Relocating washer

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wwhitney

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A wet vent is when a pipe acts both as a drain for upstream fixtures and a vent for downstream fixtures.

For example, in your drawing in post #3, I interpret that there's a vertical pipe which is a dry vent on top, the lav connects, and then the tub trap arm connects, then it ties into a horizontal drain. The pie between the lav connections and the tub connection is a vertical wet vent--the pipe is a drain for the lav and a vent for the tub.

If I understand the layout correctly, the WC at the bottom of that drawing is currently horizontally wet vented by the lav. A horizontal wet vent can only carry bathroom fixtures, so if you connect the washer where it shows in post #3, you disrupt the horizontal wet venting of the WC. The WC ends up unvented, so that's not good.

If you can tie the washer in downstream of the WC, that works.

Not sure I addressed all your questions, I've lost track a bit since the post #3 diagram. If you have more questions, particularly about an arrangement different from post #3, an updated diagram would help.

As to the slope of the horizontals, for a vented drain, as I commented you can have extra slope if you want. 1/2" per foot, 1" per foot, 30 degrees above horizontal, etc. On a trap arm, the drain between a trap and its vent, you are limited to one pipe diameter of fall, to avoid siphoning the trap. So there it is typically best to stick to 1/4" per foot. On a very short trap arm you could afford a little more slope if necessary for some reason.

Cheers, Wayne
 

boman66

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The new connection will be the y into that 2” drain that is serving the tub and lavatory.
Notice the washer will have its own vent.
 

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boman66

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Since this 2” branch runs to the water closet that is 3” or 4”, would it still affect the toilet? The tub and lavatory do not seem to. They all three would be entering the water closet at the same place through the same branch.
I might should add, the toilet is right above that water closet connection.
If the washer swirls water enough to cover the inside diameter of the main right under the toilet, I can see where it could siphon water from the toilet.
I might need to just run the washer drain back to its original branch that still serves the vented kitchen sink.
According to what is being said now, running the new drain to where the main clean out plug is a no?
The threads in the cleanout plug are in bad shape. That is why I decided to run the new drain different.
 

boman66

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Actually, there are two toilets connected with a wall between them. Since the main vent stack is between them and they are several inches away horizontally, how can anything else draining below their connections affect them, even if the main line below them gets full of water with the main vent going up through the roof?
How can that cause a siphoning effect for the toilets or anything else that had its own vent?
I can see it happening if the water in the main gets up to the top of the toilet connections maybe.
 

boman66

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This is where the branch drain connects to what I am calling the water closet. There are two toilets connected to it.
So, I cannot connect new washer drain to it because it might siphon water from the toilets?

1647978150830.jpeg
 

wwhitney

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So in the last photo, I see the double WCs (one closet bend is the PVC bend) and that they are dry vented, and the upright combo below the double san-tee. What are the three other drains connecting to that combo? There's one on the left side of the picture, and two coming in from the lower right.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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the picture looks nothing like the drawing on your notebook paper. no idea what your asking, wish i could help you. I guess all the castiron is coming out?
 

boman66

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So in the last photo, I see the double WCs (one closet bend is the PVC bend) and that they are dry vented, and the upright combo below the double san-tee. What are the three other drains connecting to that combo? There's one on the left side of the picture, and two coming in from the lower right.

Cheers, Wayne
I think you are referring to the clean out plug to the left.
There is only one coming from the right. It is the one that serves the lavatory and tub.
One of the pipes showing to the right is a just a piece of pvc left there by someone. It is not connected to anything.
Just past the wc connection in an upright position is a 2x4 someone used as a floor brace.
If you look downstream from the wc several feet, you see the lavatory drain from the master bath. It has a trap arm maybe a foot long going to it’s own vent.
The one beside the scrap pvc piece is the one I have been calling a branch drain coming from the wc connection at what I assume is 22.5 degrees and is the one I am wanting to connect a Y to and run it on over to the new washer location about 10 feet.
The top picture shows the other end and clean out to that 2” branch.
 

wwhitney

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OK, so since your WCs are dry vented, it's fine to connect your dry vented laundry drain anywhere downstream of the tub.

