Rear outlet toilet splash problem

[gawalpert]

After installing a rear outlet jet assist Kohler, followed by a jet assist American Standard, and now a Crane (gravity, rear outlet) toilet, I always find a few, very small splashes on the toilet seat itself after every flush. The toilet in in a renovated kitchen and connects to the old sink vertical pipe outlet pipe through a Tee connection rather than a more traditional "Y" style connection.

I have tried adjusting the inlet pressure, the amount of water in the tank, and the number of holes putting water into the bowl, without success.


Any help on eliminating the splashes would be appreciated (drives my wife crazy).

GAW

 

[Scott]

Splash-outs are typically caused by a misdirected jet hole or partially obstructed rim outlet as opposed to water pressure or flush volume.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cass]

There is not much you can do about it.

Try closing the cover cover or keeping seat and cover up B 4 flushing. It wont stop the splashing but may prevent it from landing on the seat it self.

 

[GrumpyPlumber]

Relative to topic, I saw a news report on public toilets with flushometer valves.
They flushed it with a special dye in the bowl, then turned off the lights, turned on a black light and showed small droplets had gone as far as several feet to the adjacent wall from the bowl.
Lesson, keep the seat down when flushing anything stronger than a tank type toilet.

 

[Terry]

When I first started selling pressure assist toilets, that was a common complaint among the women.
They don't wear pants as often as men, so they felt the spray on their legs.

The guys at CR wear pants and long smocks. They wouldn't have any idea of spray or know to be concerned about it.

The newer models do seem to be better though.

 

[gawalpert]

What if, then,

I take out the rear outlet toilet completely, elevate the throne so that I can put in a Toto Ultramax or Carlyle or the like, and exhaust the system through the existing Tee connector (that was being used for the rear outlet ) through a normal trap to the vertical exhaust pipe Tee connection. For a normal mount and connection, I've seen no splashing at all for the Toto's. Is there any reason to think that the Tee connection will be slower, and somhow cause splashing out of the bowl?

GAW

 

[Terry]

What size pipe are you using for the toilet drain?

Most kitchens I run into have a 2" or smaller drain.
Toilets take a 3" or 4"
If the tee is a sanitary tee, it should be fine.
Are you sure you want to raise the floor up to install a floor mounted toilet?

 

[Geniescience]

install a wall hung bowl on an in-wall carrier. A Duravit Darling or a Caroma.

david

 

[gawalpert]

Reply to Terry

The vertical line is big enough, 3", since it serves a large apartment building.

However, the "tee" is currently a standard tee, not a sanitary Tee. So does it still work, or am I chasing the impossible solution (since I do not think the building will let me switch it to a different tee).

As to elevating the floor, I do not see any other solution since the current floor is cast concrete.

GAW

 

[Geniescience]

how far is the toilet from the "old sink vertical pipe", how many inches?

david

 

[gawalpert]

Reply to David

The back flow toilet backs up to the wall and the vertical pipe is in the wall, right behind the toilet, with its outer wall about 2 1/2 inches from the wall suface and toilet outlet. The replacement, and elevated, bottom drain toilet would then be a "normal" distance from the wall, with the vertical pipe right behind it. I hope that's clear.

GAW

 

[Geniescience]

sounds like the toilet is WAY too close to that vertical, so no matter what Tee is used, you have water not able to change direction and rush down the pipe fast enough to make room for the next batch or "wave" so that might explain why there is so much backsplashing, like as if there were an internal wave pushing back against and inside the outgoing water that then kinda Tsunami-like forces water still swirling in the bowl to hop back out at you.

plumbers will tell you more.

david

 

[gawalpert]

Reply to David

If I move the toilet a bit away from the vertical, but still use a standard tee (not a sanitary Tee) will that stop the splashing? That is the real issue for me, I think. Any wisdom here?

 

[gawalpert]

Still looking for a bit of wisdom

I'd appreciate any more advice here and most importantly the importance of the sanitary tee that Terry suggests.

GAW

 

[Geniescience]

since you described it as "...connects to the old sink vertical pipe outlet pipe through a Tee connection rather than a more traditional "Y" style connection..." I wonder if you should just post a picture.

That will certainly get noticed and commented on.


david

 

[gawalpert]

Pictures

Sorry, no pictures are available. The wall is currently closed up and before opening it, I need to try to understnd what I'm getting in to.

 

[Geniescience]

plumbers know minimum distances. I'll repeat this for them:

The back flow toilet backs up to the wall and the vertical pipe is in the wall, right behind the toilet, with its outer wall about 2 1/2 inches from the wall surface and toilet outlet. The replacement, and elevated, bottom drain toilet would then be a "normal" distance from the wall, with the vertical pipe right behind it.

So coming out the back spud of your rear outlet toilet, you have a microscopic stub of a pipe going into a Tee, and the whole distance is less than THREE inches, including the distance the Tee's arm is.

Is that less than the minimum permitted? Rushing flushing water needs to know.

david