Recommended Flux and Solder for Beginner?

[JaCkaL829]

Hello all,

I've been reading up, and learning more and more as I've been remodeling parts of my older home in Northern, NJ. I have great respect for plumbers, and I would like to learn/acquire some basic plumbing skills to avoid calling my plumber for everything. He is a great guy, but he is not cheap and he is looking to retire soon (He is 78). I'm aware of my limits, I don't expect to be able to install a furnace in a weekend, but one thing that has always intrigued me was sweating cooper joints for water supply lines. I'm on the last stage of my basement remodel in which I would like to cut out a large section of older galvanized water supply lines and replace with cooper. I have cooper everywhere else throughout my house, and I've read quite a few articles advising to remove galvanized water supply lines as they corrode from within.

The joints I will need to sweat together are in the ceiling joists (unfinished basement). This is a job I initially wanted to hire a plumber, but I'm gaining confidence to try it myself. I helped a family member last weekend who is actually re-doing a bathroom. The sweating of new cooper pipes didn't look terribly difficult, although his joints probably weren't the best. I later found out that his solder was 50/50 and I'm not sure about the flux.

I've read about the legalities of sweating pipes, and it seems the only thing LEGAL is to use lead free solder, and water-soluable flux. The solder isn't the issue, it's more the fact that there are lots of reviews online saying the water-soluble flux is incredibly difficult to work with.

Prior to starting my job I would like to practice and get comfortable with what I'm using. I have a box full of supplies from my brother in law who just gave it to me, including MAP tanks, a decent torch, and a roll of lead free solder oatey silver safe. I was thinking I'll just get flux, not realizing how many different kinds there are.

I would like to try a water-soluble flux first. I'm not as worried about code, as I am about excess flux causing damage to a joint in the future. I've read lots of reviews and posts on forums; and I think I will order Everflux or Nokorode Aqua Flux and Worthington Solder or Silver Brite solder. The price isn't a huge concern for me as I don't plan on doing this everyday, it's more a skill I would like to learn in case I need to make a repair, or replace a hot water heater.

I'm just wondering if these combos would be good for a novice just learning how to sweat? Last week I did a couple joints myself, and I'm aware of the importance of prepping a joint. I purchased that 4-in-1 tool from Home Depot to score the pipe and fittings. I would like to practice a little before attempting any repair/work.

I also know people say process is more important than product, I'm just looking for the best product so that I can develop my process. Everything I read online says the box store products are inferior products compared to others.

Sorry for the long thread, I spent all last night reading about different fluxes and never though it would be that extensive.

 

[Jadnashua]

Use the lead-free solder. Pick up a tinning flux...this is a flux with powdered solder in it. The hassle with water based fluxes is if you overheat the joint (well, it can happen with the older fluxes, too, but at a higher temp), it will burn, leave a deposit, and be nearly impossible to make a good joint. With a tinning flux, you can see when the joint is hot enough because the powdered solder in it melts, cluing you into that things are hot enough, and you can add what you need to complete the joint.

Don't burn the house down up in the joist bays! Use a soldering shield, have a spray bottle of water, and a fire extinguisher available and hope you don't need them. Important tips: cleanliness is important, you cannot solder a pipe that has any water left in it, heat the fitting (mostly) rather than just the pipe, always have at least one end open (maybe a valve) so the hot air has a place to go otherwise, it might just blow a channel through your liquid solder prior to it solidifying.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[MACPLUMB]

for your work I would suggest using PEX screw male or female adps, as needed no flame inside the joists, much safer also
almost all Plumbers are installing pex these days,

 

[Reach4]

I've read about the legalities of sweating pipes, and it seems the only thing LEGAL is to use lead free solder, and water-soluable flux.

I am skeptical of your flux claim.

I was impressed with Oatey No. 95 and Oatey lead-free "silver solder". They seemed to work as well or better than the old acid flux and lead solder for me.

 

[MACPLUMB]

LACO FLUX, AND BRIDGET SOLDER

 

[JaCkaL829]

I am skeptical of your flux claim.

I was impressed with Oatey No. 95 and Oatey lead-free "silver solder". They seemed to work as well or better than the old acid flux and lead solder for me.

I'm just going by what I've been reading for potable water supply lines.

I actually went to Lowes today and picked up both nokorode regular and nokorode aqua flux. They also had worthington sterling silver solder so I got that as well. I practiced this evening, just getting used to getting a good setup and flow going. Being organized and prep is defin key. I almost felt like I needed a third arm lol. I made about 6-7 joints with the mapp gas and using the aqua flux, it seemed to go ok, solder defin pulled into the joint, and I practiced wiping it clean. I used both solders Oatey lead free and the sterling, and both seemed good although the sterling seemed to flow a little better (or maybe it's just in my hand) unfortunately I can't tell if my joints are leakproof since I'm doing random joints, but it looks ok.

I know the true test will be when sweating pipes with moisture in the lines, but I felt pretty good about the start thus far.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'd like to stick with copper at this time. And I will defin be putting metal sheets that are wet to block the wood joists.

 

[Jadnashua]

You will fail if your pipes are wet! Until you've boiled all of the water out, it won't get hotter than boiling, which isn't hot enough to melt the solder...plus, the steam generated, if the pipe is closed, can blow a hole through the liquid solder, creating a leak.