Repairing thread damage in pool valve connector

Users who are viewing this thread

Mark Gendron

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Washington
Good afternoon,

I am having some difficulty replacing some pool plumbing. I need to run a new 1-1/2" schedule 40 PVC connection between the pump outlet and the selector valve. Unfortunately, a previous technician installed a schedule 80 pipe nipple into the inlet side of the selector valve. Either the pipe nipple was overtightened, or it was installed with a hardening cement. Or both.

I tried to cut out the pipe nipple, but it isn't going to budge. Even where I have broken away pieces of the pipe nipple, its threads have been left behind.

I am looking for suggestions on how I might approach this repair, without having to spend hundreds of dollars to replace the selector valve! One possibility that comes to mind is to use an appropriately-sized hole saw to remove the remainder of the pipe nipple and the damaged threads, and then cement in a street fitting with female threads, or a straight piece of 1-1/2 PVC with a union attached, or some variant thereof.

I look forward to your suggestions!

Thanks,
-Mark

broken_pipe.jpg
 

CountryBumkin

Active Member
Messages
915
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Orlando, FL
I don't think over tightening the fitting is the problem. If it were just tight, cutting through the fitting with a hacksaw blade would have relieved the pressure (tightness) and the pieces would have come out. It looks like it was glued in!
I think your better off just replacing the selector valve (you may be able to buy just the body) rather than spend hours and $ trying to cut out and glue/fit something in its place.

A selector valve shouldn't cost that much (what brand/model is yours). I use Pentair and Jandy valves.
Is this a multiport (filter) valve or a three-way port or something else? http://www.poolcenter.com/c/poolValves
 

Mark Gendron

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Washington
Mike, it's a Hayward 710x multiport valve. Replacement bodies run $90-$120, which puts me on the fence regarding a replacement vs trying to fix what I have.
 

CountryBumkin

Active Member
Messages
915
Reaction score
70
Points
28
Location
Orlando, FL
Yeah, a hundred bucks ain't nothing to sneeze at. Good luck.
http://www.poolzoom.com/hayward-vari-flo-valve-sp-710x-sp-712-sp-711-13-sp-711-20-parts.html

If you can cut slots in the old material, just shy of cutting into the threads of the valve, then peel out the old stuff, you have a chance. Trying to drill it out so you can glue something in, will be tough. You might be able to get a 1-1/2" hole saw, then make a wooden plug to fill the opening so you can center the hole saw on the center of the plug and drill it out..
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks