Reducing from 2 inch Main

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Dennis Gillaspie, Jul 17, 2021.

  1. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    My home is a manufactured home on a basement. The main water line coming into the house is 2 inch PVC. It is reduced to 3/4 at the entry right after a 2 inch ball valve main shut off. From there, 3/4 inch PVC runs the length of the house (60 feet) to the main hookup to the home's polybutylene plumbing system. I'm in the process of converting all the poly to PEX. I'm also wanting to replace the 60 feet of PVC with PEX. My question: is there a standard on reducing from 2 inch to 3/4 inch? Or should I reduce to 1 inch (PEX) for the main throughout the house and reduce to 3/4 or 1/2 for the hookups to sinks, heaters, etc?

    I'm including a photo of the 2 inch coming in with the ball valve and the horrible reducing job the previous person did.

    Dennis Gillaspie

    water_main.jpg
     
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    I would run 1" after the shutoff valve. and consider changing the shutoff to brass. I'm not a fan of the plastic valves.

    I typically run 3/4" for cold on a bathroom, and 1/2" for the hot.
    1/2" for kitchen sink and washer.
     
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  4. WorthFlorida

    WorthFlorida The wife is still training me.

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  5. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    I notice that transitioning from PVC to brass in 2" is rather pricey. Is reducing from 2" to 1" before the shutoff okay. Then transitioning from 1" PVC to 1" brass?
     
  6. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    LOL! I know. The reducing effort was quite a thing to see when I first saw it. Thanks for noticing the coupler problem. I will definitely fix that.
     
  7. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    I notice that transitioning from PVC to brass in 2" is rather pricey. Is reducing from 2" to 1" before the shutoff okay. Then transitioning from 1" PVC to 1" brass?
     
  8. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

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    I can't see everything but likely would cut the 2 inch back, glue a 2 inch 90 on looking up, then a 2x1 slip bushing with a PVC sch 80 nipple cut in half glued in, screw the new valve on and run!
     
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  9. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    Jeff, thanks. Wouldn't there need to be a short piece of PVC between the elbow and the slip bushing?
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2021 at 9:25 AM
  10. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/220-060-2-x-6-schedule-80-pvc-nipple.html is a schedule 80 6 inch nipple.

    If you cut it in half, you will have a 3-inch pipe with threads on one side, and unthreaded on the other.

    Maybe a shorter nipple would serve better. https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-80-pvc/nipples.html?size_in_inches=32

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-861-020-2-PVC-Schedule-80-Male-Street-Adapter would glue into a 2-inch elbow and provide the 2 inch threads, instead of cutting a nipple. It would let you use a big wrench on its hex to counteract torque.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2021 at 9:25 AM
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  11. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    Thanks. Now I get it.
     
  12. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    Is it acceptable to use an inside connector on something like this, in case the original 2" pipe has to be trimmed back too much to accept a new coupler? See the image attached.
    water_Shutoff.jpg
     
  13. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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  14. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

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    pretty much what Im talking about ... I think its a fairly clean way
     
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  15. Dennis Gillaspie

    Dennis Gillaspie New Member

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    Does this make better sense?
    water_Shutoff2.jpg
     
  16. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Street 90 small end is the same OD as a schedule 40 or 80 pipe. That type of connection can also be called "spigot".

    "Inside" glues into a schedule 40 pipe, and not into a schedule 80, and not into a hub. Would it match the inside of a "spigot" port on the fitting you showed? I am not sure, but I don't think you can rely on it.

    To glue a hub onto a 2 inch pipe, I think you need 1.5 inches of pipe free.

    https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#extender has an "inside" end and a pipe-sized end.

    What I think somebody could do is to cut off the pipe to the left of the coupler, use a "socket saver"/Rambit/Reed type tool, and then glue that street 90 into the coupling.

    https://terrylove.com/forums/index....kitchen-sink-need-advice-on-waste-line.62863/
    https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/abs-repair-remove-pipe-from-fitting.49142/
    https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/produc...an-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/
    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-J44200-2-Socket-Saver


    I have used none of these. Maybe you would like somebody who has experience to do this reaming.

    The Reed CRP200 looks good to me ~$40 via ebay. The Reed PPR200 is the more professional that Terry would use. Both are more substantial than the Rambit and other cheaper offerings.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2021 at 9:41 AM
  17. Jeff H Young

    Jeff H Young In the Trades

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    I don't see a need for a coupling , or the rambit.
     
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