Cheers, Wayne
 

boman66

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This might be easier to see what I am dealing with.
The 2” I show is the branch I think you are calling the combo that serves a lavatory and tub connected to a soul stack that goes through the roof.
That combo/ branch is the one going toward where I want to put the washer with its own vent.
The drawing does not show it, but it is coming off the double wc connection at like 22.5 degrees.
I am wanting to cut that 2” pipe and connect a 45 y with fernco couplers then run it in over to the new location of the washer.
 

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boman66

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the picture looks nothing like the drawing on your notebook paper. no idea what your asking, wish i could help you. I guess all the castiron is coming out?
Appreciate both you guys being so patient with my ignorant butt.
Now having to deal with wife and granddaughter having Covid.
Granddaughters second time since January.
When it rains, it pours sometimes.
 

boman66

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OK, so since your WCs are dry vented, it's fine to connect your dry vented laundry drain anywhere downstream of the tub.

Cheers, Wayne
That combo is running almost directly in line with where the washer drain comes through the floor, but there is an old galvanized water pipe coming out of the ground in the way.
The combo is coming from the wc connection at 22.5 degrees. I will be putting a 45 y in it to branch off and go to the washer drain.
At some point, I will need to elevate the connection in order to keep the main part from being almost in the ground and maybe being damaged in the future if someone had to get down there and crawl over it.
I also want to support the drain near the floor joists.
Can I run straight from the 45 Y a few feet then put a long sweep 90 on the pipe to raise it about a foot or so?
I assume the Y needs to be positioned as if it is running 1/4” per foot or maybe just above half the diameter (*(weir?) of the drain it is branching out from?
Or, would horizontally level ( 90 degrees from the slope ) work since the pipe it will be connected to should already be at the correct slope?
Hoping I can connect straight to the Y with just a straight connection until it gets to where it needs to go up and a couple of long sweep 90’s are connected.
Heck it might be simpler to do some digging and place it in the ground with shielded couplers.
I think some digging would be needed.
 

wwhitney

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The only wet venting in your diagram is the tub, which is wet vented by the lav. So you can't connect your washer upstream of the tub. Given that, for the vented drains you can use any slope you like as long as it's at least 1/4" per foot.

So if you want to tie into an existing drain, you could use an upright wye to be 45 degrees from horizontal (or more if the line is already well about 1/4" per foot as you mention). And then at the desired height upstream of the wye, use a quarter bend to turn to 1/4" per foot, running perpendicular to the existing drain in plan (as seen from above).

Or lots of options. If the drain is really at 22.5 degrees, you could use an upright wye plus a 22.5 degree bend to get vertical, and then a quarter bend to turn horizontal pointing any direction you want.

On LT90 vs quarter bend, the rule is this: if the drainage outlet is vertical (at least 45 degree off level, no more than 45 degrees from plumb), you can use a quarter bend. If it's horizontal, you need a LT90.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

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I think boman 66 has got a pretty straight forward job underneath nothing going to siphon as I see just the description and drawing hard to follow are you on track now ? keep asking but you should be able to come off any of those horizontals
 

boman66

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I think boman 66 has got a pretty straight forward job underneath nothing going to siphon as I see just the description and drawing hard to follow are you on track now ? keep asking but you should be able to come off any of those horizontals
I did cut some of the cast. I think I need to make one of the cuts a little more square.
That and rod that shirt piece of cast out some. It has quite a bit of buildup in it from probably never being cleaned.
I have a small engine cylinder hone I thought I would try to use on cleaning it out if necessary. Not sure a brush or manual snake would clear it like I want it cleared.
I found the code I assume this country uses.
It calls for the drain stack to be 2”, the vent stack to be next size up, and the soil pipe to be next size up. Smh.
I am going to go 2” all the way when I get back on it.
 

Jeff H Young

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I did cut some of the cast. I think I need to make one of the cuts a little more square.
That and rod that shirt piece of cast out some. It has quite a bit of buildup in it from probably never being cleaned.
I have a small engine cylinder hone I thought I would try to use on cleaning it out if necessary. Not sure a brush or manual snake would clear it like I want it cleared.
I found the code I assume this country uses.
It calls for the drain stack to be 2”, the vent stack to be next size up, and the soil pipe to be next size up. Smh.
I am going to go 2” all the way when I get back on it.
just something to think about when its accesable cutting out a few more fittings and longer length of pipe isnt that much work then you arent spending so much time trying to get that build up out.
 

boman66

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You know, I might just cut more out and put a longer pvc connection in. At least enough so I can clean the cast iron out to the water closet connection.
 
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