Remodel framing and toilet flange updates

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Polecatt

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You guys have all been amazing and so helpful sharing your knowledge and recommendations. Much appreciated!

“Phase 2” of this project is to move the sink drain and supply across the floor to the opposite wall.
Any recommendations on how to tie the new ABS into this copper 45? It’s in a really awkward spot and I won’t have a lot of room above the 45 to add in a sanitary tee and keep it within the floor joist height. Also FYI, the distance under the floor to the opposite wall is 54” and I was planning to leave the vent where it is now.
68D5ADEB-3B5A-4FB7-8D0E-9E475306579A.jpeg
 

Reach4

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You guys have all been amazing and so helpful sharing your knowledge and recommendations. Much appreciated!

“Phase 2” of this project is to move the sink drain and supply across the floor to the opposite wall.
Any recommendations on how to tie the new ABS into this copper 45? It’s in a really awkward spot and I won’t have a lot of room above the 45 to add in a sanitary tee and keep it within the floor joist height. Also FYI, the distance under the floor to the opposite wall is 54” and I was planning to leave the vent where it is now.
"I was planning to leave the vent where it is now." How is that going to vent the new sink (lavatory)?
 

wwhitney

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Negative. Every trap must be vented within an elevation of one pipe diameter of the trap outlet. Your vent needs to be behind the new sink; once the sink drain falls more than 1-1/2" (assuming a 1-1/2" trap), it's too late to vent the sink.

At least that makes your earlier question easy, you can replace the copper 45 with a 90 pointing down the joist bay. Although executing that would be challenging given the materials and space constraints.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Polecatt

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Negative. Every trap must be vented within an elevation of one pipe diameter of the trap outlet. Your vent needs to be behind the new sink; once the sink drain falls more than 1-1/2" (assuming a 1-1/2" trap), it's too late to vent the sink.

At least that makes your earlier question easy, you can replace the copper 45 with a 90 pointing down the joist bay. Although executing that would be challenging given the materials and space constraints.

Cheers, Wayne

So in a situation like an island sink where you can’t go up, what do you do? assume this works.? Or just go with an AAV at the sink ?

image.jpg
 
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Reach4

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So in a situation like an island sink where you can’t go up, what do you do? assume this works.? Or just go with an AAV at the sink ?
1. AAV. My understanding is that Ontario allows AAVs but they must be 6 inches above the flood level of the lavatory.
2a. Not in USA, but...: Canada allows longer tailpieces, and traps under the floor. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/vertical-drain-drop-limit.33944/ #2 seems to say 4 ft allowed for a tailpiece. That is a lot, so you would want to check. If the numbers work, you could have the trap under the floor. That sounds like it may be just the ticket.
2b. You would also have to have the trap arm short enough. http://www.buildingcode.online/1090.html seems to say that a trap arm in Ontario can go 1.8 meters, which is 70.866 inches. So your 54 inches is under that. So OK on that point.
 
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Polecatt

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Negative. Every trap must be vented within an elevation of one pipe diameter of the trap outlet. Your vent needs to be behind the new sink; once the sink drain falls more than 1-1/2" (assuming a 1-1/2" trap), it's too late to vent the sink.

At least that makes your earlier question easy, you can replace the copper 45 with a 90 pointing down the joist bay. Although executing that would be challenging given the materials and space constraints.

Cheers, Wayne


Apparently these things have a tendency to snowball… I’m going to replace all the copper back to the cast iron stack hub connection since the copper is 1 1/4”. I need to get in there to measure, but I’m guessing this will be 1 1/2” ABS to 3” CI hub donut.
C3926267-5014-4E99-9B7E-0E10C75159C6.jpeg

Does that exist?
 

Polecatt

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Apparently these things have a tendency to snowball… I’m going to replace all the copper back to the cast iron stack hub connection since the copper is 1 1/4”. I need to get in there to measure, but I’m guessing this will be 1 1/2” ABS to 3” CI hub donut. View attachment 77040
Does that exist?

I’ve been working on this for almost two hours and it’s still rock solid.
3930E731-144B-4509-B41B-A0ABAFD6624D.jpeg
 

Reach4

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I am glad you got it. Is the piece in the bottom of the photo inverted from its original photos? That is what I am thinking.

Then what is the bigger piece? Are those pieces brass or bronze, or iron? Iron attracts a magnet.

When I said you needed to drill, I was talking about drilling into the lead.

You want to pick the stuff out of the cast iron hub, measure the ID, and locate a Fernco Donut that fits. A digital caliper with inside-measurement jaws is a good way to measure IDs.
 

Polecatt

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I am glad you got it. Is the piece in the bottom of the photo inverted from its original photos? That is what I am thinking.

Then what is the bigger piece? Are those pieces brass or bronze, or iron? Iron attracts a magnet.

When I said you needed to drill, I was talking about drilling into the lead.

You want to pick the stuff out of the cast iron hub, measure the ID, and locate a Fernco Donut that fits. A digital caliper with inside-measurement jaws is a good way to measure IDs.

the brass/bronze was all one piece. I had to cut it into a few pieces to get it out. It was really rusted in and it had that flair on it. The smaller section on the bottom of the picture is the portion that was sitting outside the hub and the upper section was seated in the hub.
 
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