Hi. The back story: a month and a half ago, i went to open the valve underneath the sink that runs to the hose bib and given the peculiarity of the valve (as pictured, it was bent to fit), my increase in turning the stuck handle in either direction led it to snapping off at the stem (as pictured).
The questions at this point:
1. I tried seeing if the stem can be removed, but there's nothing to grab on to. It seems like this ball valve can't be disassembled, unless there's some way to replace the handle? Main problem is it was installed so the closed handle faces the back of the cabinet, hence it being bent. Ideally, it would be reversed. The previous valve was a plumbmaster ball valve with drain for a 1/2" line.
2. I have been attempting to unsolder the ball joint. As i was torching the valve, boiling water sputtered out of the valve drain as well as the faucet. I did turn off the water main and drained from the kitchen sink before disassembling sink trap to better access valve. I attempted to "mouth" siphon water from the drain (via tubing) to reduce water in line, but that seemed to only pull water into the valve from the commecting cold water line. Although i watched a video that noted removing any build up on the pipe and applying flux increases heat penetration, is there any way to remove the valve without using a canister of propane to remove any water? I am puzzled since this line runs upward to the hose bib, so it seems water would naturally drain away from this valve.
3. I also realized the challenge that in order to remove this valve, i would need to simultaneously unsweat one side, pull that off, then unsweat the other side to remove the valve. Initial attempts, besides likely not melting solder, seemed impossible. Is this even possible as described?
4. I watched a video that showed un-sweating an in-line ball valve requires cutting one side to un-sweat the other side. In the likely event this valve needs to be replaced and needs to be cut, is the best spot for cutting more towards the hose bib side (upper left) or down by the t branch? Do i cut off right where valve ends or further away? My concern is that since the new valve has the same exact dimensions as the old one, i would not have enough pipe to sweat into the new valve. So, i would then need a copper coupler and new pipe, or are there fittings that fit into the old line to connect to new?
5. Finally, i had planned to just resweat the whole thing, but given that this has become more complicated, i also purchased a compression fitting ball valve. Is there an advantage in performance between the two aside from compression being slightly easier to install under a sink? What about sharkbite? Or is there another way to do this?
I figured i would keep the drain with the valve since it attaches to the hose bib, though would it be a freeze concern if the valve is off under the sink? I figured i would stick with the ball valve even though it would be turned on/off twice a year. Is there another valve or set up I should consider?
I have only replaced screw-on fittings (clearly), so any information, suggestions and advice anyone can offer is greatly appreciated.
The questions at this point:
1. I tried seeing if the stem can be removed, but there's nothing to grab on to. It seems like this ball valve can't be disassembled, unless there's some way to replace the handle? Main problem is it was installed so the closed handle faces the back of the cabinet, hence it being bent. Ideally, it would be reversed. The previous valve was a plumbmaster ball valve with drain for a 1/2" line.
2. I have been attempting to unsolder the ball joint. As i was torching the valve, boiling water sputtered out of the valve drain as well as the faucet. I did turn off the water main and drained from the kitchen sink before disassembling sink trap to better access valve. I attempted to "mouth" siphon water from the drain (via tubing) to reduce water in line, but that seemed to only pull water into the valve from the commecting cold water line. Although i watched a video that noted removing any build up on the pipe and applying flux increases heat penetration, is there any way to remove the valve without using a canister of propane to remove any water? I am puzzled since this line runs upward to the hose bib, so it seems water would naturally drain away from this valve.
3. I also realized the challenge that in order to remove this valve, i would need to simultaneously unsweat one side, pull that off, then unsweat the other side to remove the valve. Initial attempts, besides likely not melting solder, seemed impossible. Is this even possible as described?
4. I watched a video that showed un-sweating an in-line ball valve requires cutting one side to un-sweat the other side. In the likely event this valve needs to be replaced and needs to be cut, is the best spot for cutting more towards the hose bib side (upper left) or down by the t branch? Do i cut off right where valve ends or further away? My concern is that since the new valve has the same exact dimensions as the old one, i would not have enough pipe to sweat into the new valve. So, i would then need a copper coupler and new pipe, or are there fittings that fit into the old line to connect to new?
5. Finally, i had planned to just resweat the whole thing, but given that this has become more complicated, i also purchased a compression fitting ball valve. Is there an advantage in performance between the two aside from compression being slightly easier to install under a sink? What about sharkbite? Or is there another way to do this?
I figured i would keep the drain with the valve since it attaches to the hose bib, though would it be a freeze concern if the valve is off under the sink? I figured i would stick with the ball valve even though it would be turned on/off twice a year. Is there another valve or set up I should consider?
I have only replaced screw-on fittings (clearly), so any information, suggestions and advice anyone can offer is greatly appreciated.
