either pipe dope or PTFE tape to seal between the threads so it won't leak. This looks like your connection may need one of those to seal
- hose type connection that seals with a washer at the end and compressed when tightened
- compression where a wedge shaped ring is compressed tight against the pipe to make the seal
- soldered
- press and seal that uses a special tool to compress a ring around the pipe and fitting to seal things together
- braze...used in special circumstances, not that much for water supplies except underground.

What you show appears to be a plug to seal the pipe off.
 
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Sylvan

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There are at least four methods to create a water tight connection:
- tapered pipe thread...this type requires either pipe dope or PTFE tape to seal between the threads so it won't leak. This looks like your connection may need one of those to seal
- hose type connection that seals with a washer at the end and compressed when tightened
- compression where a wedge shaped ring is compressed tight against the pipe to make the seal
- soldered
- press and seal that uses a special tool to compress a ring around the pipe and fitting to seal things together
- braze...used in special circumstances, not that much for water supplies except underground.

What you show appears to be a plug to seal the pipe off.


Why not tell him about flair connection that is used for higher pressures then compression or DOUBLE flair for much higher pressures ?

Brazing is used ABOVE Ground not below as FLAIR is used off the city main with a goose neck to allow for movement just as most piping off a riser should never come straight off the riser

I would think before saying "brazing" is for underground you may want to clarify it by saying "depending on local codes"

I used to braze dehydrated type L tubing for Oxygen and nitrous lines as well as potable water lines

TP Copper was BRAZED as well as Type L water lines in residential buildings as well as commercial



 

floatask

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Shana Tova

Shana Tova.
How do you know that we had recntly new year her?

I saw that there is another two messages with many terms that I don't know (I also not very fimiliar with the terms in Hebrew, so in English it's even less known to me). I am little bit short on time right now, so I will check them later.
 

Jadnashua

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Generally, soldered connections are not allowed underground, so brazing, if using copper pipe, is one method there. Certainly, it can be used elsewhere - it takes a hotter torch and more skill than soldering IMHO. It's the normal means of connecting piping for refrigerant, but we're talking potable water.

Regardless, unless a typical threaded fitting has a gasket to seal (like on a water hose), it almost always requires pipe dope or PTFE tape to seal around the threads to make it watertight.
 

floatask

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I start to search for some of the terms that you wrote (still didn't finish all of them). I never saw methods as jadnashua wrote. I saw that you put something around the pipe like in this video:


Also I see that the water continues to move after the water goes down so I put paper to see if water goes down inside the toilet and the answer is positive (I haven't talked about the pipe).

Although I close the water supply, you can see that the water here are moving (probably because they go down):
http://www.sup.co.il/51991911
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/19558868.jpg

I think that I might not close this part:
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/27244285.jpg
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/19518419.jpg
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/27734533.jpg

Also when this close like that:
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/25637328.jpg
I have much less water that goes down and continues to leak, while it's open as in this picture
http://www.up2me.co.il/imgs/1981550.jpg
in some of the time I can't full the tank because a lot of water leak.
 

Jadnashua

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That isn't a flush valve design that I've seen used in the USA. While we do have some members from outside of the USA, unless one of them is familiar with what you have, not going to be able to help you much.

If you shut the incoming water supply off, and the tank empties, you need to figure out why. FWIW, a constantly leaking toilet can leak a HUGE amount of water, and end up costing lots of money, so you do need to fix this.

It could be the assembly is sticking, and not moving up/down properly to seal, it could be the seal is damaged, or, it could be there's some accumulated crud on the mating surface where the seal is trying to be made, letting water leak out.

There are a few different ways in plumbing where you can create a leak-proof connection with threaded connections:
- tapered pipe threads that require either pipe dope or PTFE tape to jam into the taper when tightening that create the seal
- a washer or gasket that gets compressed when you tighten the threads, compressing it against a mating surface...if the mating surface is not smooth, it may not work, or if the gasket is damaged, cracked, or broken, it won't be able to seal.

Is that O-ring fully intact? What about where it mates up, is that smooth? Does the assembly move up and down freely?
 
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