Rehau vs. Uponor?

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Jeff H Young

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I get that and understand the risk. I have done all my own electrical work also over the years, other than main panel I paid electrician to do it.

I know that the shower valves I will probably call a plumber due to the tricky locations.

That said best I can tell reading the Uponor warranty there is nothing that precludes a homeowner from doing it and voiding the warranty.

I see no reason you cant get a certification to install PEX, it takes less than an hour and a 10 year old could pass. I've gotten certs for PEX, Trac pipe corrugated gas lines, underground fusion poly gas lines to name a few . They used to be all free by company reps . you might be able to crash a training session at some plumbing company or supply house. Sometimes they might charge a small fee 25 or 50 bucks tops then you have full warranty and as simple as this stuff is for those with interest you always get something out of it.
 

Weekend Handyman

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Tension on the plastic fittings is one of the main concerns with this. A tile guy froze some penetrations and I offered to fix it. That was a mistake. The pipe had already expanded and had the fitting ready to break. Next one to touch it broke it. I was the next one. Third floor of a hotel 1.25" heating line pipe bursting at 50 psi.
Oh no … that’s a bad day at the office!
 

HDtvkeith

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Been a while and wanted to follow up. I have everything and ready to get started. Decided to pick a few fitting and a stick of 3/4 to test and practice. I have all Uponor pipe, rings and fittings. I am using the M12 tool and was surprise how little time you have to get the fitting on. I read the Uponor install manuals and for the M12 and 3/4 it says 9 expansions. I find I need to do at least 12 to give me any chance of getting the fitting all the way in. A few I get real close the the should, but there is a smidge maybe 1/32 inch off the should. The fitting looks well positioned as the main center barb is far from the edge of the pipe, but I am a bit nervous and wondering if I should shift to PEX-B with cinch clamps or just use B fittings and cinch ring on Uponor to keep the flexibility. There are several areas in am wondering how I am going to maneuver with the too, and get the connect quickly enough. I don’t have the best dexterity in my hands. I tried the one handed method, but still at least 3-4 of the 6 tests I was about 1/32 maybe 1/16 off the shoulder.
 

John Gayewski

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You need to make sure that your expander is fully inserted. The trouble you are describing doesn't happen to me very often. There are times when you need to push harder to get the fitting to seat. When you get into the work I think you'll find it's much harder to crimp fittings in place. Expanding them is much easier.

If you decide to switch I'll gladly buy your m12 expander and dies. I need a set.
 

HDtvkeith

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Thanks I will take some pics in AM so post to make sure I am good. My wife think I am being to anal about making it perfect
 

HDtvkeith

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You need to make sure that your expander is fully inserted. The trouble you are describing doesn't happen to me very often. There are times when you need to push harder to get the fitting to seat. When you get into the work I think you'll find it's much harder to crimp fittings in place. Expanding them is much easier.

If you decide to switch I'll gladly buy your m12 expander and dies. I need a set.

If I did switch I would do cinch and use Boshart Stainless fittings. I have a few tight spots the crimp may be a hassle.

I did follow the Uponor instructions, they say put the tool in without pushing, run it through 9mexpqndsilns and it the pipe is filling in by then,I found running another 3 expansions gave me a little more time. Uponor has a reall gold document that covers all the install scenarios and guidelines.
 
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Jeff H Young

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I understand the concern its been awhle since Ive done pex and longer since the cert training . but I think a 1/16th is actualy withen tolerance but I like them slammed together
 

HDtvkeith

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Here are most of the tests I did and my concern on them not being flush with shoulder. I also have a new Milwaukee pipe cutter I am using and find you really need to be rock steady to get a perfectly flat cut, I find several time it has a very slight angle to it.


1648289308016.jpeg

1648289337606.jpeg

1648289450871.jpeg
 

JohnCT

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I did follow the Uponor instructions, they say put the tool in without pushing

You do have to push a *little* when expanding the pipe. I think what the instructions mean is to not to try to force the pipe onto the expansion head. Done properly, the fitting should easily slide in and butt up against the shoulder stops - that's why they're there.

When doing your expansions, make sure your pipe makes it all the way to the shoulder of the expansion head, then give it another two expansions. Your fittings will easily slide into the pipe up to the fitting stops. Hold it in place for 5 seconds and you're good to move on to the next fitting.

The connection should look like this:

1648307873109.png
 
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JohnCT

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I dont want my joints to look that way but I think they meet tolerance I thought max gap 1/16

Agree, no chance they leak because the sealing barb of the fitting is well inside the pipe, but it looks much better when the pipe is against the stops and it takes no more time to fully seat them.

John
 

HDtvkeith

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So we are piping now (taking lunch break) and they all look perfect. The test fittings I used were Sharkbite pex-a, using the Uponor fittings today were no issues. I also re-greased the M12 as I was not happy with how the grease applied yesterday. I will post some pics later as we are doing the worst spot today and hopefully all down hill from here, or at least easier.
 

HDtvkeith

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Thanks. Eager to get this done. Have another 2 Saturdays of work before I can cut over the water to the new pipes.
 

Jeff H Young

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I like using what we call trisulators in the holes dont want the plastic rubbing on wood edges , just my feeling. looks good1
 
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