Hi guys, I'm new here and just enough of a DIY'er to get myself in trouble, so please have patience with me!
So about 8 months ago, my wife asked me to replace the vanity, light bar and mirror in a small bathroom off of our gameroom, which was a garage when I was a kid. The bathroom didn't exist when the house was built, so it was a remodel about 20 years ago.
Long story short, 8 months later it is a bonafide down to the studs remodel, I even went so far as to jackhammer out the concrete around the old shower and toilet because the toilet never flushed right, was positioned poorly, the flange was set crooked and was way too high. I also needed to move the shower drain for the new walk-in shower I am putting in. This is being generous, actually, as there were several more things that were just done wrong or very poorly. Nevertheless, I am going to fix them now.
As I expected, once below grade I found the issue the original plumber ran in to when he plumbed it - existing 3" DWV lines coming from the main house, two of them, and two 3/4" rebar in what used to be steps from a porch. Instead of cutting the rebar and continuing to remove the concrete and then dig under the existing DWV lines (or connect to them), the plumber went over them. In order to do that, he had to heat the 3" drain line and bend it to make the 90 at the bottom of the toilets sanitary tee. The line actually had to push waste uphill a few inches for about 2'-3' before reaching the bend and then continuing its journey to the septic system.
As I said, there were a lot of issues with the original job and I need to replace all of this and push the sanitary tee closer to the wall. My question is how should I connect back to the original 3" drain line? I think I can get the pipe that went over the other pipes and rebar about an inch further down, but then I have a significant offset, or angle to make up for when connecting back to the line.
Can a flexible coupling (like this one) be used in this fashion, or should I be considering something else?
Digging down further and going under it like it should have been done originally is not really an option anymore considering all of the other construction around it today.
I hope this made sense and I didn't just confuse everyone. I would be happy to post pictures if necessary. Any, and all, help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
So about 8 months ago, my wife asked me to replace the vanity, light bar and mirror in a small bathroom off of our gameroom, which was a garage when I was a kid. The bathroom didn't exist when the house was built, so it was a remodel about 20 years ago.
Long story short, 8 months later it is a bonafide down to the studs remodel, I even went so far as to jackhammer out the concrete around the old shower and toilet because the toilet never flushed right, was positioned poorly, the flange was set crooked and was way too high. I also needed to move the shower drain for the new walk-in shower I am putting in. This is being generous, actually, as there were several more things that were just done wrong or very poorly. Nevertheless, I am going to fix them now.
As I expected, once below grade I found the issue the original plumber ran in to when he plumbed it - existing 3" DWV lines coming from the main house, two of them, and two 3/4" rebar in what used to be steps from a porch. Instead of cutting the rebar and continuing to remove the concrete and then dig under the existing DWV lines (or connect to them), the plumber went over them. In order to do that, he had to heat the 3" drain line and bend it to make the 90 at the bottom of the toilets sanitary tee. The line actually had to push waste uphill a few inches for about 2'-3' before reaching the bend and then continuing its journey to the septic system.
As I said, there were a lot of issues with the original job and I need to replace all of this and push the sanitary tee closer to the wall. My question is how should I connect back to the original 3" drain line? I think I can get the pipe that went over the other pipes and rebar about an inch further down, but then I have a significant offset, or angle to make up for when connecting back to the line.
Can a flexible coupling (like this one) be used in this fashion, or should I be considering something else?
Digging down further and going under it like it should have been done originally is not really an option anymore considering all of the other construction around it today.
I hope this made sense and I didn't just confuse everyone. I would be happy to post pictures if necessary. Any, and all, help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.