Remodel Flange Height

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Malibubts

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Hey all, was looking to get a little advice on flange height on a 1960s bath remodel I'm working on.

The previous installation was original to the house: 1/2" ply subfloor, 1" mortar bed, 3/8" tile with the flange resting directly on top of the finished tile. Since the subfloor really isn't thick enough and there was some water damage, I'm currently pulling that and plan to replace it with 23/32" subfloor. My plan was to then use Ditra XL (5/16") and new 3/8" tile. The flange sits at basically 2" over the joists as is, this would put the flange about 1/2" above the finish floor.

I could lay another layer of 1/2" on the subfloor or lay another layer of 23/32" on the subfloor and switch to Ditra (1/8"), but it seems like the best option would be to replace the flange even though it seems to be in good shape? I'm a little lost on the best way though to do that. The drains are 3" Copper and I think it's a lead bend flange to 4". The flange or transition piece from the copper to the flange do not seem to attract a magnet.

Should I just layer up on the subfloor or replace the flange? Where is the best place to transition the old work to new work?

EDIT: I'm guessing the best way would be a 3" to 3" Fernco, straight PVC, flush cut the PVC at the finished floor and solvent weld on a PVC flange when the finished floor is in? Is it safe/effective to use a oscillating tool to cut of the old 3" to 4" adapter for the Fernco or is there some better way to do this?

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Reach4

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Do I see a metal band around plastic in the lower area?

I presume the cone is lead. But is there cast iron below that? Cast iron attracts a magnet.

Ideally, how high would you like the flange to be compared to the height it is at now?
 

Malibubts

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All the drains in this and the adjacent bath are copper, all the way to the basement where it's switched over the PVC when a new septic system was put in last year.
 

Terry

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They do make shielded couplings that transition between copper and plastic. Each side of the rubber coupling is a different sizing.
In a perfect world, the closet flange is on top of the finished flooring. With wax as the seal, even if the flange is a bit low, it's still workable.
 

Malibubts

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They do make shielded couplings that transition between copper and plastic. Each side of the rubber coupling is a different sizing.
In a perfect world, the closet flange is on top of the finished flooring. With wax as the seal, even if the flange is a bit low, it's still workable.
Yeah that's my thought, cut at the red line and pop on a Fernco. Switch to PVC, and leave the stub. Install the new subfloor. Once the tile is in then flush cut the PVC with the finish floor, solvent weld on a PVC flange on top of the tile.

Is the red line the proper place to cut here? Will an oscillating tool with a carbide blade for metal work or is there a better option?

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Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

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