Rebuild pressure relief valve on well system?

[Mooch91]

Hi all,

I seem to need to replace my well system pressure relief valve at least once per year. They all develop a slight, intermittent drip. This past time around I purchased a bit better model (Zurn adjustable) and it is dripping after 6 months.

My question is - is there any way to open these and clean them out? I believe the dripping is a result of a little seepage and buildup of hard water on the valve seals. This is one of my past valves which I’ve soaked in 30% vinegar.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Valveman]

The prv setting is probably just to close to the off setting of the pressure switch. Remove the cap on top and tighten the adjustment on the prv until it stops leaking.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mooch91]

The prv setting is probably just to close to the off setting of the pressure switch. Remove the cap on top and tighten the adjustment on the prv until it stops leaking.

@Valveman
I bumped the new Zurn up to 100 psi (vs the 75 psi default) when I installed it, and it’s leaking after 6 months. No indication from my pressure gauge that I’m getting anything over 60 psi on the system.

 

[Mooch91]

Picture of the upstream side of the Zurn valve after about 6 months of service.

 

[Valveman]

Sorry for the delay. The green stuff is oxidized copper like on the Statue of Liberty. That is what happens to the low leaded brass, which makes some things fail. I do not think it is enough to have caused a problem yet. Usually if a pressure relief valve is popping off when it shouldn't it is because of having more than 1 check valve in the system. If you have a check valve above ground, gut it or remove it.

 

[Mooch91]

Sorry for the delay. The green stuff is oxidized copper like on the Statue of Liberty. That is what happens to the low leaded brass, which makes some things fail. I do not think it is enough to have caused a problem yet. Usually if a pressure relief valve is popping off when it shouldn't it is because of having more than 1 check valve in the system. If you have a check valve above ground, gut it or remove it.

I think the drip I was getting might have been from some water hammer I was experiencing. I think I had the pressure switch set too close to the air bladder pressure in the tank, and when the pump would turn on there was a quick "bang" on the system. I've since adjusted and the "bang" has stopped.

My pressure tank is set to 38 psi and my pressure switch was at what I thought was 40 psi. I'm using the local pressure gauge to set the pressure switch (difficult to read the analog gauge accurately) and I think it was actually dropping fairly close to 38 psi before the pump was coming on. So I increased it by 1-2 psi and it's been working great.

 

[Mooch91]

By the way - I was able to rebuild one or two of the valves I have:

Remove valve from system.
Take hex or serrated end cap off.
Unthread the internal adjustment disc - counting the number of turns to fully remove.
Pull out spring and seal.
Wire brush internal brass parts to remove corrosion.
Clean rubber seal of any oxidation.
Apply thin film of silicone grease to rubber seal.
Reinstall seal and spring.
Reinstall internal adjustment disc - turning it back in the same number of turns required to remove it.
Reinstall hex/serrated end cap.

I couldn't do this with the Zurn relief valve which has the adjustment knob on it; couldn't figure out how to remove the knob to disassemble.

 

[Valveman]

I think the drip I was getting might have been from some water hammer I was experiencing. I think I had the pressure switch set too close to the air bladder pressure in the tank, and when the pump would turn on there was a quick "bang" on the system. I've since adjusted and the "bang" has stopped.

My pressure tank is set to 38 psi and my pressure switch was at what I thought was 40 psi. I'm using the local pressure gauge to set the pressure switch (difficult to read the analog gauge accurately) and I think it was actually dropping fairly close to 38 psi before the pump was coming on. So I increased it by 1-2 psi and it's been working great.

That can cause a water hammer. But a check valve above ground causes way more hammer than that.