Relocate washer drain help

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Roadman33

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I'm trying to move the waist for the washing machine over into the red corner.
The room is really small and would fit a lot better if I could put the washer in that corner.

The current 2-in that the washing machine drains into the fittings are so tight together I can't see how I could cut them and splice anything into them because they're nipples are basically flush.do you guys have any tricks for how to do that and also guidance for if I can waste it into the 2-in with the shower and then vented back to the 1 and 1/2?

Thanks!!! Love reading all the posts and replies on this site so much knowledge!!
 

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Jadnashua

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I think that they want the 2" line from the shower to be increased to 3" after the WM gets added to it, plus, you'd still need to vent the WM. You could loop it over to the existing vent line, but that would mean crossing over the drain, and if you wanted that all in the wall, probably wouldn't have enough depth. You could also run a new vent up either to the roof, or above the shower (and anything else that may be on that line) and revent it above.
 

Roadman33

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I think that they want the 2" line from the shower to be increased to 3" after the WM gets added to it, plus, you'd still need to vent the WM. You could loop it over to the existing vent line, but that would mean crossing over the drain, and if you wanted that all in the wall, probably wouldn't have enough depth. You could also run a new vent up either to the roof, or above the shower (and anything else that may be on that line) and revent it above.
That 2-in does actually open up into a 3-in in the basement. So just downstream of that it does go to 3-in and then to the sewer. I was thinking of yeah doing the sanity into the 2-in and then venting and running it back over to the 1 and 1/2?
 

Jadnashua

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I'm not a pro, but I think that the 2" would need to become 3" at the point where you connect the two together. FOr that drain, I think the 1.5" vent line is sufficient. Remember, a vent line's horizontal run also needs slope and that you need to go vertical from the trap arm prior to turning it horizontal. You'd want it to go above the riser for the WM, but I"m not positive how high it would need to go.
 

Roadman33

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I'm not a pro, but I think that the 2" would need to become 3" at the point where you connect the two together. FOr that drain, I think the 1.5" vent line is sufficient. Remember, a vent line's horizontal run also needs slope and that you need to go vertical from the trap arm prior to turning it horizontal. You'd want it to go above the riser for the WM, but I"m not positive how high it would need to go.
Thanks!
it wouldn't be too hard to make that 2-in into a 3-in downstream from there but yeah everything would be pretty tight between that stud bay so I'm not sure if the pipes would even fit in there.
 

Roadman33

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Okay, I think I'm just going to take the whole thing apart and reproduce it but turn that sanitary tea and the 2-in the other direction and put it in that stud bay there and my washer hose will reach. Seem like an okay idea?
 

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Reach4

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Roadman33, most of your fittings are butted up against each other. If you have a basement or crawl space, you could start cutting down there. Lots of new stuff would be the easy way. If that last elbow is going into a slab, then that would complicate things.

To flip that santee, where were you thinking of cutting? If there is not access beneath, the easiest way I see is to use a Rambit or "Socket Saver" if the existing santee is glued into the 45, and a Pipe Parana, or other special tool, if the 45 is glued into the santee. I am not a plumber. Maybe there are other alternatives.
 
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