Recommended closet flange and a new tub (update need install help)

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ivwshane

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Hello, long time lurker.

I'm doing a bathroom remodel and I'll be laying down another layer of plywood for tile. Before I do that I need to raise the closet flange and redo the drain assembly for the new tub.

I don't have access underneath and my waste pipe is 4" ABS. The plan was to use an inside diameter cutter to remove the existing flange, add a coupling and extend the pipe above the floor where I will cut it flush with the new finished floor and then add the flange to it. Is this how I should do it? What type of flange should I use? A 4" in 3"? A 4"? Or a glueless one like this:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chie...ing-Inside-Fit-Closet-Flange-886-GA/202313197

I have a Toto toilet cst743e.


For the tub drain assembly I have seen kits from home depot but they look like they use cheap plastic, not ABS. Is there a recommendation on what I should use? My pipes are 2" ABS. The tub is steel.
 
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ABS is a gift from god, being soft and easy to cut and do whatever you fancy to it.

Tear out the existing floor, and then re-plywood it.

Or do nothing, and use push-tites that will press into that existing I.D. of the old flange.
 

ivwshane

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Ok thanks. I wasn't sure if the "push tites" were recommended or not.

What about the tub drain assembly?
 

ivwshane

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Am I correct that I cannot use compression fittings for the tub drain assembly if I will not have an access panel?

If so how would you guys go about replacing and updating my setup? I have no idea if I'll be able to cut the ABS before the p-trap because access is very limited.

image.jpeg
 

MKS

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From what I have read yes solvent weld bath tub drain and overflow.
If you open the floor to the right you can cut the drain there. Not sure there is room anywhere else.
Then build the new drain to fit the tub.
And with a good deal of patience fit it up.
I think there would be a lot of trial and error.
I believe one of the pros here has written about how to locate this assembly when you have little or no access.
 

Terry

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For the tub drain, I assemble the overflow and the shoe on the tub first, then glue on the two sections of pipe with a tee.
I then remove the assembly, and install with p-trap in the floor. You will need the center measurement, and the height of the shoe where it meets the tub.
You may need to open flooring and access the pipe in the next bay if you can't find a good location to cut and glue.
I also use a RamBit to drill out pipe from fittings, and having that means you can do it in the space you have.

For the toilet flange, you can also use an inside 3" closet flange from Sioux Chief. This way you can cut flush with the floor and glue the inside fitting.
My normal install though is to use the hub fitting and use a space to bring it to the correct height under the flange. I don't use spacers on top.
 

ivwshane

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For the tub drain, I assemble the overflow and the shoe on the tub first, then glue on the two sections of pipe with a tee.
I then remove the assembly, and install with p-trap in the floor. You will need the center measurement, and the height of the shoe where it meets the tub.
You may need to open flooring and access the pipe in the next bay if you can't find a good location to cut and glue.
I also use a RamBit to drill out pipe from fittings, and having that means you can do it in the space you have.

For the toilet flange, you can also use an inside 3" closet flange from Sioux Chief. This way you can cut flush with the floor and glue the inside fitting.
My normal install though is to use the hub fitting and use a space to bring it to the correct height under the flange. I don't use spacers on top.

Hub fitting? I'm not familiar with that term?

My concern with cutting the floor even more would be causing the floor to have less super then it already does. If I were to cut a hole into the floor can I fix the hole by screwing the missing piece to a 2x4 that is only screwed into the surrounding plywood? I have a truss floor btw.
 

Jadnashua

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A hub is the flared out section of a fitting that a straight pipe fits into. The RamBit Terry mentioned is designed to literally cut out the pipe from the hub so you can then reuse it by inserting a new pipe in there. Can be a big time saver and make certain jobs much easier. Some fittings are hard to find and can be expensive. A Rambit allows you to reuse it where prudent.
 

MKS

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Your inside diameter cutter is probably the same type tool Terry is calling a ram bit.
So this tool removes the pipe, male from the hub, female.
There is an elbow or closet bend then appropriate size pipe then a closet flange that sits on the finish floor.
I doubt there is anything wrong with a abs tub drain and overflow. Installed well.
You could use the ram bit as Terry mentioned and not open the floor.
The mission coupling may give you some flexibility if you did open the floor. When it comes to making the final drain connection .
It would take basic carpentry skills but the resulting floor would be as good or better. Not a problem just more time and materials.
 

ivwshane

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A hub is the flared out section of a fitting that a straight pipe fits into. The RamBit Terry mentioned is designed to literally cut out the pipe from the hub so you can then reuse it by inserting a new pipe in there. Can be a big time saver and make certain jobs much easier. Some fittings are hard to find and can be expensive. A Rambit allows you to reuse it where prudent.


Thanks for the explanation. I was thinking about cutting the p-trap for the tub and then using an inside diameter saw to cut off the hub and install a new p-trap and drain assembly using a coupler (hopefully I'm using the correct terms here).

Does using the rambit maintain the integrity of the ABS?
 

ivwshane

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Your inside diameter cutter is probably the same type tool Terry is calling a ram bit.
So this tool removes the pipe, male from the hub, female.
There is an elbow or closet bend then appropriate size pipe then a closet flange that sits on the finish floor.
I doubt there is anything wrong with a abs tub drain and overflow. Installed well.
You could use the ram bit as Terry mentioned and not open the floor.
The mission coupling may give you some flexibility if you did open the floor. When it comes to making the final drain connection .
It would take basic carpentry skills but the resulting floor would be as good or better. Not a problem just more time and materials.

The tool I think terry was talking about was this:
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/rambit-plastic-fitting-saver-tool.html
 
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ivwshane

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I believe you need the tool Terry suggests, it's what I was thinking of. It makes the hub usable again.
This is a great challenge if you are not practiced in it. Be patient.

Yep! Sounds like a plan!

Thanks guys!
 

ivwshane

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Another quick question.

The bathroom drain assembly pipe has an outside diameter of 2". To use the ram bit, do I get the 2" version or the 1 1/2" version?
 

Jadnashua

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I'm pretty sure they are sized by the pipe sizing...a 2" od, is 1.5" pipe, and would take a 1.5" RamBit. That should be explained on their website.
 

MKS

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If you live near a non big box plumbing store you could visit them for the right size tool.
 

ivwshane

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Its ok I figured it out. The tool removes the pipe that is the same size as the tool regardless of the pipes inside diameter. So a 2" tool will remove a 2" pipe from the hub.
 
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